tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25263698271151979992024-03-13T08:18:32.520-07:00Aimless In AfricaUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger76125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-85592335957887809512013-07-03T20:27:00.004-07:002013-07-03T20:27:34.687-07:00Out of Africa<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">We are now safely back in Melbourne and our African adventure is over. The
trip was a wonderful experience, totally awesome. It was a once in a lifetime
experience, the time commitment was huge and it is not something one would do
twice. Which is a pity, as it would be good to apply the lessons learnt and
“do” the trip again.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Vital statistics include:</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">According
to the Odometer, we had covered 90,968 km since we started on 5/9/2011. The GPS
shows ~ 4,000 km more. This may be due to inaccuracies in the odometer, plus we
used slightly oversized tyres for a time. Also we had hired vehicles in Morocco
and South Africa and went on tours in Chad and Tanzania. So, our overall kms
probably approached 100,000.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We used ~
13,022<i> l</i> fuel, giving an overall
usage of 7 km/l. So, assuming our record keeping was accurate, this was not too
bad at all. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">48 countries, including 5 in Europe. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Our initial thoughts were to try and visit every country on the African
continent (not the Islands). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We decided it was too hard to get visas for Equatorial Guinea, there was
nothing really to see there and apparently the authorities are not all that
welcoming to Overlanders. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We gave Nigeria a miss as we wanted to drive around Lake Chad. Also,
there were serious security issues on there. (Ray has previously visited
Nigeria on a number of occasions for work).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">There was a coup in Guinea Bissau a few days before we were due to go
there and they closed the borders.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">It was too hard to get into Eritrea. You needed a travel permit from the
moment you crossed the border and this was only available in the capital!?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Lesotho, we ran out of time!</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We left Australia on the 14<sup>th</sup> August 2011 and arrived
back in Melbourne on 22<sup>nd</sup> May 2013. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Africa musings…<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We left Australia with the thought we would have a great time, see
fantastic scenery and enjoy the game parks, which we did. What we did not
anticipate were the wonderful people we met along the way and the new friendships.
The interest in our trip, the assistance we received in all manner and people’s
generosity were stunning. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Of course the biggest thanks go our family and friends in Australia who
keep the boring administrative tasks under control. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">For us it seems that Africa remains a fragile
continent. The economic/financial press are now writing glowing reports of the
continent. We are probably more pessimistic. With most African countries </span><span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">there remains
significant levels of corruption. The impact is most serious at the political
level: theft, fixing of contracts, siphoning off revenues, cronyism &
nepotism etc. With the police and government officials there is endemic and
continuing petty corruption/extortion. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">A further serious issue is the population growth. This seems
to be at its worst in Ethiopia where we heard that the average family had 7
children. However, on most of the continent, there appeared to be large numbers
of children. Unfortunately, most of the kids will be born into a life of hunger
and poverty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The final negative is the volume of litter in most places.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Route</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We are reasonably happy with the route and timing we took. We seem to
have seen/visited most of the highlights etc. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Chatting to other overlanders, it seems that along the west side, the
route south to north is easier from an officialdom perspective, than north to
south.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">At the start we could have left southern Africa a week or two earlier
and missed all the wet season in the Congos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">In hindsight, we spent way too long in Cameroon. The tourist hype does
not match the situation on the ground.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">In west Africa, we were a bit worried about the wet season as we went
north and probably rushed a things a bit from Ghana to Senegal. Reading
travel blogs meant we overestimated the difficulty of driving from Guinea to Senegal.
This turned out to be quite an easy road. The non-overlander blogs seem to
think it is necessary to make the trips sound difficult and have lots of drama.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We were rushed in Southern Tanzania and Zambia. It would have been good
to have had another 6 – 8 weeks in these areas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We used <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">T4A (Tracks for Africa) in our Garmin 60CSx. We found this map set to be
invaluable. The power cable for the unit failed towards the end of the trip.
Luckily the unit can also be supplied by a normal USB connection<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Garmap Africa maps in the Kenwood mounted unit and a Nuvi. These were
nice to have. As commented on previously, the Kenwood unit is not all that
good. The maps performed well, in the unit. The Nuvi was OK, but its internal
power supply failed toward the end and we could not charge the unit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We used maps freely available off the internet for Morocco and Tunisia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We purchased a mapset for Egypt off the internet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Bribery.</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We did not start out with any plan <b>not</b>
to pay bribes, rather to resist to a sensible point. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We gave a couple of policemen some food in Angola.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Ray had money grabbed from his hand by the police in DRC – but this does
not count. We had to pay the officer who took our statements after the crash $
20, but apparently this is standard practice. Note: all requests for a bribe
start at $ 250 in DRC!</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">By our standards we did pay a bribe to a policeman in Benin (we were
100% in the wrong, it was late in the day and we did not want the hassle of
messing around for a few hours). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We did give the immigration police in Togo a can of coke to rush us
through.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Entering Burkina Faso from Mali we sat for 3 hours refusing to pay a
charge until the local post manager gave way. It would have been a lot easier
to pay, but we resisted because they annoyed us.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The paperwork fixer at Aswan in Egypt forced us to pay to have our
carnet stamped.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Normally we would plead ignorance, make the person who wanted the bribe
to repeat the request e.g. we could not hear, speak French etc at which point
the request normally fades. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Personal Security:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We tried to avoid places where tourists are targeted and to use common
sense. We also ensured we had up to date information. Probably DRC was our
worst experience.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Other places we did not go to:</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Nigeria; others have driven through the north of Nigeria and had no
issues</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Nth Niger. You can go to Agadez but need a full escort to go to the Air
Mountains. We saw no need to see another desert town but would have loved to
have seen the mountains, however we had tyre issues at this time plus the $$ of
course. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">the road out of Niger to Gao (we drove 60% of the way up it),</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Nth Mali,</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Guinea Bissau due to the coup </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Sth Senegal as there is an active independence movement. We did have a
couple of unpleasant experiences with rastas in Senegal.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Southern Algeria, we were very, very keen to do this, but the security
situation was just too bad</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The desert/oasis route in Egypt. This was probably OK, but locals warned
us off</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Anywhere off the main, tarmac road in South Sudan</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Somalia – we did go to Somliland and it was safe. The religious
intolerance was a bit off-putting, particularly being criticized while walking
in the street.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Eastern DRC.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Theft</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We had 2 towels stolen when we left them out to dry in Angola.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Our camera was stolen by a game ranger who we had allowed to ride in the
cab in CAR</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">A collapsible shovel and wheel brace were stolen in the market in
N’Djamena</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Don’t mention Spain.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The vehicle was broken into beside the security hut in a hotel in Tobruk.
A gas lighter and torch were taken. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">So overall, not too much was stolen. When it was, it was probably
because we let our guard down. We went to considerable lengths to try and make
theft difficult . Most items in the vehicle were locked and not visible from
the outside (e.g. our tray had a compartment where tryes were locked etc). This
added weight and we still wonder if all the precautions were needed.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Probably the main reason not too much was stolen is because most folks
are fundamentally honest.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Only the camera with the pictures of Dzanga Bai hurts. There were a
number of occasions when there was opportunity and nothing went missing and on
at least one occasion, a stolen item was returned.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Vehicle</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We were happy with our choice of vehicle and overall set-up. Toyota has
a good range of service centers throughout Africa. CFAO in west Africa is a
stand out. Their service is excellent. Not much went wrong, so we did not
struggle for spare parts. We needed a new rim in Niger and the local
CFAO/Toyota had one in stock.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Local mechanics have a good understanding of the Toyota and so could fix
any minor niggles e.g. the fuel leaks (which seem to have resulted from the
fuel return line being pinched between the vehicle and the new rear 150 <i>l</i> fuel tank, probably when the new tank
was installed)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Suspension</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">: the old
man emu suspension has held up all the way through the trip - very well.
However, the Firestone airbags installed by OppositeLock at Mile End in
Adelaide failed very early in the trip. We think this contributed massively to
the ongoing brakes and tyre issues we have had. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We were
disappointed when the rear axle housing cracked </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">in Morocco and we had to have some serious work done to fix these cracks.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Tyres </span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">were an
ongoing hassle. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Any blog reader will know our thoughts on the BFGoodrich tyres. We found
them to be very poor for our application. We had many wall failures (bubbles in
the walls) and a large number of punctures. Other tyres did not give the same
issues. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Our original BFGoodrich 4x4, LT
All Terrain tyres failed after a short time in Angola. From then on we could
not buy new tyres and the 2<sup>nd</sup> hand car tyres were not really up
to the task. The Dunlop tyres held up very well, until the steel was showing
through the rubber.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> <span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We could
only buy BFGoodrich in Spain (where it was essential to get new tyres) and
again in Egypt. We finally managed to get non BFGoodrich in Kenya and South
Africa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">In
hindsight, maybe the all-terrain tread was too aggressive and caught on
embedded stones protruding from a road surface. We probably did not do
sufficient off road driving to justify an all-terrain tread.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Brakes;</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> we have
used a lot of rear brake sets (at a guess 7 sets) . This maybe due to our
weight and using brakes originally designed for 3 tonnes to stop 4 tonnes! The
good news was with all the Toyota service centers, replacement parts were not
an issue.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">ARB Diff Lockers;</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> both front and rear. Actually, we hardly used these. Maybe it is our
driving technique, but even when both the front & back are locked, the
power still goes to the end of least resistance and so you still get some wheel
spin. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Diff and gear box breather extensions</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> seemed to have worked well. We replaced the oil on
a regular basis and it never looked as though it had water in it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The<b> vehicle winch</b>. Not used in anger. Very
rarely is there a tree where you need it. There may have been one or 2 times
when, if people had not been around to assist, it may have come in useful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Vehicle
electrics: The main battery (from Battery City, marine quality) failed after 12
months and we fitted a standard Toyota battery.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> <b>Ctek D250S</b> battery isolator and
charger. <b>2<sup>nd</sup> (Optima)</b>
battery fitted. <b>Hella driving lights</b>.
No issues with any of these.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Kenwood GPS</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> and general entertainment system. This was a big disappointment. It was
very temperamental and often disconnected from the iPod.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Rear parking sensors</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> did not like the mist & rain and so gave a
false reading under these conditions<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Reversing camera</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> worked well. It suffered from a loose connection from time to time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Tyredog tyre monitoring system</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> worked well. The batteries lasted the advertised
12 months and Tyredog sent us replacements. They also replaced a faulty sensor.
We would recommend this system. The system saved us from driving on low
pressure or leaking tyres on a number of occasions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Bonnet & head light protectors</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> and side window windshields all well worthwhile.
They were chipped in a few places but protected the lights.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Internal roof console was good</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">, but we installed way too many 12 V cigarette
lighter points. 2 would have been plenty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Seat covers</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> are essential. They need to be easily removable for cleaning!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Window tinting</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> should have been darker.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">150 litre long-range fuel tank was</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> really not needed. The standard 90 + 90 would be
plenty. The trick is to ask around to find the people who have fuel. Often it
is not obvious. As per the comment above, the installation of the 150 l tank was
probably faulty and caused the many fuel leaks we had. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The <b>fridge in the front cabin</b> was a real
winner. However, it seemed to work best when there were some frozen items in
it. Fortunately, we had a freezer in the other fridge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">ARB roof rack</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> was great<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Custom <b>steel tray/cupboard unit,</b> as you would
expect, held up very well. It protected us in the DRC crash and when we slipped
in the mud in Gabon. Also it provided good protection from theft. However, the
issue of theft was probably not as great as we imagined prior to leaving Oz. We
could probably have cut out a few 100 kg by reducing this aspect<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The unit is probably massively heavy and
contributed to the tyre and suspension issues. Maybe we should have used aluminium
– surprisingly, we found lots of places that could weld aluminium. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 36pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The caches that hold the under tray draw were
a weak point and failed, often. We did a modification on this in Morocco.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Honda <b>generato</b>r was used in anger for the
accommodation (when we had earthing issues after the DRC crash) but was not
needed for any vehicle problems.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The <b>water treatment system</b> worked very well
– we did not get any water-borne illnesses. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">4 x underslung tool boxes,</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"> we lost one in the DRC crash. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The 2
permanently wired <b>ARB compressors</b> in
one of the tool boxes were OK. The idea of permanently mounted, ready to use
compressors is worthwhile. But, this may not be the best configuration. The
diff locker compressor gave off a little oil every time the engine started, so
the compartment was quite messy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Spares</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">: we took
very few spares parts. Mainly because we did not know how to use them! We took
spare fuel & oil filters, which we brought back home. We purchased a spare
set of rear brake pads along the way. We had a collection of fuses, globes,
various nuts & bolts (including some threaded bar and nuts, Bars leak etc.)
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We did use a few nuts and bolts, a lot of cord (to
assist others, for clothes lines). With the fuel leaks, we used a number of
Jubilee clips. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 36pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We carried a set of spanners, screw drivers, pliers
etc. These were needed as a lot of the local mechanics have very limited tools.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Trayon <b>camping unit</b> was overall good. We were
fortunate that the weather only forced us to spend time in the unit on 2 or 3
occasions. We spent most of the time outside.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The
electrics<b>: Ctek M300 battery charger,
1,000 W inverter, marine quality circuit breaker panel </b>(not fuses)<b>, 120 amp hr deep cycle battery</b> (red
River ??)<b> </b> all worked well. The only issue we had was
with the earthing connection. It took some time to work out why the batteries
were not holding charge, but it turned out to be the earthing. Maybe the
Inverter was overkill - we could have done with a lot smaller unit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 2cm; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The <b>additional hold down points</b> we
installed to keep the Trayon unit in position were successful, and necessary.
The unit did not move substantially on the tray.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 2cm; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We did
not really use the accommodation unit sound system as we had iPods, radio,
speakers etc)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Secure
compartment with safe worked well.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The
canvas did not hold up all that well and remains very hard/ impossible to pin
down when wet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The water
storage system is not user friendly at all. The inlet is way too small and hard
to put a hose in. The outlet is plastic and the design means it needs to be
bent every time it is used and so it failed. This necessitated moving the whole
accommodation unit to get at the connection and mend it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The
chemical toilet was not commissioned! We could have used the space for other
items. Generally we camped at places with a toilet. For blokes, it is not that
hard to find a place for some “incidental stops” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Solar
panels - unfortunately, we seemed to have purchased panels that need direct
sunlight to perform well. We should have researched this a bit better before we
started. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Camping
Equipment: we were disappointed with some of the camping equipment, in
particular the Colman branded stuff was generally corroded by the end of the
trip (including the “Stainless steel” cutlery) and we left most of it in Arica<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We took 4 x cutlery & (melamine) plates. That
was heaps. We very rarely used more than 2. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We took good, heavy, non-stick, kitchen pots &
pans and this turned out to be a blessing. It made cooking easy and washing up
less of a mess.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Directors
camping chairs. Colman, corroded and the side table on one chair broke<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Dual fuel
stoves (Colman fuel & unleaded petrol). These performed OK, but by the end
of the trip they failed to light properly and gave off a lot of carbon/smoke<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Accommodation</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The nightly stops are recorded in our blog. We were probably a bit more
cautious than most other overlanders who prefer to “wild camping”. Mostly we
found places with facilities to shower; from a brothel (?) in Angola to luxury
camping in Marrakech. However, we did wild camp quite often and
enjoyed the experience.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We found guide books very unhelpful and struggle to recall an occasion
where we got decent accommodation from them. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">To find accommodation we read other peoples blogs, chatted to local
folks, put other overlanders through an intense grilling (to see where they had
stayed), asked at a camp ground if they could recommend a place further on,
asked the police for help etc. all the seemed to work quite well.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Water<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">As stated above, our water purification system worked very well.
Typically we filled up our, 100<i>l</i>,
tank at camp grounds. But along the way we filled up from wells and rivers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Food</span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Along west Africa, there was only a small selection of produce. Normally
we purchased fruit & veg from the local markets. Generally, these were not
on the main roads, but tucked away, out of sight in a village. There is usually
a market or maybe just a few stalls in most villages. We would ask around to
find the right spot. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We did not buy much meat along the way. We filled up the freezers in RSA
and then with minced meat in Cameroon and that was about all. Why, well
generally the butchers do not look all that clean and the meat is covered with
flies. Also we could not identify a lot of the wild meat offered at the side of
the road. And, we did not want to encourage poaching. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We also keep a good selection of tinned and dried food, which we
replenished when we got to the main cities.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-45364029010895358972013-05-21T07:07:00.001-07:002013-05-21T07:07:19.630-07:00RSA... to the conclusion.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Day 23 to Day 25 – 25/4/13
to 27/4/13</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After returning from our
“final” driving and camping run, we spent a few days in Pretoria cleaning the
vehicle. Knowing that the Australian customs are rigorous, we removed
everything from the vehicle and cleaned it thoroughly. We took the vehicle to
vehicle detailers – twice!! We removed the accommodation unit and cleaned the
tray etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Every nook & cranny
in the vehicle was cleaned at least twice.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We suspect this will not
be sufficient – but we gave it our best shot.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 26 – 28/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove down to Durban.
We had forgotten what a pleasant drive this was – after the flat Highveld. The
hills were very scenic and in the distance the Drakensburg Mountains already
had snow.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; S 29<sup>0</sup>
49’ 11.9’’ E 031<sup>0</sup> 01’ 17.7’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 27 – 29/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">THE day. We drove to yet
another vehicle detailing place, recommended by F.A.T.S and had the vehicle
cleaned – again. It was then sprayed with an enzyme solution(?!). We drove to
F.A.T.S premises to drop the vehicle off. The folks at F.A.T.S were again
fantastic and took care of all the details.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After lunch we flew back
to Johannesburg. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">According to the
Odometer, we had covered 90,968 km since we started on 5/9/2011. The GPS shows
~ 4,000 km more. This may be due to inaccuracies in the odometer, plus we used
slightly oversized tyres for a time. Also we had hired vehicles in Morocco and
South Africa and went on tours in Chad and Tanzania. So, our overall klms
probably approached 100,000. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We have visited 48
countries (including 5 in Europe) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A proper conclusion will
follow later.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 28 to Day 30 – 30/4/13
to 2/5/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Some days relaxing in
Pretoria. We caught up with John Durant who travelled with our group in Angola.
He did not expect to see us again!! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 31 to Day 32 – 3/5/13
to 4/5/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove (hire car) to
the Klaserie Game Reserve, on the border with the Kruger National Park be part
of the celebration of James & Cheryl’s marriage ( Cheryl is the daughter of
Avril’s bridesmaid, Jenny). It was a truly stunning affair at their private lodge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped at Gary
Freemans safari camp on the banks of the Klaserie river. Gary took us on a
number of game walks and drives. We were lucky enough to see elephant, impala,
lions, squirrels, buffalo, giraffe (including a very new born calf), warthog
(on the way out) and hyenas. Other couples at the camp were keen birders, so
there was an emphasis on this.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 33 to Day 34 – 5/5/13
to 6/5/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again bludging on rels
in Pretoria!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 35 to Day 37 – 7/5/13
to 9/5/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We flew to Cape Town,
hired a car and drove to Swellendam. The mountain scenery to the east of Cape
Town is almost as spectacular as that to the north. We drove through some high
mountain passes that gave excellent vistas across the country. Interestingly, the
rain fall here is not that high ( ~ 15”/annum) so we passed through mainly
grass lands and scrub. Most of the land is cultivated for grain and sheep. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stayed with Koos and
Marlene, friends from the trip through Angola, in Swellendam.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Swellendam is the 3<sup>rd</sup>
oldest town in RSA. It is set in the Breede River Valley and is very pretty. It
is also blessed with excellent infrastructure and tourist facilities,
restaurants etc. We of course had the very best guides. Koos took us to the
local Bontebok National Park. We were surprised at the amount of game in the
area. It seemed that the farmers had left tracks of indigenous vegetation along
the valleys, hill tops and rocky non-productive areas and game has survived
there. We saw a grysbok, a zebra, springbok and a rabbit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We went on a scenic
drive to Barrydale high in the hills, via another spectacular mountain pass. We
also took the opportunity to visit the father of Australian friends, who live
in this area.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Koos drove us to Cape
Aghulas the most southerly point on the African Continent. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">One evening we dined
with Christo & Salome, who are also friends from the Angola trip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a great time
catching up and we hope that we can welcome them to Australia one day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 38 to Day 40 – 10/5/13
to 12/5/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We spent time in Cape
Town catching up with friends and relatives.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Val (a good friend of
Avril’s from uni days) & her husband, Keith took us to the fabulous Uitsig
winery/restaurant. One gender set managed to drink a bottle of wine each. The
other gender set… chauffeured. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 41 to Day 47 – 13/5/13
to 21/5/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A time of reflection and
relaxation. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We met up with Rod &
Tamara Cassidy, owners of Sangha Lodge in CAR. They were forced to leave during
the recent coup there. They escaped to the Republic of Congo and were classed
as War Refugees. Fortunately their lodge has survived the looting, so fingers
crossed they will be back in action soon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On a not so good note,
without the National Park officers and WWF, Dzanga Bai has become a killing
ground with poachers from Sudan moving in to slaughter the elephants for the
ivory. You may remember when we were there, we saw 110 elephants in the bai at
the same time, socializing around the water holes. We feel sick when we think
about what the poachers are doing, to say nothing about the agents transporting
the ivory worldwide<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Rod and others have
started a petition to try and do something about this: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">http://www.avaaz.org/petition/STOP
THE ELEPHANT GENOCIDE IN WORLD HERTIAGE SITE DZANGA CLEARING CENTRAL AFRICAN
REPUBLIC</span></i></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On 21 May we flew from
Johannesburg landed home on 22 May: 647 days after we left.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">RSA
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We loved our time in
RSA. The people we met were friendly, hospitable and generous. After the
indifferent to appalling roads in the rest of Africa, the roads in RSA were
(with a couple of exceptions) in very good condition. It was wonderful to be
able to drink the water, flush the loo and flick the light switch and get …
light! The camp grounds we stayed in were all very good, well appointed with
good abolitions & hot water.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The food is fantastic,
with great ingredients from the shops (brilliant meat) and the restaurants were
generally well presented. Of course, the wines have a well deserved
international reputation. And: with the strength of the A$, the prices for were
ridiculously low.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There is a free and
robust press.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There is a vibrant and
very active theater scene and Graeme took us to many shows.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It does appear there is
a significant break down in law & order. This starts at the top with some
outrageous political corruption, cronyism & nepotism (at all levels of the
political system from the President to local councils). The police appear to
be corrupt (with discussions on just how much police perjury there is) and
dysfunctional. There continues to be significant personal safety issues. At the
lowest level, there is basically no adherence to road laws, with speeding and
talking on the phone whilst driving etc endemic.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The country is totally
obsessed with race. It is a pity that RSA does not seem to be able to avoid the
path that most other African countries followed when they obtained democracy.
It seems they will need to go through the cycle of “big men”, corruption,
effective disenfranchisement of the population, poverty (relative to what could
have been achieved) before the leadership look for what is best for ALL the
population. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-22164433471284774522013-04-27T09:36:00.000-07:002013-04-27T09:36:45.728-07:00More RSA, Mozambique & Swaziland<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">RSA continuing…<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 17 to Day 21 – 11/4/13 to 14/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We spend a few days in Pretoria and enjoyed being with family and doing some minor chores. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We picked up the vehicle from the local Toyota dealership and found that much of the work had not been done. We will need to get it done when we return. This is one of the few times a Toyota garage has let us down.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 18 – 15/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">After returning (twice) to Toyota, we were finally on the road again. We drove through to Nelspruit. The road along the Highvelt was flat and unimpressive, but the hills dropping into the Lowvelt and Nelspruit were scenic and offered some great views. Looking at the signs, it must be a big trout fishing area. As you would expect in RSA the road was a very high standard, but with many tolls booths!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">In Nelspruit we caught up with Ben & Jen, fellow overlanders we had met a few times down the East Coast. It was great to share a meal and chat about our experiences along the way. We also got hints on where to stay in Mozambique.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">They introduced us to Marcel and his family who are starting a business in Mozambique. They informed us that you could cross from RSA into Mozambique from Kruger National Park. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Whilst in Nelspruit we decided to check in with the Mozambique and enquire about visa requirements for tourists. They strongly recommended that we obtain a visa there and not at the border. They issue visas on the same day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We camped at the well appointed Natures Gate, ~ 7 km west of Nelspruit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Avril<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>driving; 336 km; S 25<sup>0</sup> 26’ 51.0’’ E 030<sup>0</sup> 53’ 08.2’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 19 – 16/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We were the first in line at the consulate, but discovered we needed ‘Proof of Accommodation’ in Mozambique. Thanks to Beverley in Pretoria, this was quickly arranged and the Consul accepted an email version of the confirmation. The visas were issued promptly at 14:00 as promised.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">While waiting for the visa we caught up with Jen. Ben, as is normal for Landrover folks, was at the garage! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Following Marcels advice, we decided to drive via KNP. We checked into Berg en Dal and went for a game drive. We were very fortunate to have 3 different and close sightings of Rhinoceros. First a mother and baby, then, very much in the open, a lone Rhino and finally on the way back to camp 4 Rhino walking along single file. There has been a lot in the press about poaching in KNP since the fence between KNP and the Great Limpopo NP was taken down. So, we were very lucky. We also managed to see impala (of course), some buffalo and a Kudu. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Avril<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>driving; S 25<sup>0</sup> 25’ 36.1’’ E 031<sup>0</sup> 26’ 46.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><o:p> </o:p></span></b><br />
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 20 – 17/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">For game viewers, we had a relatively slow start ~ 07:30. We drove via various loops and roads to Letaba camp.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Along the way we managed to see: warthog, waterbuck, elephant, tree squirrel, giraffe, impala, zebra, (distant) rhino, buffalo, hippo and wildebeest. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We also went on a night drive and were lucky enough to see a civet plus Spring Hares, Rabbits (unlike Oz, not considered a pest), 2 dens of Hyena (with baby cubs), hippo grazing out of water and Elephants. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Whilst there was some variety in what we saw, we thought that there was not a lot of game and at times we travelled a large distance without seeing anything. Given KNPs reputation, this was a bit disappointing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Avril<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>driving; S 23<sup>0</sup> 51’ 18.1’’ E 031<sup>0</sup> 34’ 45.9’’</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 21 – 18/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">No rest for the wicked and we were on the road by 6:45 so as to arrive at the border crossing by 08:00. Along the way we saw some elephant, Impala, waterbuck, buffalo and Tsessebe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The RSA formalities were quickly and efficiently completed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Mozambique<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 1 – 18/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The entrance formalities were completed efficiently, but it took a little time as everything was done via paper not computer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">As expected the Great Limpopo NP did not have a lot of game. We saw a few Impala and a lone elephant. The southern part of the park seems to have been taken over entirely by pastoralists. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The initial gravel road was in OK condition. This was followed by a tar road was initially in OK condition, but then deteriorated and was badly potholes until we reached the main N1.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The road verges have been badly eroded and at one point a truck swerved to miss a crack at the edge and in the process knocked and smashed our driver’s side mirror. Avril got some minor cuts in the process. Of course the other driver did not stop.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We drove on to the Sunset Beach lodge, which has camping. Marcel and family were also camped there. They have travelled extensively in Africa and so we had a nice time chatting about places and events.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Avril<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>driving; 462 km; 9 hrs; S 24<sup>0</sup> 57’ 25.3’’ E 034<sup>0</sup> 11’ 21.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 2 – 19/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We decided to be lazy and had breakfast at the lodge and then drove through to Tofo beach. Similar to Tanzania, the speed limits are closely monitored and we had to slow to the speed limit, immediately at the speed sign in all of the numerous towns and villages (no matter how small they are!). The drive was quite pleasant, there was not too much traffic and generally the road was lined with tropical vegetation, palm trees and such.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">On the way we stopped off at Inhambane. The guide book rates this as one of the top attractions in Mozambique, supposedly for its Mediterranean appearance and feel and for the clean streets and non dilapidated buildings. The guide book was printed in 2011, so we can only assume that the author had very different standards to us and maybe had never been to the Mediterranean so gathered his information on Mediterranean appearance and feel from books or such! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We camped at Bamboozi on the beach. The beach is very nice, golden sand and smooth, warm water. However, we both commented on how lucky Australia was to have our magnificent beaches. In the afternoon we went for a walk along the beach. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Ray driving; 231 km; S 23<sup>0</sup> 50’ 29.7’’ E 035<sup>0</sup> 32’ 13.8’’</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 3 – 20/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">A day at leisure on the beach. Mozambique is famous for its large Tiger Prawns. For the previous 2 nights we had ordered Tiger Prawns at the lodge restaurants, only to be given some very small shrimps. So, we went for a walk to the local marked and managed to buy some proper Tiger Prawns. There was no negotiation on price: ~ $ 12/kg. Dinner was garlic prawns, with salad (brought from RSA – little is available in Mozambique) and local bread.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The area has a great number of mosquitos, so we decided to move on the following day. There were reports of Remano attacks further north, so we decided to head back south.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 4 – 21/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We drove back to Sunset beach in the morning. There had been a large storm in the area the night before, so the beach was very choppy and not the brilliant blue it had been a few days previous. Ray went for a swim anyway.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We spent the rest of the day relaxing, reading etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Avril<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>driving; 714 km; 9 hrs; S 23<sup>0</sup> 04’ 58.2’’ E 026<sup>0</sup> 49’ 26.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 5 – 22/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We drove through to the Mozambique ~ Swaziland border. Along the way we stopped off at Xai Xai to get our mirror repaired. We hhad been told that there was a vendor around the corner from a particular office, but did not appreciate that the “shop” would be a stall on the street. Ray wandered along the street, broken mirror in hand, looking for a shop. A chap came running after him, and with a lot of hand gesturers he informed us he could fix the mirror and it would cost M 250 = $ 7 and would take 20 min. So we left the mirror with him and wandered off looking for brunch. We had already had breakfast!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">After 20 min we returned and found that a piece of mirror had been cut to approximately the correct dimensions and fitted into the broken rear view mirror frame.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We taped some gaffer tape around it, just to be sure and set off with at least some visibility on the passenger side.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The border crossing was completed with a minimum of fuss.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Mozambique Summary</span></b><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">From a tourist perspective, Mozambique seems to be mainly about the beaches. They are very nice, but it is a long way to go for a nice beach. Apparently the folks from RSA like to holiday at the beaches because it is safer there than in RSA. This is sort of ironic, as in RSA they blame the immigrants from Mozambique for a lot of the crime.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Apart from the main coastal road, we found the roads to be generally in poor condition.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We found Mozambique to be relatively high cost when compared to its neighbours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The 2011 Bradt Guide was already dated with some of the places mentioned closed. As it always the case, you can never get good or services for the prices quoted in the book. 5/10<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We used the Riese Know How map. 4/10.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Swaziland<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 1 – 22/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The crossing into the Kingdom of Swaziland was completed with a small hold up. We completed the immigration and customs/formalities very quickly but were stopped at the final gate. Apparently we needed tp pay a road toll (R 50). But the discussion centered on the need to pay import duty. Ray pointed out that the carnet was already stamped and a carnet meant that we did not need to pay duty. This all took some time to resolve. The gate guard also took our raw meat; apparently this cannot be imported from Mozambique. We did manage to salvage some nice marinated chicken.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We drove through to Hlane national Park and checked in. There had been a lot of rain in the area and a lot of the roads were closed. We went for a pre-dinner game drive and were fortunate to see some Nyala – our 1<sup>st</sup> ever! We also saw impala, warthog and bushbuck. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We cooked up our illegal chicken for dinner. The night was very clear and we had a good view of the southern cross. After dinner we wandered down to a dam near the camping enclosure and saw some Impala and noted that the fence around this part of the camping area consisted of 2 strands of loose barb wire. On the way back to our vehicle we heard the roar of a lion very close by. He seemed to walk along the fence. We assume that he was mating as we heard the intermittent roar all night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Avril<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>driving; 407 km; S 26<sup>0</sup> 15’ 38.9’’ E 031<sup>0</sup> 52’ 35.7’’</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 2 – 23/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">In the morning we went for another game drive and saw more Nyala, Impala, bushbuck, wildebeest, a Kudu and elephant.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We then drove through some wonderful hills to the Ezulwini Valley – ancestral home of the Swazi kings. For us it was a chance to have a look at some curios. We had been very good on the shopping front to this point. We bought a nice table cloth with an African theme.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We then drove through some great mountain scenery to Piggs Peak. The area reminded us a lot of the mountains in France and Andorra during our trip there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">We drove to the Malolotji Reserve for our last camp of the trip. The reserve has a herd of Blesbok. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">As the Swazi border people had taken our “good” meat, we ate some of our emergency rations for dinner. The night was FREEZING!!! After 3 summers, it will be hard to go back to a winter. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Ray driving; 189 km; S 26<sup>0</sup> 08’ 38.0’’ E 031<sup>0</sup> 07’ 54.7’’</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 3 – 24/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">As we were freezing, we decided to pack up quickly and get some breakfast on the road. On the way to the border we stopped off at a glass works and brought some curios. We also went into the furnace area to get warm.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Swazi formalities were completed in less than a minute. As there is a customs union between RSA and Swaziland, there were no customs/carnet issues.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Swaziland Summary</span></b><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Swaziland has had some negative press recently, mainly to do with the king and his many wives and the cost of the entourage. However, we though the country was very well set up. Very little litter, high standard and well maintained roads. No beggars. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The scenery is stunning. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Lonely Planet guide was useful. 7/10.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">More RSA<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Day 22 – 24/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The entry into RSA was ultra quick. We drove through to Pretoria to prepare the vehicle for shipping.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Avril<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>driving; 341 km<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-84908032003081108452013-04-06T02:07:00.001-07:002013-04-06T02:07:36.270-07:00South Africa, again<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Day 1 – 24/3/13</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">RSA formalities took
time: there was confusion over our initial entry (19 months ago) into RSA, then
a vehicle inspection. We made time to assist some motor bikkers from Gabs who
needed a jump start.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The country side was
similar to Botswana i.e. flat and desert. The difference was that in RSA
most/all of the land was farmed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again, with good roads
and no speed bumps we made good time to Kathu, ~ 50 kmk past Kuruman.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 700 km; 10 hrs; S 27<sup>0</sup> 41’
57.8’’ E 023<sup>0</sup> 02’ 46.2’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 25/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Another long days
driving. We passed through Upington and checked in at a tyre garage to get an
wheel alignment. Unfortunately it seems that the tie rod ends have worn to such
an extent that the alignment is not possible. Ewe asked the garage to source
the parts and we will fit them on the way back.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We managed to get to
Kgalagadi NP in the mid afternoon. We had tried to book a camp site on the
internet, but the site would not allow us to do that, but it showed
accommodation was available. On arrival
the receptionist informed us that the park accommodation was fully
booked. A family beside us at reception overheard this and offered to share
their site with us. How great is that! So, we had accommodation and as events
turned out, there were camping spaces available so we did not need to impose.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On exiting the reception
area a chap approached us and told us where we could spot a cheater and some
mating lions. On entry to the park we went straight to a game drive and
dutifully saw the cheater and mating lions. Nearby the mating couple there was
another very dejected looking lion. IN addition we saw some hyena, gemsbok,
springbok and wildebeest. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; We forgot to take the coordinates. But
the coordinates from T4A are: S 26<sup>0</sup> 28’ 23.8’’ E 020<sup>0</sup> 36’
45.6’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 26/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As good game viewers, we
were up reasonably early, but not as keen as those who were at the gate opening
at 06:00. On entry into the park we saw a lioness strolling up a dune and
across a ridgeline. That took the pressure off for the day – “we had seen
lion”. We also say 2 other groups of lions, including the copulating couple
again. We were very fortunate to see a rare Brown Hyena, just after we had seen
a more common spotted hyena. Another highlight was some giraffe sitting down
under a tree – we had never seen a sitting giraffe before. We were also
fortunate to make a number of sightings of (cheeky) jackals, including 6 at one
water hole. In addition to the buck we saw the day before we say a herd of
Hartebeest. We stopped for a while to watch a colony of ground squirrels acting
sort of like meercats. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove around until ~
16:00 – Avril wanted to get back early and do some washing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the evening we went
for a night drive. There had been a fierce storm late in the afternoon and the
guide apologised that the game would have probably sought shelter. However, we
thought it was rather good. We had our first sighting of a Cape Fox, a number
of jackals, incredibly another sighting of a Brown Hyena and of course the
normal buck.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 27/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Another early start to
the day. On our game drive we really only saw large herds of buck.
Unfortunately, the BFGoodrich tyres failed again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Both the
rear tyres developed bubbles. The left one failed and we had to change it.
Whilst we were doing this the police happened along. They were concerned for
us, as there were apparently lions in the area. So, nice chaps they are, they
changed the tyre for us. They told is that a number of RSA soldiers had been
killed in the CAR and the President (whom we met when we were there) had fled.
They were (rightly) outraged at the deaths of the soldiers. Apparently the 200
RSA soldiers fought 13 hr fire fight against 3,000. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had the spares fixed
at the rest camp. The fellas there did a great job matching tyres to rims etc.
But, we decided that we should go through to Upington and get the issues
sorted.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">During our time in the
park we noted a camaraderie among the game viewers. Folks would stop us to tell
us where there were interesting sightings may be just to chat whilst we were
looking at animals. Everyone waved to each other when passing. Everyone in the
camp ground was interested in our travels etc. We also noted that Afrikaans was
the predominant language spoken. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In Upington, we stayed
at the River Bank Guest House and had an absolutely fantastic red meat dinner (Ray
steak & Avril lamb chops) at a local pub. This was at a fraction of the
price we would have pain in Australia. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; S 28<sup>0</sup> 27’ 18.4’’ E 021<sup>0</sup>
15’ 06.8’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 – 28/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril decided on a
morning of leisure whilst Ray attended to the car. Unfortunately Toyota could
not provide the parts for the tie rods – so we will have to put up with that
issue for some more time. We did purchase 2 new tyres. Great news, <b>NOT</b>
BFGoodrich. We fitted Pirelli’s.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove onto
Springbok along an excellent highway. The initial part was flat desert,
reminiscent of some deserts in Nth Africa. Around Springbok the countryside
changed to small mountains, still desert.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had wanted to do some
grocery shopping in Springbox, but on Good Friday eve the whole town was in a
shopping frenzy. So we decided to go without.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 376 km; 5
hrs; S 29<sup>0</sup> 40’ 23.9’’ E 017<sup>0</sup> 53’ 57.4’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 9 – 29/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a quiet day
relaxing in Springbok. We went for a drive around the barren hills surrounding
the town. Then we did a bit of shopping and had coffee at a local café.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Mias & Ronel,
friends from the Angola trip arrived in the mid afternoon. We spent the
remainder of the day chatting and catching up and in typical RSA style, Mias
cooked up a wonderful BBQ for dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 10 – 30/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Under the guiding eye of
Mias and Ronel, we drove through the shore based section of the Namaqua
National Park and onto the marine section. This is a relatively new NP and we
were fortunate to see Gemsbok, Springbok, Steenbok, Hartebeest and a
klipspringer. This was all unexpected. After fish and chips at a fishing
village, we proceeded down the coastal section of the park.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Sections of the road
down the coast are sandy. We did get stuck and then Ray remembered to lock the
vehicle into 4WD! The going was a bit tough in stages, but as long as we
deflated our tyres we were OK. At one point a couple of vehicles were stuck, we
lent them our sand plates and continued onto some interesting caves/rock arches.
On the way back to the road from the caves we retrieved the plates. Mias towed
out a stuck vehicle and as a reward was given a freshly caught crayfish. The
area is very big for recreational rock lobster diving.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We made camp at Vairswater
bay – right on the sea. We cooked up a great feast of lobster, followed by a
full beef fillet and veggies done on the BBQ. A wonderful sunset added to the
delight. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It began to rain at ~
21:30 and the rain followed us down the coast for the next + 24 hours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 206 km; S 30<sup>0</sup> 41’ 11.8’’
E 017<sup>0</sup> 28’ 44.9’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 11 – 31/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a bit of a sleep
in, we packed up our soggy tent (LIB for Ray for not putting on the fly!). We continued
down the coast, though a mix of drizzle and sea mist. The coast was a great
variety of white sand beaches and rugged, rocky areas. The sandy sections of
the road were generally OK, though we did need to deflate. However, in one area
there was a clay/salt pan on a hill and we lost control of the vehicle. We commenced
a series of 360<sup>0</sup> turns. It was not dangerous and we both laughed loudly.
It may have been a lot tougher for those leaving later in the day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Mias & Ronel had
kindly invited us to stay at their home, on a canal in Velddrift. They have a
great community there. We were invited over to a neighbour’s house for fresh
lobster, but had to decline (as a boat load of local chap arrived to raid the
bar and have a chat) and so a young chap when a collected a couple for us. Mias cooked up a wonderful seafood BBQ.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 308 km; S 32<sup>0</sup> 47’ 14.7’’
E 018<sup>0</sup> 09’ 16.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 12 – 1/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a hearty brunch we
drove through to Cape Town and spent the rest of the day with our niece, Brittany.
We went for a delicious Italian meal we did a bit of shopping. In the evening
we watched Brit play hockey, in the pouring rain.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; ~ 150 km; S 33<sup>0</sup> 57’ 20.6’’
E 018<sup>0</sup> 28’ 28.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 13 – 2/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were up very early to
start the long trek to Pretoria. Fortunately we were against the traffic as
there were massive and very long traffic jams into Cape Town. We had forgotten
just how spectacular the mountains though the Hex valley and surrounding area
were, so it was delightful to drive through them again. We had a similar
experience in the Great Karoo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a couple of false
starts, we stopped at Kroonstad in the Hacienda Hotel. Ray had red meat again –
great taste as ridiculously low priced.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Oh, yes, we HAVE put on
weight!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 1220 km; 12.5 hrs; S 27<sup>0</sup> 38’
56.8’’ E 027<sup>0</sup> 13’ 55.7’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 14 – 3/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived in Pretoria in
the early afternoon. Avril went to the hair dressers and Ray checked out
garages.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 15 – 4/4/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril departed for hew sojourn
in Australia and Ray booked the car in for a service. Fortunately, the garage
will look after the car for the next week.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-69305805695752729972013-03-24T09:51:00.003-07:002013-03-24T09:51:51.392-07:00Zambia, Zimbabwe & Botswana - again<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Zambia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 7/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The crossing into Zambia
was straight forward. We purchased a dual entry visa to allow us to go into Zimbabwe
at Victoria Falls and had to pay 200 new Kwacha (divide old Kwacha by 1,000) in
CO<sub>2</sub> tax. In addition there was a Council tax or such – all
receipted.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The drive to Chipata was
easy, on a good road through maize fields.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Chipata was a nice
surprise, lots of veg, a little fruit and a couple of good supermarkets.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We went quickly to Mama
Rulas campsite ~ 8 km from town.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Unfortunately there was
an overland bus there and a second arrived after dark. The later bus carried
elderly Dutch tourists and they proceeded to make a lot of noise until very
late. After this experience, we prefer the younger group!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 200 km; (inc airport run); S 13<sup>0</sup>
34’ 57.7’’ E 032<sup>0</sup> 36’ 34.9’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 8/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We went into Chipata to
do some shopping. In addition to the supermarket we needed to buy some drugs -
malaria & statins. In Australia these would have needed a prescription, but
in Zambia we got them OTC.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray asked the (Indian)
Pharmacist if he knew where he could get a haircut. He got into his car and
took us to where he got his hair cut – a friend’s house in a 2<sup>nd</sup> class
shopping area. In this case Ray got very good value for money. He will not need
another cut for a long time!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then met Bob &
Brigid who had driven from Luangwa Bridge that day. After a quick lunch, we
went to the camp site and chatted the rest of the day away.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Another group of elderly
Dutch tourists showed up, with a similar result to the night before. We should
mention that these buses set off very early in the morning (05:00) and so the
noise starts very early.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Since leaving Tanzania, we
are well and truly on the Cape to Nairobi overland bus route.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 9/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">With Bob & Brigid,
we set off at a reasonable time for Mfuwe and the South Luangwa National Park.
Large sections of the road are being upgraded and so the trip had a lot of
diversions and poor road conditions. On the way to the camp we spotted some
elephants. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We set up camp at the
Wildlife camp (note: Flatdogs no longer allows camping). The Wildlife camp has
separate sections for buses and small vehicles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped high on the
bank of the Luangwa river and spotted some buffalo and impala going to the
water to drink. The noisy hippos made sure they were also noticed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Park entry is on a daily
basis, not 24 hour, so we elected not to have a game drive in the afternoon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 145 km; 3 hrs; S 13<sup>0</sup> 06’
35.2’’ E 031<sup>0</sup> 45’ 13.5’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Day 4 – 10/3/13</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We all got up early to
get into the park soon after opening, 06:00. Unfortunately the paperwork at the
entry took ~ 20 min. Normally in the wet season the game scatters, however we
had a great game drive. Not too much unusual; elephants, giraffe, zebra,
warthogs, bushbuck, puku, impala, water buck, reed buck, buffalo etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After lunch Ray &
Bob went back to the game park and purchased entry for the following day & beer. Then Bob & Brigid went and fetched
Steve & Ing from the Mfuwe airport.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As you can imagine,
there was a lot of chatter in the evening. To explain – the 3 boys (??!!)
worked together on the Copperbelt in Zambia from 1976 till 1978 – so this was
to be a trip down memory lane!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 – 11/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Bob’s birthday! But, he
still had to get up early. It was raining hard, however we decided to proceed
with a game drive. Again, we did not see too much unusual but it was very
different spotting game in the pelting rain.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a hearty brunch
& some champagne after returning from the game drive. Then a relaxing
afternoon. At 16:00 we started a night game drive, arranged by the folks at the
Wildlife camp. This included some sundowners – which we supplemented with our
own drinks. On the way to the sundowners, Avril excelled by spotting a dead
hyena in a ditch beside a culvert. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The night drive turned
out to be fantastic. We were fortunate to see a full leopard kill, from the
initial spotting of the prey (herd of impala) by the leopard, through the
stalking which took ~ 40 min, the final leap and then the kill. It took some
time for the leopard to choke the impala and due to all the attention and the
potential for a hyena to take the prey, the leopard dragged the kill into a
dense bush. A once in a lifetime experience. Then on the way out of the park we
were lucky enough to see 2 porcupines. Due to their actions at the side of the
road, Bob speculated that they may have been mating. We also saw a huge
crocodile crossing the road on the way back to the river.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 6 – 12/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We managed to have a
reasonably relaxed start to the day. Then we drove back over the awful road to
Chipata – which had further deteriorated with the rain. After a small shop in
the town we drove through to Luawanga Bridge and the camp site there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road was in pretty good
condition, but the countryside not all that interesting. There were a lot less
people than in most other countries, which meant less speed bumps and greater
speed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; ~ 500 km;
8.5 hrs; S 13<sup>0</sup> 06’ 18.2’’ E 030<sup>0</sup> 12’ 54.8’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 7 – 13/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We sat around and
chatted a bit in the morning, then drove through to Lusaka on a reasonable tar
road. The shopping mall we stopped at was a culture shock – it could have been
in any 1<sup>st</sup> world country - clothes shops (Avril managed to buy some
shorts) and food outlets.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After lunch we drove to
Fringilla farm, 50 km north of Lusaka.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ing cooked up a superb
Chinese meal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 281 km; 7
hrs (inc shopping time!); S 15<sup>0</sup> 00’ 15.6’’ E 028<sup>0</sup> 09’ 31.7’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 8 – 14/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a very gentle
start to the day, including one of the Fringilla’s famous pies for breakfast
(boys only) our little convey started out for Chingola. The Great North Road as
far as the Ndola turn off was in good condition, but after that deteriorated
with sections of serious potholes. We stopped for a picnic at the side of the
road and watched a truck deliver fresh maize beer to some of the local folks.
This is delivered in bulk and poured from a large tank into 20 litre containers.
Apparently 20 litres costs about K 20 ~ $ 4! If one can wait for about 3 days
the alcoholic content rises to 9%! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It took some time to get
through Kitwe. The road from Kitwe to Chingola was very congested, not like the
“old days” when normally one did not see any vehicles on this stretch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We booked into the
Protea hotel when we got to Chingola and then the boys wandered off to see if
they could recognise any of the buildings from the 1970s. They found their old
accommodation flats and the various clubs. They went into the Arts Theatre,
chatted to the members and had a quiet ale.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were impressed with
the level of agriculture and the availability of fresh produce on the drive up.
In the “old days” there was very little food available. However, the roads in
Chingola have deteriorated badly – a lot of them are just a series of potholes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 359 km; 6 hrs; S 03<sup>0</sup> 24’
35.2’’ E 029<sup>0</sup> 20’ 53.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 9 – 15/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After breakfast, we
drove around town for some photo opportunities. Then we drove back to Fringilla
farm. On the way we managed to get caught twice in speed traps. The first of
the traps only caught the OTHER car and the driver payed a little less and did
not get a receipt! So, no more lecturers on ethics from them in the future. In
the second trap both cars were caught and payed the full price with receipt –
73 and 81 kph in a 50 zone! Luckily we were not in Aus as we would have lost
our licenses! Avril was very upset as it was her first speeding fine in 40
years of driving! Although Ray reckons she is a “lead foot” and has been Very
lucky not to have fined many times!! The road signs were a little difficult to
see.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 361 km; 6.5 hrs<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 10 – 16/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We headed down through
Lusaka (shopping) and onto the Zambezi river, ~ 40 km before the Lower Zambezi
National Park. The road down was, generally in good condition to the turn off
just before Zimbabwe border. The country side was generally flat until the turn
off to Chilumba and then the decent into the Zambezi valley provided some rolling
hills. There was a dirt road to Kiambia
lodge which was variable in condition. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had to cross the
Kafue River on a pontoon. As we were foreigners in a foreign vehicle, we paid 3
times as much as the locals. I wonder how that would go down in western
countries – if we started to charge Africans 3 times as much for services etc??<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The folks at Kiambia
looked after us royally. We had power for our batteries, cold beers, they made
and lit the BBQ fire for us etc. As they had just painted the camping
ablutions, Bob & Brigid+ Steve & Ing were given a chalet for the 2
nights. We elected to “stay at home” in our accommodation module.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 222 km; S 015<sup>0</sup> 56’ 11.5’’
E 028<sup>0</sup> 55’ 32.3’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 11 – 17/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We went on a game
watching cruise along the Zambezi. The weather was ideal – though most of us
managed to get a little burnt. We stopped on an island in the river for a
picnic lunch. As it was the rainy season, most of the game had dispersed into
the bush, so we did not see a great deal: impala, elephants, crocodiles,
hippos, kudu and a couple of monitor lizards. We also took the opportunity to
become bird watchers – for the day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It was wonderful to go
slowly along one of the world’s great rivers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 12 – 18/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove down to
Moorings Camp ~ 10 km north of Monze. This time no one was fined by the police.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived early for
what was planned to be Bob & Brigid’s last night of camping.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 221 km; 5.5 hrs; S 016<sup>0</sup> 11’
38.1’’ E 027<sup>0</sup> 32’ 36.9’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 13 – 19/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Onwards to Livingstone
& Victoria Falls. We had a quick look at the Zambezi River above the Falls
and then checked out accommodation options. We quickly discovered that Vic
Falls is not a low cost area. We eventually settled on the Bushfront, with Ray
& Avril opting for camping and the rest for chalets.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We went on the sunset
cruise on the Zambezi Rover – commonly known as the “booze cruise”. The price
included drinks, snacks and dinner. We were more restrained than the overland
bus folks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 359 km; 6 hrs; S 03<sup>0</sup> 24’
35.2’’ E 029<sup>0</sup> 20’ 53.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 14 – 20/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">First off, we visited
the Falls on the Zambia side. As it was nearing the end of the wet season, the
river was quite high and the Falls lived up to their reputation as “the smoke
that thunders”. The huge volume of water ensured that we all got completely
drenched. We all went down to the “Boiling Pot”, the narrow gorge where the
river gushes through. Then we walked over the bridge to the Zimbabwe side – one
third of the Falls is in Zambia and the rest is in Zimbabwe. Ray & Avril
purchased a dual entry visa for $ 45 each.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We enjoyed a steak lunch
at the famous Victoria Falls Hotel, overlooking the 2<sup>nd</sup> & 3<sup>rd</sup>
gorges and the bridge. On the way to back, Ray decided to take the plunge and
went on a flying fox high above the junction of the 2<sup>nd</sup> & 3<sup>rd</sup>
gorges. A bit of an adrenalin rush and over too quickly to enjoy the view.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then visited the
extensive Zimbabwe side of the falls, not everyone went the full distance as it
involved yet another full drenching.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then returned to the
Zambia side and decided to dine at the restaurant in the resort – too exhausted
from the day’s exertion to cook ourselves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 15 – 21/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were up early to pack
and get through the border formalities. After breakfast we said our (sad) good-byes
to Bob & Brigid/Steve & Ing and headed for the border.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The formalities were
completed very quickly.<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Zambia
Summary</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Zambia was a pleasant
surprise. The roads were generally in good condition: Ndola – Chingola the
major exception. The road from Chipata to Sth Luangwa is being worked on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Most towns had usable
ATMs and generally there were decent supermarkets.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It was fantastic to
travel with friends. The camping accommodation was generally of a high
standard. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In general we found the
Zambians were hospitable without being overly friendly.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did not use any guide
books or maps, but relied on memory (34 years!) and the advice of folks along
the way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Zimbabwe<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 21/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a very quick and
efficient entry into Zim. We had to pay CO<sub>2</sub> tax and road tax of $
40. In Vic Falls we collected the video of Ray’s flying fox exploit of the
previous day. Then we headed to Hwange National Park. We went through 3 road
blocks on the way. We had heard that in Zim these were onerous, but we found
the police officers to be polite, cheerful and quick at the task.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road to Hwange town
was very good and we saw our 1<sup>st</sup> wayside/picnic stops in a long
time. The country side was flat with the vegetation right up to the road side.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We entered Hwange National
Park at Sinamatela and were delighted to find that a $ 20/person entry lasted 7
days. Camping was $ 30/site/night. All very reasonable. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then we drove around the
park and visited a few dams/pans. We did not see a lot of game and decided to
go through to Robins Camp and spend the night there. The facilities, though
dated, were in good working order and very clean. Hot water for the showers and
cold beer!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 241 km; S 18<sup>0</sup> 37’ 47.5’’ E
025<sup>0</sup> 59’ 17.5’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 22/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Like good game viewers,
we were on the road early. We drove through to Main Camp via a number of loops
and dams/pans. The game was very sparse in the areas (including water points)
around Sinamatela and Robins camps and almost non-existent between water
points. This made the days quite long. Nearer to Main Camp there was more game
and we sat in a couple of hides for some time. One of the hides had a small
snake ensconced in it, so we only spent a short time there! All in all we saw:
giraffe, elephant, water buck, wildebeest, kudu, yellow mongoose, warthog,
meerkat, impala, zebra, hippo, jackal and crocodile. Not a bad selection, but
the lack of numbers was disappointing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Main Camp was well set
up with aged, but clean ablutions and a well stocked shop. We decided to try a
night drive. This lasted 2 hours and was quite disappointing as we only saw a
few impala and a couple of elephants.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Apparently the lack of
game sightings was due to the time of year- the game scatters during the wet.
However, we covered over 350 km in the time we were in the park and would have
expected even with scattered game to see a bit more.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 167 km; S 18<sup>0</sup> 43’ 57.4’’
E 026<sup>0</sup> 57’ 06.5’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 23/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We decided that the game
viewing in Hwange did not warrant any further time, so we made an early start
to Botswana. Along the way we stopped off at Bulawayo for some refreshments.
Avril & Ray disagreed on the state of the city: Ray thought it looked clean
and prosperous but Avril thought it was run down, compared to our last visit in
1994-thanks Robert Mugabe. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again the police at the
road blocks were polite and wanted to chat. With excellent roads and a 120
km/hr speed limit we made very good time. The scenery was generally
uninteresting and the route was, in the main, scrubby forest.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The border formalities
were completed very efficiently and quickly.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Zimbabwe
Summary</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It is hard to make
meaningful comment after 3 days of which the majority was in National parks.
However we had a positive impression of Zim. Other Overlanders had found it
expensive and the road blocks onerous. We thought the prices were very
reasonable, the road blocks no more numerous than other countries and the
police officers polite. We were not held up at any of the road blocks – except
for a chat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The roads were in
excellent condition (except for the main routes in Hwange National Park).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We found it rather sad
to see the small number of tourists wherever we went – the venues are all ready
to receive guests, the staff are keen and eager, but spend most of the day with
nothing to do. Once again, thank you, Robert Mugabe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Botswana,
again<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 23/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were greeted with
that special rudeness the Tswana have cultivated in Botswana. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The border formalities
took longer than expected as the staff had more important matters to attend to
i.e. idle chat. We had to pay Pula 270 road tax.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again, with excellent
roads and a 120 km/hr speed limit we made good time. The countryside was well
and truly semi arid with low acacia trees and little grass.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stopped at the Oasis
Lodge (camping) at Mahalapye<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 714 km; 9 hrs; S 23<sup>0</sup> 04’
58.2’’ E 026<sup>0</sup> 49’ 26.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 24/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were up super early
to get some kms on the clock. Again the road was of a high standard and with no
speed bumps and not too much traffic we made good time. The country side
continued to be flat and semi desert. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stopped off in Gaborone
to buy a few provisions and set off for the border.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The formalities took a
little time, but we got through without any hassle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> <b>Botswana
observation<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Infrastructure is very
good through out the areas we travelled. The government has put the HQ of key
Departments e.g. railways, geological survey etc in provincial towns.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Shopping centers and
general outlook of the streets was very modern.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-31923010258371608352013-03-08T02:00:00.001-08:002013-03-24T10:02:07.907-07:00Tanzania 3 & Malawi<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><b>Pictures</b></span><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> to follow when we have some proper internet</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Tanzania
3<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 33 – 21/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a frustrating day
trying to follow the evolving and changing situation with the Malawi strike,
Lilongwe airport and Kenya airlines. Initially Avril was on a flight on the 22<sup>nd</sup>,
then the airport would not open until the 23<sup>rd</sup> and finally the
definitive statement from Kenya Airlines; they would not fly until the 25<sup>th</sup>
at the earliest.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">So, we made a new plan!
Avril would fly to Mbeya on Saturday 23<sup>rd</sup> and Ray and Gabrielle
would drive down and meet her there. Then, Avril and Gabrielle would drive down
in our Landcruiser and Ray would proceed into Malawi and down the lake by taxi.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the afternoon Avril
& Gabrielle went to the movies with Funmi to see Le Miserables.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 34 – 22/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Nightmare day!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Gabrielle & Ray set
off to Iringa. The Dar traffic lived up to its reputation and it took more than
2 hours to finally exit the last of the suburbs. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Tanzam highway has a
terrible reputation with overlanders. It is the most policed road we have ever
been on. The village speed limit is 50 km/hr and EVERY village has a police
trap/stop and the villages probably cover ~ 40% of the road distance. A lot of the time the speed de-restriction
sign is missing or non-existent, making it a matter of guess work as to when
you could speed up. We were very observant of the 50 km/hr limit, as were all
other drivers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were stopped by most
of the police road blocks, but managed to talk our way out of all but one. 100
km/hr in a 50 km/hr zone. We had guessed wrongly where a village actually ended
– there was no de-restriction sign. There is no policing outside the towns and
some of the driving on the open road was very average. On a few occasions we
needed to pull completely off the road to make room for a passing bus.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The drive should have been
pleasant and the scenery in places was stunning with some great vistas of an
extensive plateau, mountains etc. In addition we passed through the Mukumi
National park and managed to get some game viewing in: elephant, giraffe, impala,
buffalo, zebra, wildebeest etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then, just before
Iringa, immediately after we had stopped at a police road block, a cyclist ran
into us. He bounced off the bull bar, bounced off the bonnet and was dragged
along until we could stop.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Total disaster.
Gabrielle got the police from the road block (less than 200 m away) and
fortunately a nurse in a ute/bakkie happened by. The cyclist was reasonably OK
and she took him to hospital where he was assessed as having a broken femur,
broken teeth and scratches – a very lucky boy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After measuring the
accident scene, we went to the Iringa Police Station and met the Station Chief
– Stephen. He was super helpful and made sure we were OK and found us a hotel
for the evening. Saiviia Hotel<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Everyone: the witnesses,
the cyclist’s brother, the traffic officer at the scene, Stephen etc all said
it was not our fault and were very concerned for our wellbeing. Still we were
both highly traumatised.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril was more fortunate
in Dar. She had her hair “done”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 499 km; Would
have been 9.5 hrs; S 03<sup>0</sup> 24’ 35.2’’ E 029<sup>0</sup> 20’ 53.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 35 – 23/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the morning Ray and
Gabrielle went back to the police station to meet the District Chief. He
quickly reviewed the case and sent us on our way. Many thanks to Stephen again
for assisting with everything and making a very stressful situation a bit
easier.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The drive from Iringa to
Mbeya was again very frustrating. This section had lots of road works to
compliment the village speed restrictions. 5.5 hrs for the 330 kms.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We met Avril at the
Precision Air office and the helpful folks there organised a taxi to the
border. $ 70.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril had a stressful
morning, nearly missing her flight. There were no English announcements at the
domestic Dar airport and the plane to leave 15 min early. Avril had gone to the
gate to find the steps removed and the plane engines running. After much
pleading, they allowed her on the flight.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The drive to the border
was much less stressful than the preceding days - through lush hills, fertile
valleys and a final descent to the floor of the Rift valley. The area has
extensive agriculture, lots of bananas and avocados. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Tanzania formalities
were very quickly completed. We did have to pay road tax of $25 as we had
exceeded the 7 day grace period.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Tanzania
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a great time in
Tanzania. We found the tourism industry to be professional, helpful and of a
high standard. We found it relatively easy to find camping accommodation where
needed. The game parks were great and Mafia Island very relaxing<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There was little
opportunistic begging and on the whole, the people were friendly and tried to
assist.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The continual police
road blocks were tiring. At a lot of the road blocks the police try to fine you
for any excuse. In the majority of cases you can argue your way out of this,
but each time takes at least 5 min and over a day this can add up to a
frustrating delay.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In general the roads are
in good condition, however there are many speed humps, not only in villages but
also to slow traffic on sharp bends, steep inclines etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Bradt guide is only
just OK. It remains a big challenge to get the prices quoted in the guide. 5/10<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again we used the Reise
Knowhow map and found the distances were understated. 4/10<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Malawi<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 23/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a very simple
crossing into Malawi. Yellow fever innoculation certificates were checked and
then a wonderful surprise – there is no entry fee!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We quickly hired a car
to drive Ray to Chitimba Beach ($ 70).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did not realise that
there was a 1 hr time change in Malawi, so even though we underestimated the
travel time we arrived at the Chitimba Beach Camp at ~ 19:00. The owner, Eddy,
warmly greeted us and even though the kitchen was officially closed, they made
us some wonderful hamburgers for dinner. Oh, and they did have cold beer!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were surprised by the
number of people walking and cycling along the road. Malawi has ~ 17 m people
in a, by Australian standards, very small country. So, there are people
everywhere and the countryside is all given to agriculture.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The asphalt road was in
good condition<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray then Avril driving; 359 km; 6 hrs; S 03<sup>0</sup> 24’
35.2’’ E 029<sup>0</sup> 20’ 53.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 24/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A relaxing day. Ray
needed to do a little work and so the girls took a stroll along the beach. Then
we walked into the local hamlet to try and find some vegetables. The only
veggies on sale were tomatoes and onions – no greens. We chatted to a roadside
food stall man and he volunteered to make us some potato leaves for greens. We
were a little unsure but he assured us they would taste great. So we paid our
money for later delivery and walked back to the accommodation.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We spent the afternoon
at the beach. As promised our potato leaf dish was delivered. They had been
cooked with onions and a little tomato and oil and tasted delicious. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Dinner was bratwurst
from Denmark, dehydrated potato from the UK (which has improved greatly), salad
from Tanzania and potato leaves from Malawi.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 25/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It had rained most of
the night but fortunately the morning was clear. The day before we had
negotiated for a car to take us to Livingstonia. When it turned up it turned
out to be a very small Toyota. We managed to fit in reasonably comfortably. The
road is very steep with a large number of hairpin bends and it is in extremely
poor condition. The vehicle pushed on heroically and our chauffeur knew the
limits and drove very slowly and carefully. At one point on the ascent he asked
if there had been any rain in the area – the answer was no. Mmmm. As we got
closer to the top the road changed to dirt/clay and there had been rain. Lots
of rain! We managed to slip and slide our way through some difficult patches
and then got completely bogged. Our driver suggested that we get out and push –
which we did for a bit. But the mud was flying everywhere, so we decided to
walk. We saw a lot of young males running down the hill; our driver made a
phone call and these enterprising lads were on their way to push the vehicle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The driver then decided
that, given the road condition, the vehicle could not proceed any further so we
decided to walk the rest of the journey to Livingstonia. This decision turned
out to be appropriate as the road deteriorated further. As we walked the clay
stuck to our feet and we added a few extra cm to our height. We probably walked
~ 2.5 km to the township and then a couple of extra kms in the town. We visited
the small local museum and a church before commencing our descent. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On the way down we
visited the impressive local Falls.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray thought that fresh
veggies were available at one of the lodges in the hills. We i.e. in the car,
made our way down a very steep access track to a lodge, only to find that
veggies were not available. The vehicle could not make the ascent back to the
main road with all of us in it (we are not saying who has put on weight with
the 3 great meals a day at the Tanzania lodges!!!) so we got out and walked.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then tried the
Mushroom Farm Lodge and they did not have veggies either. We decided to
have some late lunch there. Whilst we
were waiting, Ian and Heather, who we had met in Addis, Nth Kenya and Uganda
(x2) showed up. We chatted for a bit and then made our way, slowly, down to the
floor of the Rift valley again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">With no veggies
available locally, we used tinned and dehydrated veggies for dinner! <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 26/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had organised for the
driver who had taken us to Livinstonia to also take Ray to Nkhata Bay – whilst the
girls drove in the Landcruiser. Again we had to ascend out of the Rift Valley. It
rained most of the morning. When we could see it, the scenery along the
way was grand; rolling hills covered with various shades of green that the
different crops give. We stopped off at Mzuzu to get provisions – meat at the
Peoples supermarket and to our great delight, fruit and veggies at a local
shop. Our hunt for bread was not so successful. We did manage to find a ”brown”
loaf at the bakery recommended in the Bradt guide, but not all the other
goodies they reported would be available.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We looked for suitable
accommodation in Nkhata Bay. The only place that could take our vehicle was the
Njaya Camp. But it appeared to be run down. So, after a negotiation with our
driver, we proceeded on to Chintheche and a lodge/camp recommended by Eddy. The
lodge has changed its name, so it took some time to find and when we got there
we found that camping was available, but there were no rooms for Gabrielle.
Apparently the camp had been completely closed and was now being renovated. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">So, on we drove to Kande
Beach. This was not our preferred option as this site has a reputation as THE
place for the overland trucks to party.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did manage to get a
nice camp site and a room for Gabrielle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our driver decided that
he would like to stay with us and transport us to the next location – and that
removed one small worry. The taxi for the day cost $ 100.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had time for a very
quick look at the beach before the rain come down.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 353 km; 7.5 hrs; S 011<sup>0</sup> 57’
03.8’’ E 034<sup>0</sup> 07’ 21.6’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray by taxi<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 – 27/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">With the assistance of
earplugs, we survived the party night. Actually the partying was not too bad.
The compound and local village dogs were the main cause of sleeplessness. Avril
got up in the very early hours to try and quieten the dogs – no success.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We spent a relaxing day
at the beach, reading and playing Scrabble – Gabrielle won!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the late afternoon
Ian & Heather arrived from Mushroom
Camp. The road to Livingstonia had been so bad they could not make it to the
village. We shared our dinner with them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 6 – 28/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Another relaxing day.
Ray had developed a serious rash on his neck, so we went to the village clinic
next to the camp. The doctor thought it was a bite and gave him some cortisone
cream. Fingers crossed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Gabrielle won the Scrabble
again and managed a word with all 7 letters!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril negotiated with a
local chap for some fish for dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 7 – 1/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our Chitimba, our taxi
driver had stayed the 3 days waiting for us and drove us the next leg. The
route was down the flat area beside Lake Malawi. Past Nkotakota, which whilst
it has an exotic name and place in history was now “just” another largish town.
We did manage to get some fresh bread there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The route was not all
that scenic and was developed for agriculture most of the way. The road was in
very good condition. There were a few police road blocks and we were quickly
waved through when there was one.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove to Salima and
did some shopping. Again, the local market did not have a variety of fresh
produce, but we could get enough to manage.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived in the mid
afternoon at Cool Runnings, a nice grassed camp site at Senga Bay.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At the camp were a group
of fellas from RSA who were riding Vespas to Dublin to raise awareness for the
Children’s Hospital in Cape Town. We had sundowners with them over looking Lake
Malawi. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 270 km; 5 hrs; S 13<sup>0</sup> 43’
50.9’’ E 034<sup>0</sup> 37’ 08.8’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray by taxi. The driver
had decided to stay with us the rest of the journey. $ 100<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 8 – 2/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A day relaxing, swimming
etc. To get some exercise, we went for a long walk to a nearby lodge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 9 – 3/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did some shopping in
Salima on the way to Cape Maclear. There was little fruit & veg around, not
much variety (lots of tomatoes) and poor quality.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The drive to Cape
Maclear was along a high quality road. The route was quite flat and the way
continued to be lined with crops – a lot of maize. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stayed at the Chembe
Eagles Nest and when we arrived we met up with Ian & Heather. In the
afternoon we went for a swim. The sunset
from the rocks beside the camp ground was spectacular. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 182 km; 4 hrs; S 14<sup>0</sup> 00’ 44.4’’
E 034<sup>0</sup> 51’ 03.5’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray by taxi again. $ 120<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 10 – 4/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Gabrielle & Ray went
diving at an Island near Cape Maclear and Avril snorkelled at the same site. As
we had not dived for some time, so we did a small refresher course. Then we
did one dive at a site called the Rock
Garden and another dive in a more protected cover. The visibility was ~ 6 m and
we saw an abundance of the Ciclids that are endemic to the area and which are
the reason for its World Heritage
listing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It was very hot in the
afternoon and we rested in the shade. Then, after another beautiful sunset, we
had a BBQ for dinner. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 11 – 5/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A day of complete
laziness! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 12 – 6/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">With our taxi driver we
left Cape Maclear and (probably) for the last time climbed out of the Rift
valley. As always the views across the lake and valley floor were stunning. The
drive to Lilongwe was through rolling hills and appeared to be quite lush. The
whole route was dedicated to agriculture. Again, the road was high quality and
for the 1<sup>st</sup> time there was a heavy police presence monitoring road
rules.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived into Lilongwe
at the midday rush hour and after a bit of trial and error found Annies Lodge
in Area 47.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the afternoon we went
into the Old Town for a snack and looked at the supermarkets.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the evening,
Gabrielle’s last night with us we went to a very nice Italian restaurant, Mama
Mias.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 222 km; 4 hrs; S 013<sup>0</sup> 57’
18.4’’ E 033<sup>0</sup> 46’ 03.4’’<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 13 – 7/3/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had time in the
morning for one last scrabble game – Ray won. Then it was off to the airport
and a sad farewell to Gabrielle. After dropping her off, we did a bit of
shopping (to spend our last Malawi Kwacha and set off for Zambia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road was in good
condition. The countryside did not appear to be as fertile as other areas in
Malawi.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Malawi formalities
were completed very quickly and efficiently. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Malawi
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It was great to have
Gabrielle with us for this section of the trip. The Malawian roads were
generally excellent, with the exception of the Livingstonia road. There was only
a minor amount of begging – not enough to be annoying. However, we were mainly
in established camp grounds a lot of the time. Our accommodation was generally
good. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We are now definitely on
the big truck overland route. A lot of the camp sites had these massive
vehicles with, generally, folks in their 20s – 30s. The partying was not too
excessive, but did cause some sleep deprivation.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Riese Know How map
was OK, again the mileages being a big error. 5/10<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Bradt guide, 2010
edition, was dated (did they really update in the 2010??) with camp grounds
closed or not suitable for vehicles etc. In addition, the prices were way out
of touch with reality.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-76806056837157045312013-02-20T23:11:00.000-08:002013-02-20T23:11:03.388-08:00Tanzania 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 16 – 4/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A rather listless day.
After a leisurely start, we had breakfast with Funmi we took the vehicle for a
run to ensure the batteries were charged for the duration it will be
stationary. Again the traffic in Dar was thick, but the drivers well behaved.
We then did some emails, caught up with global news, Avril did some clothes
washing and ironing and we packed some clothes for our upcoming safari. Funmi
cooked a delicious dinner. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 17 – 5/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray filled the water
tank on the vehicle and we made our way to the airport through the Dar traffic.
As Ludo had predicted, the Precision Air flight was 30 min late. Still, we made
it to Arusha and the colonial Arusha Hotel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did not have long to
wait until the “kids” arrived from Australia via Doha, Dar and Kilimanjaro
Airport. We were super excited to see them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Dinner was a buffet at
the hotel and a great time to catch up and chat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Guest blogger entry – we
were very excited to catch up with and see Ray and Avril (Mum & Dad), the car
drive from the airport could not go fast enough! As we drove the 45 mins from
Kilimanjaro Airport to Arusha we could already see that the landscape was very
prosperous. Everyone and everything looked very healthy and well fed, with
fields full of crops and large groups of good looking domestic animals, mainly
cows and goats – some might say that Cameroon was already a distant memory!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Arusha Hotel S 03<sup>0</sup>
22’ 22.0’’ E 036<sup>0</sup> 41’ 41.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 18 – 6/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We set off from Arusha
with our driver Livingston from Leopard Tours, who will be our driver/guide for
the entirety of our safari, to arrive in Serena Lodge at Lake Manyara and
arrived just in time for lunch! Lunch was over-looking the park that we would
drive to in the afternoon. During lunch we had a competition of which animal we
would see first, Gabrielle won, we saw a Zebra first, outside the game park and
very far from home! Second was Hayley, a squirrel, which was in line with our
spotting in Cameroon, already we were ahead of our animal sightings after half
a day, compared to that in Cameroon. After lunch we relaxed and had a swim in
the infinity-like pool overlooking around 1,000 acres of plains. After lunch
was our first game drive, we left the lodge at 3pm, with slightly low
expectations given our experiences in Cameroon…not seeing many animals. On the
drive on the way to the park we stopped at a look-out point, as it was Hayley’s
first game viewing we let her use the super-dooper binoculars, she spotted
wilderbeast, giraffe and zebra, we all
took a deep sigh of relief, thankfully there were animals in the park! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">With much excitement we
entered the park, we were very quickly greeted by baboons and small black faced
ververt monkeys! Hayley had high expectations and suggested that today was the
day that we would see at least wilderbeast, zebra, giraffe, bush buck, hippos,
warthogs, Thomson gazelle, mongoose, elephant, buffalo, impala, dik dik and
most importantly a leopard…and that we did, we saw all these things within
three hours! Ray asked Livingston if he could please see a tree sitting lion
because he had never seen one…and that we did, actually we saw four of them!
The day was a success all round and we got to see the start of the great migration!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Lake Manyara Serena S 03<sup>0</sup> 22’ 22.2’’ E 035<sup>0</sup>
49’ 39.8’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 19 – 7/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We set off at 8am as we
had a long drive ahead of us to get to Ndutu National Park and Lake Ndutu. The
drive started off well, Livingston filled the car up with fuel to last us the
drive and also the game viewing for the next few days ahead (although he will
probably secretly fill the fuel up whilst we are sleeping). We entered the
National Park and again we were greeted by lots of baboons, some getting a bit
too close to the tourists! The drive was long and the road for about two hours
was quite rough with heavy corrugations…therefore lots of dust. We saw many
wilderbeasts and zebras starting their long journey up north in search of fresh
water and food. Livingston explained that it’s generally a happy marriage
between wilderbeast and zebras. Wilderbeast sense water so the zebras stick
with them and the zebras are the ones that know the way up north so the
wilderbeast stick with the zebras. There were lots of Thomson gazelle and Grants
gazelle along the way, although they were heavily outnumbered by the
wilderbeast and zebras. Once we were around the top of the crater we saw a
group of six young male elephants wondering through the long grass and not very
concerned about us being there, although there was a little bit of ear flapping
as if to just gently warn us not to come any closer. The guides seem very good
at keeping their distance from the animals and the animals seem to not be very
worried about humans and cars passing by, a happy existence! There were lots of
Maasai communities along the way with very large herds of cattle and goats. In
one large parkland that we drove around there were large Maasai communities
with their livestock grazing and about 100m away were large herds of
wilderbeast and zebras and a couple of harterbeest. The land is quite green, a
lot greener than you would expect, especially because it’s now the dry season. The
next corner we turned around and over a rise was one of the most amazing
scenes, around 20 giraffes grazing on medium height trees on the side of a
large rolling hillside. It was like a scene out of the movie Jurassic Park,
they are such prehistoric looking creatures and so tall compared to the rest of
the countryside. We have noticed in all herds of animals there are a lot of
young, so the breeding regime they have going on is working well! We also saw a
lioness with two cubs, probably around two years old, just resting in the long
grass near a waterhole in the open plain. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived at the place
that will be our campsite for the next three nights, and when I say
campsite…there are flushing toilets and running water in the en-suite attached
to your tent! We were given a briefing when we arrived, ‘please do not leave
your tent at night, however if you have to you must make sure you are escorted
by a Maasai warrior. A stark reminder that we are in the middle of a real life
David Attenborough situation, there could be a lion around any corner! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The afternoon game drive
started off the same as the first, Hayley ‘suggesting’ that we should see at
least one more leopard, given that we had seen one on the first game drive…and
that we did! A leopard fast asleep in a tree! We also saw the usual suspects
(wilderbeast, zebras, Thomson gazelle, impala, grants gazelle, warthog) and we
saw two lioness’ very slowly walking towards the open plain, they had very full
stomachs, they had just had an early dinner! We stopped the car and they came
so close to us because they wanted to sit in the shade of our car, amazing! Not
too far away was a lion sitting in the shade, not that far away from the baby
wilderbeast he and his lioness’ had just eaten. He was very impressive with his
lightly ginger coloured mane, again not worried at all about the presence of
our car and the many tourists taking prized photos of him. Once the lion
decided that he would like to get a bit of privacy, he relieved himself in
front of all the cars and then went to find the rest of his pride. Random fact
– vultures are so desperate for food sometimes they eat the spoor of the lion!!There
are always flamingos lining the shores of the nearest lake constantly stomping
and nuzzling the water for their food. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">One our way back to camp
Ray commented that the day is never over until we see a Jackal…and that we did,
Hayley spotted one deep in the long grass. He is a black backed jackal. When we
got back to the camp they had cold washers ready for us to wash our hands and
showers already prepared, a wonderful welcome home! Every night at the camp we
were served a three course dinner with drinks included, it’s amazing what some
people can cook in the middle of nowhere! We were escorted back to our tents by
the Maasai and then had an early night as tomorrow would be a big day, we
needed maximum concentration levels available! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ndutu Explorer Lodge; S
02<sup>0</sup> 58’ 59.9’’ E 034<sup>0</sup> 58’ 56.4’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 20 – 8/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Today started off with a
sighting of approx. 25 giraffes surrounding a waterhole all preparing to drink,
it was a magnificent sight. We have some great photos of a few of them
spreading their front legs so they can drink, they look a little bit
uncoordinated, but they have obviously done this before! Hayley has decided
that giraffes are probably her favourite safari/Africa animal. We drove a
little bit further along the nearly dried up river bed and could see a lot of
movement from the herd of wilderbeest and zebras in the distance. In the
clearing to the left of the dried river bed was a huge stampead of wilderbeest
and zebras from over the hill, we stopped car and waited right in the middle of
the pack for at least 10-15 minutes and they just kept coming. It was actually
like the scene out of the Lion King when Simba is down in the gorge and is
nearly trampled by all the wilderbeests. It was a great sight to see and it
captured the essence of the great migration! We also saw a tawny eagle and
lilac breasted roller birds. One of the predators we hadn’t yet seen on this
safari was the hyena, today was the day. We saw a couple of them hiding in
dried swamp areas and long grass patches, they were the spotted hyenda, which
are mostly found in this area. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The next major spotting
we had was a very large group of cars gathered in the distance, Livingston was
madly on the radio, so we headed for a random tree in the distance. We arrived
to two magnificent cheetahs, two males, sitting in the shade of the tree. One
was asleep and the other was keeping a look out. They both acknowledged our
presence and then promptly went back to sleep. We were stoked, our first
cheetah sighting with the kids since our last holiday in Zambia! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">One the way to another
section of the park Gabrielle spotted an owl asleep in the tree and Hayley
spotted some ostriches in the distance. We started to predict Livingston’s
behaviour, he would drive with much more of a mission when one of his
colleagues had communicated over the radio about a particular sighting, this
one was no different. We made a quick dash across a very large plain to see
another cheetah sitting upright in the long grass, potentially looking for
dinner with many of the hundreds of gazelle, wilderbeest babies and zebras
around. Just when we thought our luck of cheetah sightings in one day couldn’t
get any better we made another made dash for something else…5 more cheetash, a
mother and 4 youngsters, probably about 1.5 – 2 years old. She was sitting
upright in the longer grass with the cubs not that far away, she was clearly
eyeing off the gazelle in the foreground. We waited patiently in the distance,
all the drivers kept back so as not to interrupt a potential kill and dinner
for her cubs. We waited for about 30 minutes but nothing happened, so we went a
little bit closer. The zebras that were quite close could see the cheetahs so
they were very aware, however no one else had seen them. When we moved a bit
closer the mother stalked a bit closer to her prey and had clearly told the
cubs to stay put otherwise they would be sent to bed without their dinner. She
stalked and stalked and they stayed put, however nothing eventuated from her
stalking. Either she wasn’t that hungry or something disturbed her, or maybe
she couldn’t decide which one of the hundreds of animals to go for first. We
waited a bit longer and the cubs came so close to our car at one stage we
thought they were going to jump on it just like they did in those videos on
YouTube, however no such luck, or maybe this was a fortunate occurrence. She
changed direction and started walking away with her cubs closely behind, it was
then time for our very late lunch. We were told later that evening that nothing
eventuated from her kill as some other tourists waited until 6pm to see if
anything would happen. On our way back to the campsite for lunch we spotted two
lioness under a tree, they were heavily panting, we thought it was because of
the heat. We took a few photos and then moved on, however we saw a dead
wilderbeest about 50m away from them, which they had obviously just caught.
Livingston thought that they had just caught it and would drag it into the
shade later and eat it when they had recovered and it was a bit cooler. It was
now time for our lunch! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After lunch we found a
large herd of wilderbeest crossing one of the smaller lakes. This confirmed our
opinion that wilderbeest aren’t the smartest animals on earth, as they could
have easily gone around it if they thought about it for 2 seconds. Although, we
could be underestimating them, they could be practising for the crossing of the
Mara which will happen for them in a few months’ time. One of the highlights of
the afternoon was that we saw a lioness and her three cubs, they were probably
around 2 years old, according to Livingston. He agreed with all the other
vehicles to move backwards as we thought the mother was going to hunt one of
the nearby wilderbeest or zebras for dinner, although nothing happened. The day
wouldn’t be complete until we had seen a jackal, and that we did, not too far
from home. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Once we were showered
and dressed we all sat around the campfire which was prepared for us each night
to share stories of our sightings that day. A fantastic way to end the day! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 21 – 9/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Today started with some
more anticipation, we couldn’t believe our luck in seeing all the animals we
had seen in the last couple of days! Not far from the campsite and relatively
close to the lake Gabrielle spotted some movement in the short grass in the
distance. It was a family of bat eared foxes, 8 of them all together!
Livingston informed us that this was a very rare sighting as they are night
animals and are also very shy. We were able to get quite close to them as they
sat and soaked up the warmth from the early sunlight hours. some great photos
of their very large ears and cute little faces. Next on the agenda was the
hippo lake, we saw at least 20 of them occasionally bobbing their heads up
nostrils and ears first to see what was going on and to take a breath. We saw a
mother and her baby, she was lying in the shallow water on her side so that her
baby could drink her milk, he had to keep popping up for air which made the
whole process quite entertaining. As we were stopped next to a drying up
riverbed we came across a group of zebras trying to skim the last dregs of
clear water left from the top of the puddles, this would soon turn to think
mud. We then noticed a group of very pretty birds in a tree nearby, they were
fishers love birds, they looked like parrots, with orange beaks and green and
yellow bodies, very beautiful. We decided that today was so far the day of
discovering new things that we hadn’t seen before and things that aren’t
usually on the documentaries you see of Africa. Next on the schedule was a middle
aged male elephant playing in a waterhole, he was having a wonderful time
splashing himself with water, stomping in the mud and rolling around until he
was caked in the watery dirt. We were able to stop the car quite close to the
waterhole, I think he knew we were enjoying the show he was putting on as he
continued to fool around but kept a keen eye on us. When he had decided that
he’d had enough he left the water and came quite close to our car, we were
instructed to stay still and remain quiet until he left. He flapped his ears a
little bit and then wondered off into the reeds to have some morning tea. I
must say it’s a little bit daunting having a very large elephant directly in
front of your car when you know that it could do some serious damage if it
wanted to! We then made another spotting, some eland in the far distance, they
are very shy and very large, they stand out compared to any of the other
gazelles and bucks. We got a couple of great photos albeit from a distance. Before
we went in for lunch we also saw another lion family with two females, two
juvenile females and a male. They were resting in the shade of the long grass
and as we watched they moved into the shade of some trees close by and weren’t
worried at all by our presence, they must see hundreds of tourists each year. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After lunch we saw some
more interesting animals including the leopard tortoise and the crested crane,
they are both very beautiful! We saw a few secretary birds, they have very long
legs and have black feathers down to their knee which makes them look like
they’re wearing stockings. Apparently they attach/kill their prey by stomping
on them in a typing fashion, hence their name! we thought we’d seen enough
cheetahs on this holiday but there were other plans for us, we found two more
cheetah brothers sitting in the shade of a tree. We found them because of Livingston’s
radio and there was about 12 cars gathered around them. When the cheetahs
started to move towards the nearby herd of wilderbeest all the cars started to
move with them. Livingston tried to agree with them via the radio that if we
all hung back away from them then we might see them making a kill as the last
thing we want to happen is the car to be between the cheetahs and their prey.
The cheetahs started to run towards the herd, the zebras had already seen them
and were making a fuss, very soon after the wilderbeests started to wise up.
There was a lot of dust and a bit of chasing however the cheetahs has been
interrupted by all the on looking cars and didn’t make a kill, they were
targeting one of the newly born babies, however the mother stayed furthest away
with the majority of the herd between her and the cheetahs. No such luck for
us! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We saw another couple of
lioness’ and a male lying beside a waterhole, their bellies were so full, they
had clearly just had lunch! One our way back to the campsite Livingston made
the spotting of the trip, a leopard asleep in a tree with a baby wilderbeest
higher in the branches ready for her dinner. Within a few minutes there were
about 15 other cars at the tree waiting to catch a glimpse of her and her kill.
Her coat was so beautiful, you can see why they were hunted so fiercely and why
they are one of the ‘big five’ animals. She was clearly so tired, her body was
limp on the branch that she was lying on with all four legs including her tail
dangling down from her body; if there was even a hint of a breeze her legs
would have sway she was that relaxed. We had another lovely dinner at the
campsite, with another fantastic fire!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 22 – 10/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We started the day early
in order to make it to Sopo Lodge on the edge of the Ngorongoro Crater so that
we could have an afternoon at leisure. We took a relatively short game drive in
Ndutu before we left and still managed to see the Leopard from the day earlier
eating her kill up the tree. We also saw a Black backed jackal carrying a baby
wilderbeest’s leg in her mouth, probably taking it home for her family. A large
group of hyenas were spotted by Hayley who were not that far from our campsite,
although they looked like they had just had a big feed as their stomachs were
huge and there was still blood around their mouths. As we left Ndutu and drove
along the Serengeti border more Eland were spotted in the distance along with a
number of hyendas and millions of zebras, wilderbeasts and Thomson and grants
gazelle. We also saw our first camellion, camouflaged green on this occasion,
just on the side of the road. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We have noticed that all
the drivers (and there are a lot of them with tourists) are all in good spirits
all the time and are always friendly to other drivers and tourists. It’s a very
plentiful land and without sounding too cheesy, it’s a wonderful ecosystem that
appears to work superbly together to ensure that all have enough to eat. The
water is very quickly drying up so the animals will very quickly leave this
area and head further north into the Serengeti and into Kenya. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived at Sopa Lodge
on the edge of the Ngorongoro Crater in time for a late lunch and time to relax
in the afternoon. The view of the crater below is incredible and Ray was
particularly excited as this would be his second visit, after his first one
back in 1978, he had great hopes to see some of the animals he saw last time
including rhinos, black maned lions and serval cats. The accommodation is
pretty good, although very touristy and the food is ok. The huge bonus of this
accommodation is that the entry road to and from the crater is practically on
the doorstep, whereas other accommodation means that you would need to drive at
least 40 – 60 mins to enter the crater. Off to bed to dream of rhinos and the
potential of seeing all the ‘big five’ animals in one day!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ngorongoro Sopo Lodge S
03<sup>0</sup> 09’ 16.1’’ E 035<sup>0</sup> 40’ 34.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 23 – 11/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The day started with
much anticipation as we hoped that today would be the day to complete our
sightings of the ‘big five’, rhinos being the missing animal! As you enter the
crater from the north east side (the entrance near Sopa Lodge) you immediately
notice how green and lush the vegetation is, it’s thick grass approx. waist
height. There is water in the crater all year round which means that the
animals never have to leave to migrate north to find water so they are quite relaxed around cars as they
would see around 50 – 100 each day. The usual suspects are in the crater except
for giraffe and impala as there is not enough of their kinds of food. The
noticeable difference initially is the presence of buffalo, there are a number
of herds at 50 strong, and the usual situation of the older bulls shoved out of
the herd into one pack, this could be a big scary if you weren’t in a car!
There are also many more hyendas and warthogs, with matching families too, than
we have seen in Ndutu and other areas. For a relatively small space of land the
vegetation is very different on the southern side, it is much dryer with more
large rocks and trees (as we looked for rhinos we often confused them with
rocks). The flamingos in the lake are amazing, giving the edges a nice shade of
pink colour. We had lunch in the crater but were told to stay in the car as the
kites would steel our lunch out of our hands if we ate outside. We stopped by a
hippo pool which was beautiful, very clean with lots of vegetation close by for
them to graze on at night. Obviously we weren’t keen to leave the crater until
we had seen a rhino, as we had only seen one sitting down very far in the
distance earlier in the day, although we couldn’t be sure if it was a rhino or
a rock. We needed proof! There was a lot of rain in the afternoon and we think
this brought the rhinos out because we saw four all in the course of half an
hour, amazing! The closest they got to the road was about 100 metres, however
if you have binoculars, which we do, you could see them very clearly munching
away on the freshly rained on grass. One of the highlights of our Tanzania
trip! We also saw two prides of lions and just as we were on the way out of the
crater Ray spotted something in the distance, no one could work out what it was
initially, after much speculation we could clearly see that it was two male
black maned lions and one female, probably away from the rest of the herd for
mating. On the final ascent out of the crater Livingston spotted a serval cat
crossing the road, incredible timing! We watched it stalk through the long
grass only about 5 metres from the car and pounce on a grass hopper or
something similar. He had a beautiful coat and was very playful, a very rare
sighting, Ray was very happy! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 24 – 12/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Today started with an
early drive from Sopa Lodge to Tarangire National Park to the Sopa Lodge there,
approx. 3.5 hours. One of the warnings on entry to the park is about the Tsetse
flies, so we lathered ourselves in insect repellent and away we went. On entry
to the park and making our way to Sopa Lodge for lunch we spotted a group of
baboons crossing the road very slowly, it had at least 200 members, of all
different ages. It was fantastic to see the younger ones playing with each
other and pulling each other’s tails in order to fall off tree branches, all a
lot of fun. We also saw a pride of lions drinking at a water hole and a cheetah
resting under a tree with two youngsters, probably 3 years old. We saw two
families of warthogs running across the road, their nickname in Tanzania is not
Pumba from the Lion King movie but Radio Tanzania, as their tails are like
ariels when they run along – very amusing! The main animal in Tarangire is
elephants, you are expected to see around 500 each day; we managed to see quite
a few on the way to the lodge. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We checked in at the
hotel and on the way to our rooms saw Hyrex who live very close to our rooms,
apparently they are descendants of the elephant family, however they are
approximately the size of a large rabbit, with no tail. The can jump from roof
to roof without much effort and have very cute faces. We had a swim and then
left for our afternoon drive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On our afternoon drive
we saw a group of mongoose who had appeared to have taken up residence in a
large termite round. They were very cute and their little heads kept popping
out from different hole. The other highlight of the afternoon drive was coming
across a large herd of elephants blocking the road. Some came a little too
close for comfort, but it is still quite amazing to see them up so close.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a lovely dinner in
the dining room, a very tasty buffet selection, early to bed for our full day
of game viewing the next day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Tarangire Sopa Lodge; S
03<sup>0</sup> 54’ 26.4’’ E 036<sup>0</sup> 05’ 42.7’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 25 – 13/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a reasonably
early breakfast as Tarangire is noticeably hotter than other places we have
been in Tanzania, as we had planned to spend the hottest part of the day
relaxing by the pool. On our game drive we saw many elephants all in different
groups, the group of baboons again and many more interesting birds, such as the
Buffalo bird which is one of the small five animals and a leopard tortoise,
also one of the small five. We saw many different stalks and cranes, but today
was the first day during our whole safari that we didn’t see
lions/cheetah/leopard, incredible! We saw many elephants bathing, drinking and
generally playing and on the way home we saw a baby elephants that Livingston
predicted was around 1 week old. It was walking under its mother’s belly with a
couple of protectors either side of it, a lion would have very little chance of
attaching it from there! Once the mother and baby had passed we move the car to
another spot which we knew would see another herd of elephants pass, Livingston
said to be quite and don’t move much and they should pass right by the car,
which they did, all 50 of them, quite confronting! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At dinner we were
treated to a song and dance by the local people, all the staff at the hotel
were involved and it created a fantastic atmosphere, they are such good
singers! We had an early night as we have a 6am departure the next day to fly
to Zanzibar. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 26 – 14/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We flew to Zanzibar and
arrived just in time for lunch, we checked into our hotel, Dhow Palace Hotel in
Stone town and went for lunch at a local restaurant. The hotel is like an old
house, with 4 stories and a courtyard in the middle with a swimming pool. In
the afternoon after lunch we rested as the weather is very hot and very humid,
as we wanted to walk around Stone town later in the cool of the afternoon.
Avril studied the books on Zanzibar as one of her friends lived here as a
child, so she played tour guide in the afternoon and took us to the sites that
her friend would have spent time. The town/buildings look like a combination of
Barcelona/Italy/Marrakech with the small winding streets and not many street
signs. There is still evidence that the British used to be here with the large
government building with very high ceilings in order to let the cooler air in. The
town is very run-down with most of the buildings needing a lot of TLC to bring
them back to their former glory. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">For dinner we booked a
table at the Serena Lodge on the water to celebrate Peter and a Hayley’s
engagement, a 5 course seafood dinner complete with special wine to celebrate
the occasion. A lovely evening was enjoyed by all! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Dhow Palace ; S 06<sup>0</sup>
09’ 51.2’’ E 039<sup>0</sup> 11’ 15.4’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 27 – 15/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We decided that today we
would visit the beach for the early part of the day before it got too hot, so
we went to the northern part of the island, about an hour drive from stone
town, Kendwa Beach. We sat on banana lounges in the shade for most of the day
and had a lovely lunch at the beach resort we were visiting. In the afternoon
we rested and then went down to the street food market to check it out before
we had dinner at the restaurant Archipelago. The street markets sold meat
skewers, mini pizzas and freshly juiced sugar cane. There were also a number of
groups of young guys having a great time egging each other on and jumping into
the ocean, each one doing a different jump trick each time they went, a great
competition to watch, they were having a great time. A lot of the guide books
said that the touts were very bad in Zanzibar and to look out at all times,
however we didn’t have any problems at all. Everyone seemed very friendly,
there was also a music festival on at the time in the old fort building, so
there was a great atmosphere. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 28 – 16/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Today we flew from
Zanzibar to Mafia Island via Dar Es Salaam, two very small planes, Gabrielle
didn’t feel so well on both flights. We arrived at our hotel at lunch time,
it’s by the beach and have lovely individual huts as accommodation. We spent
the afternoon relaxing, sleeping, playing pool and catching up on emails and
reading. The hotel is called Butiama Beach lodge, it’s wonderful and also has a swimming pool. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Butiama Beach lodge; S 07<sup>0</sup>
55’ 13.2’’ E 039<sup>0</sup> 38’ 52.8’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 29 – 17/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Mafia Island is known
for its whale sharks, so we organised to leave at 8am to have a morning dive
with them. The boat ride took about 45 minutes before we came across one, there
were a couple of other boats around at the same time however that didn’t
matter. The water wasn’t very deep, probably about 6 – 10 metres, the sharks
were already having breakfast, plankton! We quickly got our snorkelling stuff
on and were given the thumbs up to jump in. Due to the visibility being quite
poor, it took some time to get your bearings. This lead to a scary moment when
Avril jumped in and ended up face to face with one friendly whale shark!
Basically the next hour or so consisted of jumping in, trying to swim alongside
a whale shark for as long as possible and then getting back on the boat once it
had swum away. And then repeat. Tiring work but great fun. The whale sharks
themselves seemed fairly unconcerned about our presence. They swim around
accompanied by an entourage of many small fish who swim very close and receive
the protection of being in close proximity to such a large creature. With the
exception of their wide mouths, they are very much like a normal shark and swim
with a similar motion. They have spotted skin and big tail fin for propulsion.
It was wonderful to be able to get up close and personal with them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The afternoon was
another lazy one spent by the pool reading our books and indulging in a
cocktail or two!! Dinner was 3 courses and absolutely beautiful – a great taste
of local seafood from the region.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 30 – 18/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We organised that we
would have a picnic on an island close by and also do some snorkelling. After a
night of quite strong winds the sea was still a bit rough, so the trip to the
island was a bit choppy. We arrived after about 20 minutes after having seen a
whale shark on the way. We all snorkelled except Hayley, as she is scared of deep
water. There were lots of beautifully coloured fish, most notably those with
particular Australian Football League colours (Richmond, Sydney, Collingwood
etc). We also saw a manta ray, some clams and larger fish like parrot fish. After
about an hour we got back onto the boat where the captain had prepared our
lunch, fish, that would be cooked on a fire on the island once we arrived. We
took the 5 minute trip to the island and unpacked the boat, it was still a bit
windy. We set up a shade area with poles and cloth the guys from the lodge had
brought along and put some mats down. The captain of the boat whisked the fish
away and cooked them on a fire in the protection of a sand dune. Lunch was
served with salad and fruit to finish, we also had drinks and met a lovely
young couple (one English and the other South African) who were also on our
boat. After lunch we went for a swim and came across another whale shark that
was swimming around in the shallow water. When we got back onto the boat we
tried to find it, the captain signalled for us to prepare our snorkelling gear,
but we couldn’t find him. On the way home we saw a couple of dolphins, although
very briefly, riding a wave. The sea was still quite rough on the way back and
luckily for Ray, he sat in the seat that seemed to bear the brunt of most of
the waves, he was absolutely drenched when we got back to shore, although it
was very funny! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a swim in the
pool when we got back and all had cocktails and popcorn to end the day. This
was followed by a fantastic three course dinner with grilled tuna as the main,
it was absolutely delicious!! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 31 – 19/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Todaywas the last day of
holidays for some of us (Peter and Hayley), so we decided to have a quiet day
at the lodge. We had a long breakfast, visited the pool, read our books and
chatted, it was a lovely day!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 32 – 20/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a final swim we
left the fabulous Butiama Beach lodge to fly to Dar. We sat at the Dar airport lounge for
a few hours and then Peter & Hayley booked through for their flights back
to Oz. Avril, Gabrielle and Ray went to Funmi & Lodewijk place,
theoretically for one night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After doing some
shopping and packing the vehicle, we logged onto the internet to find an urgent
message from Expedia. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avrils flight to Lilongwe
had been cancelled. After a lot of investigation we discovered that there was
an indefinite strike in Malawi and all the airports were closed.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The worst situation possible,
stuck in Dar with no idea of when things may improve. To make matters more
difficult, it seems that Malawi is a very difficult country to get into. </span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-21083001314521879282013-02-04T00:57:00.001-08:002013-02-04T00:57:16.584-08:00Tanzania 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 20/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The border formalities
are some distance from the border, maybe even 10 km. We had the impression that
the border staff were trying to be helpful, but the immigration formalities
took some time. The good news was that it was only $ 50 each for 90 days and
only a stamp in the passport. They did not take a whole page for a visa.
Customs was completed quickly and our Yellow Fever vaccination Certificates
were checked. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove to Ngara and
stayed overnight at the refuge of the NGO, WomenCraft. The view from the
cottage is spectacular, right across a valley into Rwanda and the lakes etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 314 km; 6 hrs; S 02<sup>0</sup> 29’
19.2’’ E 030<sup>0</sup> 38’ 48.8’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 21/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our objective for the
day was Singida. We had heard varying reports about the road so set off early.
The first ~ 100 km is potholed but after that the road was in a very good state
and we made good time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Initially the scenery
was interesting with rolling hills, but then petered out to a plain with small
hillocks. The whole way seemed to be cultivated with paddy rice the predominant
crop.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As we entered Singida we
were again assaulted by a fierce rain storm with hail etc. We managed to
withdraw some funds from an ATM, buy (RSA) chocolate and check into the Aqua
Vita resort. There are no camp sites documented in the area.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 621 km; 9 hrs; S 04<sup>0</sup> 48’
18.9’’ E 034<sup>0</sup> 44’ 12.6’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 22/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again we woke to a flat
tyre. After breakfast we drove down town to get someone to look at the tyre.
Inspection showed that the rim had a small crack. So, we replaced the tyre with
the spare and put a tube in the damaged rim. The road from Singida to Arusha
has recently been upgraded and except for a section under construction, it is
high standard tar. Unfortunately, the ridiculous use of aggressive rumble
strips and sharp edge bumps continued.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We dropped down off the
inland plain and the vegetation changed to savannah type scrub. From a long
distance out of Arusha we caught sight of Mt Meru (5<sup>th</sup> highest
mountain in Africa!) and watched as it rose to fill almost our full view.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In Arusha we changed
some money, did a bit of shopping, found the Toyota garage and booked a
service, had the vehicle washed and checked into the famous/infamous Masai
Camp. Bradt Guide (Latest available May 2010) said $ 5/person/night; charge now
is $ 8. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 331 km; 5 hrs; S 03<sup>0</sup> 23’
07.2’’ E 036<sup>0</sup> 43’ 13.4’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 23/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were up early to get
the vehicle serviced. It turned out that both front and rear brakes needed
replacing and this cost a small fortune. The regular service was also quite
expensive. Our experience is that if you use the recognised Toyota service
garages, then the cost is very high. You can use a non-Toyota garage and get
the service etc for a lower cost, but at this time we prefer to have the
comfort of knowing the people who have worked on the vehicle have been Toyota
trained and that we will get genuine Toyota parts. But, this does come at a
large cost. This is the same for Toyota everywhere.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Whilst the vehicle was being
serviced we wandered around Arusha, Ray got a haircut, we did some internet
stuff etc<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 – 24/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had breakfast in town
at an internet café/patisserie before setting off to Moshi. We had missed the
opportunity to get a picture of Mt Meru with no clouds, so on the way out of
town we quickly snapped a shot of the mountain with a cloud skirt.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then, we caught a
glimpse of the snow capped top of Mt Kilimanjaro peaking through the clouds. An
excited exclamation from Ray: “I’ve been there!” Ray noticed there was a sports
bar in Moshi and after a bit of looking we found it. Nirvana for Avril – we had
lunch and she watched an Australian Open tennis semi-final.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to the Mt
Kilimanjaro park gate which is also the start of the climb. Ray noticed that
the stone cairn recognising the initial European assent had been moved. At the
gate there were a lot of climbers who had just descended and others preparing
to make the journey. Ray recalled that when he with Jim Barratt and Ian
(Chesty) Bond had climbed the mountain there was only one route and apart from
2 young German lads, there was no one else on the mountain. Now there are a
number of new routes open and large numbers of tourists.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove back to Moshi
and attempted to check into the Honey badger site, only to be told they did not
take campers anymore! So, we drove on to the Keys hotel and camped there.
Initially they wanted $ 15/person/night, but Ray pointed out that the Bradt
guide said $ 5 and managed to get it for that.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It is a source of ongoing
frustration that the guide books, no matter how new, substantially understate
the actual cost of things. Do the guides deliberately understate the costs or
do the establishments deliberately give the authors low prices to entice
people??<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; S 03<sup>0</sup> 19’ 54.8’’ E 037<sup>0</sup>
21’ 46.8’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> Long, long ago...</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 6 – 25/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were fortunate to see
Mt Kilimanjaro without any clouds - Africa’s highest mountain showing both
peak! We did not waste the opportunity to get a few pictures.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road again was in
good condition and we drove towards the beach. The country side became very
arid. In places looked like desert and in other places like the Karoo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the middle of nowhere
(Korogwe) we spied what looked like a decent bar/eaterie. So, we stopped and to
Avril’s great joy they put the tennis on the TV.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove through to the
Peponi resort/camp. The road to Tanga was good but south from there it is
gravel with sharp stones. Given our current theory on the BFGoodrich tyres, we
drove this section very cautiously. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Rayl driving; 380 km; 7 hrs; S 05<sup>0</sup> 17’ 13.9’’
E 039<sup>0</sup> 03’ 58.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 7 – 26/1/13 to Day
13 – 1/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We took a long break at
the beach. Time to relax for a bit. The Peponi resort had a restaurant and the
Capricorn resort next door had a very basic shop & great pizzas! Between
the two establishments we managed to get sustenance! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We celebrated our 34<sup>th</sup>
wedding anniversary on the 27<sup>th</sup> January with a seafood platter to
share and Avril had a chocolate brownie, which she did not share!! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We walked to a local
village the next day and bought some fresh fish to BBQ with other overlanders
in the resort.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The beach has a large
tidal zone and is really not a swimming beach. But, the resort does have a
pool. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Otherwise, not a lot to
report!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 14 – 2/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On the road again.
Although there is now a gravel road all the way down coast we decided to take
the safer, inland asphalt road. We also decided to enter Dar Es Salaam from the
north. During the day we were stopped by a number of police checks. Most had
radar guns, but we did not speed!!! So, they decided to try and tackle us for
an un-road worthy vehicle – a crack in the windscreen. But, Ray managed to talk
his way out of these attempts.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road is generally in
good condition and there are some road works. At one of the road works
diversions a truck had lost it load. The trucks and buses were stopped but in
typical African style an off-road track around the site was soon formed and at
least us small vehicles were quickly on our way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We travelled along
rolling hills most of the day and the country side was developed for
agriculture most of the way. Initially there seemed to be a lot of sisal plantation
(but many of them seemed to be in a state of disrepair) and this gave an
impression of lush environment. The country was drier and had more cassava in
middle section of the trip. It was again lush when we got closer to the coast
again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We joined the coast
again at Bagamoyo and looked hopefully, but without any expectations for a nice
coastal café. It was not to be.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The final 60 km into Dar
took > 3 hrs. Probably the worst traffic we have struck.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were fortunate that
Lodewijk & Funmi had invited us to
stay in their apartment in Dar. Luxury –
overlooking the sea. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 351 km; 9.5 hrs; S 06<sup>0</sup> 44’
35.3’’ E 039<sup>0</sup> 17’ 05.9’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 15 – 3/2/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A relatively lazy day.
We did manage to do some shopping and minor chores in amongst eating out for
all 3 meals!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-87922024650912195332013-01-23T02:27:00.001-08:002013-01-23T02:27:13.024-08:00Rwanda & Burundi<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Burundi<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 19/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We obtained a transit
visa at the border - $ 40 each for a maximum of 3 days. The border staff very
helpful. The immigration chap walked us through the customs procedures and made
sure we were not held up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">If it is possible, the
scenery was even more spectacular than Rwanda, especially descending into the Rift
valley to Lake Tanganyika. The road was tar and in good condition. Along the
route there were lots of road side stalls and touts trying to sell a wide
variety of fruit and veg. It all looked very healthy. We were waved through
most road blocks along the way, but when we were stopped the police invariably
asked us for water or money. After a bit of chat, they were OK to take no for
an answer. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Along the way we drove
through the fiercest ,densest ( if you can describe a rain storm as such) rain
storm either of us has ever experienced -
lots of driving rain, big hail and winds. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Bujumbura was clean and
still has the colonial style wide boulevards and streets. We were not hassled
along the way at all. We drove straight to Kings Conference Center (a Point of
Interest in T4A). The Center has superb staff. We had a nice dinner in the
hotel as the staff did not recommend walking around after dark.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 359 km; 6 hrs; S 03<sup>0</sup> 24’ 35.2’’
E 029<sup>0</sup> 20’ 53.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 20/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We woke up to a flat
tyre on the vehicle. Seems that the BFGoodrich All terrain tread is too
aggressive for the rough rock and we had a small leak puncture. We changed the
tyre and plugged the leak. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After breakfast we drove
along the lake to Livingstone/Stanley memorial. There are two places that claim
to be the spot where Stanley uttered “Dr Livingstone I presume” - here and in Tanzania.
The memorial is nothing special and we were mobbed by kids, so we did not stay
that long.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove along the
lake north of Bujumbura to see the beaches, the only attraction mentioned in
the guide book - (the guide book also says do not go to Burundi due to safety
and if you do go, definitely do not go out of Bujumbura). The beaches were nice,
but access is via clubs/restaurants and there was lots of activity on the
beaches e.g. washing bikes etc so it was not peaceful. Checked out a couple of
resorts thinking we may stay an extra day, but they were very expensive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">So, we drove back to the
Burundi/Tanzania border. We managed to spend all of our Burundi money on fuel
just before the border. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Burundi exit
formalities were completed in super quick time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Burundi
very quick summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again a clean country
with good roads. The folks we chatted to seemed to be pleasant and the only
begging we struck were the kids at the monument and the cops! It is expensive
for overlanders.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Rwanda<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 16/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had an easy entry
into Rwanda. Although, they insisted on Avril being present for the
formalities. Normally Ray does it all and Avril protects the vehicle – read
chats to the local boys. We then again had to swap to the right hand side of
the road.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The scenery continued to
be impressive, with very lush vegetation, the Volcano’s National Park on our
right and the route along very steep big hills/small mountains.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road was in
excellent condition, there were buildings/ built up for substantial
sections and there were lots of people
using the verges as a footpath – though they were not interfering with traffic
flow. We also noticed that there were lots of people just “hanging” around, not
a lot to do. The level of boredom must be incredible, to say nothing of the
waste of good manpower and labour.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove easily into
Kigali and looked at the Serena hotel. But at $ 420/night it was a bit pricey. We checked into the Umubano Hotel a more
reasonable $ 165/night – but still expensive for the standard. We needed to
stay in a hotel as Ray had a conference call that night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After checking into the
hotel Avril caught up with the Australian Open and Ray did some work. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 215 km; 6 hrs; S 01<sup>0</sup> 56’
49.0’’ E 030<sup>0</sup> 05’ 31.9’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 17/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a very late night,
we had a bit of a sleep in, then caught up with email, watched the Oz Open
(Avril) etc. We went for a drive around the city in the afternoon. We decided
against going to the Genocide Memorial – we are a bit too squeamish for that.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The city for all intents
looks and behaves like a western city. It has very well maintained parks and
gardens, roads with proper kerbs and gutters, it is very clean, people obey the
road rules e.g. both riders and passengers wear helmets on motor bike taxis,
they obey the speed limits etc. We drove through what appeared to be some of
the more ritzy suburbs with large houses and again all well maintained. The
less salubrious suburbs were also well maintained with public gardens, clean
roads etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The city seems to
function very well – no electricity black outs while we were there etc. All
very impressive, which shows that it can be done. The sceptics suggest that the
economy is supported by huge amounts of aid. That may be so, but the aid in Sth
Sudan (& the rest of Africa) did not stop the litter. Here, the streets are
clean and well maintained.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 18/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We travelled on good
roads to Asagera NP. The final 27 km was on dirt and a fierce rain storm on the
way in meant we were slipping across the road surface. The surface of the road
was fine, powdery dirt which quickly transformed into a surface film of mud
when wet. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The staff at the
entrance were helpful. The current price for 24 hours with your own car and
camping is $ 120. Still not cheap, especially when compared to southern Africa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The guide books warn
that there is not a lot of game and this is true. Still we managed to see bushbuck,
waterbuck, warthog, impala, buffalo and tessebe/topi.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The park is renowned for
its spectacular views across its lakes and we definitely had a multi- million
$$ view from our camp site. The sites may have been recently renovated and
there was a good rondavel and a toilet (long drop).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The biggest negative of
the park are the large numbers of Tsetse flies - more than we have ever
encountered before. For the 1<sup>st</sup> time ever we looked for game though
closed windows. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 216 km; S 01<sup>0</sup> 50’ 58.8’’
E 030<sup>0</sup> 43’ 15.6’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 19/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the morning we did
another game drive. This time we went around the giraffe loop, but did not see
any giraffe!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to the border
through a back way which involved a ~ 60 km drive on a dirt road. Even in this
seemingly remote area (for a densely populated country like Rwanda) the road
was lined with people. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The border crossing was
excellent. The Burundi & Rwanda officials sit side by side in the same
office and formalities were completed with a minimum of fuss.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Rwanda
Quick Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The people we interacted
with were very nice. The country seems to be very organised. The country was clean;
almost the only place in Africa with curbs & gutters on the roads.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The negative is that it
is very expensive. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Bradt guide was OK –
but quite large for such a small country. 6/10. The International Travel Map
for Rwanda and Burundi is basically useless. 2/10<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-28057165614235298352013-01-16T10:39:00.000-08:002013-01-16T10:39:35.167-08:00South Sudan & Uganda 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 8 – 12/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We crossed the border
quickly into Uganda, again we always taken to the front of the queues. It
seemed to be expected. This may not be a good example to set for the locals but
given the huge queues, we welcomed this bit of positive discrimination!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The traffic at the
border was chaotic. Each lorry and bus driver attempting to gain a few extra
inches of distance and in doing so often completely blocking the road. Time for
Traffic Cop Ray. A number of times Ray jumped out of our vehicle and got
the drivers to shift to the correct side
of the road to get the traffic flowing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again, the journey on
the dirt road back to Gulu took 3 hours. In Gulu we bought some “salt” i.e. not
too sweet bread.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then again we drove the
killer pothole section. The professional
drivers again showed no courtesy and time and again used their mass to
intimidate us and push our vehicle off the side of the asphalt into ditches,
sharp edges etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There are usually police
checks into and out of each town in this part of Uganda. Generally we were
stopped, but usually only for a chat. Where are you from? Do you like Uganda/
etc? This is very nice, but after a time a bit tiring, particularly when we
want to get to our night stop.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped at the Hotel
Aribas in Masindi. Very nice staff.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 496 km; 10 hrs; N 01<sup>0</sup> 41’
15.9’’ E 031<sup>0</sup> 43’ 07.5’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 9 – 13/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">This was a hard day’s
drive. The road from Masindi to the Kampala – Fort Portal road is awful. Not
Nth Kwnya awful, but still bad. It took 5.75 hours to cover this 202 km. The
main road into Fort Portal is good, however the number of traffic humps is
unbelievable. Even the smallest hamlet/dorp has at least 10 sets of humps. The
road from Fort Portal to Lake Nyabikere was again awful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The vegetation all the
way was impressive. The manager of the CVK camp where we stayed (he has a PhD in Forestry from ANU)
said they get 2,000 mm of rain again and together with the sun, anything grows.
South of Masindi there are extensive, industrial scale sugar farms. Near Fort
Portal there are large tea plantations. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There was some very good
scenery, mainly large hills, along the way. The vegetation is so thick and
close to the road, good pictures were hard to get.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did a spot of
shopping at Fort Portal and then headed out to Lake Nyabikere, one of the many
crater lakes in the area. It is a beautiful scene, very similar to the lakes on
the Atherton Tablelands (so much so, that we decided to move on quickly rather
than hang around).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ben & Jen had driven
through from Jinja and we shared an evening meal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 274 km; 7.5 hrs; N 00<sup>0</sup> 30’
00.0’’ E 030<sup>0</sup> 19’ 49.7’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 10 – 14/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We started the day with
a very pleasant drive along the Ruwenzori Mountains – Mountains of the Moon. We
were lucky enough to see some of the high peaks in the distance before the mist
covered them. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove along a good
road to the Queen Elizabeth National Park, where we checked on the fees and
confirmed the $ 150/day for the car + $35/person/day + camping costs. This was too
much for us and almost all overlanders we have spoken to.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After the gate the road deteriorated
badly, with potholes almost all the way. With massive number of speed bumps and
pot holes and general poor road conditions in Uganda, the bracket holding the springs
together on the rear driver side had vibrated loose and got stuck in between different
leaves. So, we cautiously decided to take the dirt road to Ntungamo rather than
stay with the potholed main road. We re-joined the main road after Ntungamo.
From there until 20 km before Kabale there were constant road works. There were
a very large number of work faces organised in a very haphazard manner and
little system between the sections. The lack of any detour management plan meant
it was very slow going. Avril amused herself by greeting as many road workers
as possible. Ray sank into a state of severe depression – the lack of any project
management proving too much! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">What should have been a
very pleasant drive turned into a long drawn out ordeal. We arrived at the
Overlanders Camp site at Lake Bunyonyi at dusk. The camp site separates the
bigger overland trucks from private overlanders. However one of the smaller
trucks snuck into “our” area and inevitably made noise. It took some chat from
Ray to get the silence necessary for sleep. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 287 km; 8 hrs (driving) ; S 01<sup>0</sup>
16’ 20.0’’ E 029<sup>0</sup> 56’ 14.4’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 11 – 15/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We made friends with the
Dutch family camping near us (Martin & Ilva and their daughter Rune) and
decided an evening BBQ was in order. The
overland truck had some issues with their suspension and needed some spare
parts. We were going into town to get our spring bracket seen to, so
volunteered to get the spares.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The garage decided to
weld the bracket to the springs and after some negotiation on price, performed
the worst welding job Ray had seen. He reckoned he could have done a better job
himself! We found the spares for the overland truck, bought some provisions and
returned to camp for a lazy afternoon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At dusk our friends Ian/Heather
& Don/Gabby arrived (we had met in Addis, they towed us out of the bog in
Nth Kenya and we had seen them in Jinja). They joined the BBQ and we had a
pleasant evening gossiping and swapping information. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 12 – 16/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Unsurprisingly (given
our experience in Uganda) we had some overnight rain. After a slow breakfast we
set off for Rwanda via Kisoro. The drive on a good road was wonderful with cultivated
large hills/small mountains.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We crossed the border
with a minimum of fuss.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Uganda
Summary</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">From our experience,
Uganda is indeed the pearl of Africa. It seems to be blessed with good soil, water,
sun, people and (now) oil. We had little hassle in the country – we could stop
at the side of the road for lunch and not draw a crowd. There were very few
beggars. The scenery is wonderful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The negatives were the
very high costs to access a National Park. If they had have been reasonable we
would have spent much longer in Uganda. The road conditions are also a challenge.
The dirt roads are generally terrible and long sections of the asphalt roads potholed.
To add to the road misery the absolutely huge number of speed bumps make
driving a really tiring experience.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">South
Sudan<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 10/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It was ~ 109 km from
Gulu to the border. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At the border a “fixer”
attached himself to us (interestingly at the end he preferred Uganda Shillings
to US$. Apparently the US$ exchange rate is very poor and the black market does
not offer too much better. With Uganda Sh they can buy goods on the Uganda side
at a much lower cost than Sth Sudan). He took us straight to the front of the
very long queue to purchase our South Sudan visa - $100/each. This was done
very quickly and we were stamped into the country. The immigration officials
were shocked we only had 2 children. They would all have as many as possible,
10 was a number mentioned. They asked Ray if he would like a couple of local
women so he could continue to breed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then had to purchase
car insurance S. Sud £ 200 ~ $ 50. Ray joked and complained about the high
cost. The locals appreciated that it was a high cost (the excuse being that Sth
Sudan is a new country), but that was the cost and we got receipts for
everything. Then we went to customs where the carnet was signed, quickly and
with no hassles. Soon we were on our way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road is high
standard asphalt all the way to Juba – thanks to USAid. Along the way we passed
a mine clearing camp and saw the cleared lanes along the road and paths to the
villages marked with red and white tape. Along the road side there were a lot
of crashes, including a couple that had clearly occurred very recently. There
were as many crashed, burnt out vehicles here as there were in Angola.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The scenery was rolling
hills with some small mountains in the distance. The ground was dry and the
vegetation was basically small scrub. There were a number of bush fires in the
area that created a smoke haze. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had reserved accommodation
at the Afex Camp. Apparently this is the most secure accommodation in town and
right on the Nile River: $ 145/Dbl; B&B, internet & laundry. (when we
went to pay the bill we discovered that an additional 15% tax and 10% service
charge was added). We queried the Service charge, but got blah blah in
response). This is where most of the NGOs and diplomatic staff stay. The
management is well aware of the allowances given to expats and charges
appropriately – market- bearable pricing at its most efficient. Apparently a
small self contained unit is + $ 4,500/month. Our accommodation was in a
construction style container , but it did have tv, a/c and a bathroom!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our vehicle attracted a
lot of interest from the local staff and expats.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 299 km; 6 hrs; N 04<sup>0</sup> 50’
18.9’’ E 031<sup>0</sup> 36’ 58.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 11/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had considered
driving back to Uganda via Torit and the Matong Mountains. We chatted to an
expat chap in the camp who knew the local roads and whose organisation had an
office in Torit. He called the office in Torit and they advised that the
journey from Juba to Torit would be at least 5 hours and we would need to
overnight there. Then it would be a long day’s drive from Torit to Kitgum in
Uganda. Then a further drive to get to Gulu. Apparently the scenery, whilst
nice, is not stunning. So, we decided not to do the trip and to go directly
back to Gulu.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A stroll around Juba:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Afex camp is
pleasantly situated on the Nile and has good shade and is clean. When one
leaves the camp, the road deteriorates into a dirt track with large ditches.
Around the immediate area there are a number of camps for the less fortunate.
Some look official with well sited and maintained tents. Others are really
squatter camps/hovels made up of sticks, grass and others peoples waste. The
main cemetery is nearby and is very overgrown and appears to be being used as
an unofficial local rubbish dump. A few people were foraging in some the waste
and other piles of rubbish were smouldering. In among this, people have erected
basic shelters. Quite depressing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The main road into town
is paved; however the side roads are nearly all dirt. The volume of rubbish on
the side roads is huge and seems to be mainly plastic bottles. The paved road
has a pile of sand running along both sides (making sure our shoes got very
dirty) and also has a line of rubbish. We noticed a couple of signs pleading to
“Keep Juba Clean. These have been sponsored by the UN. Clearly the town council
does not take a lot of civic pride in the city. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There are plenty of
trees in most areas to provide shade and from a distance they give a reasonably
pleasing view.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The main business activity
on the way into the “CBD” appears to be charcoal. Given that there is no power
grid and no LPG bottles, charcoal looks like the main cooking fuel. It is sold
in large hessian bags or small plastic bags. On the drive from the border we
had seen the charcoal makers with crude earth/pit ovens smouldering in the
bush. Apart from reusable yellow water jerry cans for water, there is very
little other retail along the way. The service industry was represented by
beauty salons, phone companies and large numbers of motorbike taxis. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There was a large amount
of traffic (read Landcruisers etc) on the road with the majority from GOSS
(Government of South Sudan), UN (with their own special number plates. Most UN agencies
seemed to be represented here) and NGOs. The NGOs have their own special number
plates. Each NGO has a unique number and then a vehicle number; the highest
number we saw was NGO 133, implying there are at least 133 NGOs in Sth Sudan. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There was a reasonable number
of hotels on the main road. From the street they seemed to be OK – all had Toyota
Landcruisers, Prados etc parked in the courtyards. The best business in Sth
Sudan has to be the Toyota dealership – if there is one?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Along the way we passed
a number of Government offices. The pavement outside these was generally
crowded with people. Another sign of a Government enterprise is a bank of
(private) photocopiers on the pavements. This must also be another good
business in Sth Sudan. It seems that paper is the way business is done here and
copies are essential. With the lack of power distribution, the copier merchants
need to have a generator running. In the “old days” Sth Sudan was a large
producer of oil and could import fuel at a low cost from the North. Now, with
their decision to stop producing oil, as apparently North Sudan was charging
extortionate amounts for pipeline transport, all the fuel must be trucked from
Mombasa in Kenya, via Nairobi and Kampala to Juba. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Juba must be the lowest
key capital we have seen. The tallest building we saw (churches to one side)
was 3 stories. The CBD/“centre” is a few streets of non-descript pavement
stalls and a few “proper” shops. The urban myth is that the Kenyans and
Ugandans have money (as they have not been fighting for independence) and the
shops and stalls are owned by them. The Sth Sudanese provide the labour and
this leads to some resentment. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Along the pavement there
are some drink stalls – generally run by women. They sell tea and cold (fruit
?) drinks. We did not see any food for sale.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were both in shorts
and this did not seem to worry the locals. Though, a lot of folks had a shy
sideways glance at Avril as they passed. We were left to ourselves during our
walk, no beggars.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There is not a lot of
tourist stuff in Juba, really none. So after an extended walk we returned to
the Afex camp, Air Conditioning and internet. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The government seems to
make it difficult to establish a new, formal, business. In Kampala we had chatted
to Pete from Africian Rivers, who is trying to establish a rafting site on the
White Nile in Sth Sudan. The government, maybe short of funds due to the lack
of oil exports, requires a $ 500,000 establishment fee and then some large
ongoing payments. The cost is prohibitive for a small tourist enterprise.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Chatting to the expats
at the camp, there is a large degree of scepticism regarding the government.
There are reports of significant corruption. If that is true, it seems that Sth
Sudan is following the path of other African countries as they gained
independence. The former resistance leaders and freedom fighter commanders
ensured they had a life of luxury and that their personal wealth came before
building a new nation. If it is true, it is a real pity. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There are consistent
reports of ongoing criminal activity (a lot of it violent) in the country. The
suggestion is that the police and army, who have not been paid (oil exports
issue again) are a big part of the problem. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 12/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were up before the
sparrows and drove back the way we came 2 days before. The valleys were filled
with smoke from the morning domestic fires, from charcoal making and from
bushfires.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We cleared customs and
immigration quickly. Again, we were taken to the front of each queue. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">South
Sudan Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The trip to Sth Sudan
turned out to be a very expensive experiment. With visas (Sth Sudan and
re-entry into Uganda), insurance, accommodation, food, additional fuel & accommodation
to make the trek north etc, we were probably out of pocket > $ 1,000 for the
2 days. We were pretty appalled and annoyed at the costs and the blatant
gouging. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The costs are massively
higher than anywhere else in the region. For example, the hotel 300 km south in
Gulu (the 1<sup>st</sup> major center south in Uganda and itself, expensive for
Uganda) was only 25% of the cost of the camp in South Sudan - for the same
program. And it was of a much higher standard. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It also shows how the
Diplomatic Corps and NGOs spend taxes and donations. One of the NGOs was a
malaria treatment organisation. We though of Dave & Julia in Drive Against
Malaria. The cost to maintain an organisation in Juba could be used to great
effect with a mirco, focused couple like Dave & Julia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The government taxes the
material bought into the country by NGOs, for example the chap we spoke to in
Kampala was building a school in Sth Sudan and the government taxed all
materials on import.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I am not sure taxing the
generosity of others is a winning strategy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The country itself does
not have much to offer tourists and overlanders.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Listening to folks in
the camp about the violence, lawlessness and corruption in Sth Sudan, even if
50% is true, this new country is in for a very hard time – unless you are one
of the new elite.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Somaliland, a non-state
seemed to be much better organised and had a lot more civic pride. We would be
surprised if the people of Sth Sudan, in general, were any better off in 20
years time.</span><br />
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-14602131350810606292013-01-10T06:01:00.002-08:002013-01-10T06:01:34.388-08:00Uganda 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 4/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Crossing into Uganda was
easy, if time consuming. We got a visa on entry, which thankfully was only a
stamp, not a whole passport page (we are running short of these), which they
kindly put on an already used page. The carnet was stamped, but we needed to
pay road tax. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to Tororo
and an ATM (which would only let us draw ~ $ 70 – looking forward to seeing the
charge for that!!) We also got a new SIM card. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road from the border
to Tororo was average and it degraded badly from there. It became one long
series of bad potholes. About 20 km before Mbale it improved and was OK all the
way to Sipi. The vegetation was ultra lush. It seemed that anything could grow
here and the country side was a giant mass of green.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The drive up Mt Elgon
provided some fantastic vistas across the plain below. Unfortunately it was
quite hazy, so we could not get decent pics.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We ran into Ben and Jen (English
overlanders) at the border and travelled with them to Sipi. We camped at the
Twilight camp. Apparently this used to be run by a German chap, but (sadly) he
is no longer there. They promised hot showers, which turned out to be jerry
cans of hot and cold water and a bucket - the women doing all the water heating
and carrying, whilst the blokes chatted.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Jen cooked us a nice
dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 300 km; 6 hrs; N 01<sup>0</sup> 20’ 05.0’’
E 034<sup>0</sup> 22’ 13.2’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 5/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had organised a drive
& walk around the Sipi Falls. We thought it strange that the people at
Twilight wanted to charge us National Park entrance, as the map showed us that
it was outside the NP and the guide book made no mention of a fee being
payable. They also wanted to charge $ 30 pp. Ray had copied the Uganda National
Park fees and showed it was only $ 25 pp. Long story short, it seems that the
folks at Twilight camp were running a scam. Very naughty. After debating the
matter endlessly, reluctantly we paid 1 x $25. Later we called Ben & Jen
and said we thought this was a scam. They had been to the camp ground next door
and found that there was no National Park fee payable. The good news was they
managed to get most of our money back.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A very bad introduction
to a new country! Clearly we cannot recommend the Twilight Camp.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Sipi Falls are a series
of 3 cascades, the 1<sup>st</sup> and 3<sup>rd</sup> being the most
spectacular. We walked to the base of the 1<sup>st</sup> falls, the top of the
middle falls and to a vantage point in the Sipi valley to see the 3<sup>rd</sup>
fall. There were also stunning views from the heights over the plain below –
seemed like you could see forever. We also managed to get a hazy view of Mt
Elgon peak.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to Jinga
on a very good standard tar road. We looked at the Nile High camp ground but
there was no “roof top” camping area and there were already 2 big overland
trucks there. So, we drove onto Nile Explorers which is much nicer for us 4WD
overlanders.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As soon as we drove in
we saw Heather (Ian, Don and Gabby were out white water rafting) the folks we
had driven down from Loyangalani with. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We enjoyed catching up
later at the bar. The bar has a great view over the Victoria/White Nile and we
were treated to a wonderful sunset.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The night was a bit
noisy (apparently someone rode a motor bike into the bar area!), but we managed
to get some sleep. Jacques & Cecilia and the staff at the camp were very
friendly and super helpful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 220 km; 4.5 hrs; N 00<sup>0</sup> 29’
04.0’’ E 033<sup>0</sup> 09’ 47.4’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Day 3 – 6/1/13</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There was a lot of rain
in the morning, but we managed to pack up the tent during a dry period. The
road to Kampala was very ordinary/bad tar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We passed through some
industrial scale sugar cane and tea plantations and as the guide books said,
took 2 hours to cover 73 km to Red Chilli Camp.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The camp was very full with backpackers and one
overland truck, but no other overlanders.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We met up with a group
of young Americans who are carrying out charitable works in South Sudan. These
are being funded by an independently wealthy former oil man. It is amazing how
often one comes across Americans living a very basic existence and trying to
assist local folks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 73 km; 2 hrs; N 00<sup>0</sup> 19’ 12.4’’
E 032<sup>0</sup> 37’ 47.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 7/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were up early to get
to the Rwanda embassy 1<sup>st</sup> thing. Unfortunately, the staff was not of
a similar mind and arrived 30 min late. TIA. Very unfortunately, they have a 72
hr waiting time for a visa. Bit of a bugger, Rays’ charm did not work fully
this time. After pleading/begging, maybe they can do it in 36 hrs. Fingers
crossed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We headed off to the
local shopping mall for brunch and essentials shopping.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then, just as we got
back to the camp, the heavens fully opened up. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ben & Jen, who we
had met at the border and Sipi showed up and we shared a few beers and dinner<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 – 8/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again we were awakened
by rain. It also rained later in the day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did some emails and
chores during the day. Luckily the Rwanda embassy listened to our pleas and we
got our passports complete with visas late in the day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again, we shared the
evening with Ben & Jen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 6 – 9/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Rain, rain, rain. Again
we were awakened by rain and packed up a wet tent.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove through to
Gulu in mid north Uganda. The vegetation remained green and lush, but the
scenery was not all that interesting. We did get a picture of the rapids/small
falls on the Victoria Nile at Karuma.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had an interesting
exchange with a traffic cop along the way. Apparently we were doing 54km/hr in
a 30 km/hr zone. We pointed out all the other people speeding and the appalling
driving standard in the country. After some conversation, we were let off. Fine would have been $45 – lucky, Avril - as
that would have been her chocolate allowance for a week!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">When we stopped for
lunch, a girl (early teens?) who was minding some cattle came over. In a show
of subservience/submissiveness – and much to our total embarrassment, she knelt
before us. We gave her some food, pen, money etc. We had a similar experience
with an older woman when we were walking at Sipi. Some of the old stuff must
hang on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road was good until
the Murchinson Falls turn-off and then deteriorated to very poor tar with lots
of aggressive pot holes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We could not find any
camping, so stayed at the Churchill Court Hotel (USh 114,000 B&B and internet)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 336 km; 6.5 hrs; N 02<sup>0</sup> 46’
58.1’’ E 032<sup>0</sup> 18’ 06.2’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 7 – 10/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a hearty
breakfast, we were off on the “bad” section of the road. It was dirt and bad,
but not as bad as other roads we have been on recently. This is the main
logistics route into South Sudan, so there were lots of trucks along the way<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A good day to be white!!
We were ushered to the front of the very large queues in both Customs and
Immigration on the Uganda side and in no time at all exited the country.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-47007020788890174712013-01-06T03:27:00.003-08:002013-01-06T03:27:56.373-08:00Kenya 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 12 – 31/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A day for relaxing.
Avril got her “hair done”; we did a bit of shopping and prepared for a New
Years Eve BBQ.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We joined with other
overlanders at JJ for the BBQ. Each couple provided their own meat and
contributed a salad for the table. We had pre dinner drinks with a very multi
cultural mezza including some yummy snacks from an Indian biker couple. Then
the main course. We drank a little, played the game where you have to guess the
name of the person written on a sticker on one’s forehead. Ray managed to stay
awake to 00:00 – just.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 13 – 1/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Soon after we had
retired to bed, the rain came and settled in for the night. Given the late
night, we got up late, had a lazy breakfast, said our farewells to the fellow
travellers and set off. On the way out of town we stocked up on the nice fresh
vegies from the supermarket.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Nairobi farewelled us
with a rain storm that made our vehicle all dirty again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On a fairly decent tar
road we drove to Naivasha with some spectacular views over the Rift Valley
along the way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove around Lake
Naivasha. As seems to be generally the case in Kenya, as soon as we left the
tar, the road was terrible. There are now a lot of flower farms and game
reserves around the lake, so we did not get many views of the lake. We did
manage to see a number of animals: zebra, buffalo, giraffe and Thompsons
Gazelle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove on to Lake
Elmentetia and camped at the Cactus Ecco Campground, which had been recommended
by others. It was clean, had flush loos and hot showers and very pleasant
staff. So, we could not complain.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the evening we went
for a stroll to the lake and saw some pink flamingos , pelicans and other
birds.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 171 km; 5 hrs; S 00<sup>0</sup> 27’ 01.5’’
E 036<sup>0</sup> 15’ 46.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 14 – 2/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a late start we
drove via Nakuru to the Naibery camp south of Eldoret. In Nakuru we stopped off
at a very modern tyre service center – the 1<sup>st</sup> really decent tyre
place since RSA. We wanted to have a wheel balanced as the weights were knocked
off when the punctures were repaired in Maralal. However, the rip in the tyre
was too large and we were forced to buy yet another tyre. They wanted to sell a
BFGoodrich – but with their abysmally poor performance thus far, we said no.
Instead we bought a Pirelli. Let’s see how that goes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We may have forgotten to
mention, but some time ago we awarded BFGoodrich/Michelin our 3<sup>rd</sup> Raspberry
for the trip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The drive was along the
Rift Valley and scenery was rolling hills with some grand vistas. The
vegetation seemed to be semi-tropical and there was quite intensive agriculture
along the way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road was good until
~ 65 km before Eldoret and then it deteriorated badly. This is the main truck
route to Uganda. The road consisted of 2 deep ruts on each side of the road.
The ruts suit the trucks, but pose a serious hazard to small vehicles. In
addition, the truck drivers show little consideration and make driving even
worse than it should be.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The camp is excellent,
maybe the best of the trip thus far. The down side is that all the big overland
tour trucks use the site. So, it can be very noisy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 153 km; 4.5 hrs (driving) ; N 00<sup>0</sup>
26’ 52.4’’ E 035<sup>0</sup> 25’ 20.5’’. Across the equator again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 15 – 3/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A day of chores; lots of
cleaning and mending. The good news was
that it was dry, so we could get the jobs done.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">BBQ for dinner<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 16 – 4/1/13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road to the border
varied between some good new short sections and more of the big groves worn
into the surface by trucks. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We managed to use our
excess Kenyan Shillings to fill the fuel tanks, only to find we needed
Shillings to pay Road Tax.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The crossing from Kenya
was easy. We did have to pay road tax as we had not paid it on entry (as there
was no border post).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Kenya
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Roads and rain to one
side, we enjoyed Kenya. The people were welcoming and ready to assist, without
expecting payment. There was a little begging by young boys in rural areas, but
apart from that we were left alone. We could pull off to the side of the road
for lunch and not be crowded by spectators/beggars. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It was nice to be able
to buy good quality meat, fruit and veg/salad. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We thought the game
parks were expensive, but then they seem to be lower cost than other east
African countries. The camp grounds were in the main of reasonable to good
quality. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-83548272115819535572012-12-31T00:00:00.001-08:002012-12-31T00:00:39.388-08:00Kenya 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 –20/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We finally arrived in
Kenya, for us akin to arriving in paradise. We looked forward eagerly to the
supposedly wonderful camp grounds, supermarkets and apparently ATMs. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road is a little
poorer on the Kenyan side and at times becomes confused. We needed to back
track a few times to regain the track.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Maybe it was our
imagination, but almost as soon as you cross the border the begging stopped and
there were friendly smiles and waves. We registered at the police station at
Illeret. It took 40 min to do the 16 km from the border to Illeret.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We decided to take the
track through Sibilio NP, rather than the track around it (as suggested by
others. This seems to be mainly to save the very high entrance fee). We figured
that there may be less chance of a mud bog in the park and a chance of seeing
animals. There had clearly been a lot of rain recently, and in sandy places the
tracks of previous travellers (2 days ago) had been washed away. In other
places there were some severe lava crossings. So we were pretty happy to get
through without getting bogged and with all tyres intact. Long may this
continue. The 52 km from Illeret to Koobi For a took ~ 3 hours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were greeted warmly
at the Koobi Fora, a research station; but, no cold beer!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 200 km; 8 hrs; N 03<sup>0</sup> 56’
52.0’’ E 036<sup>0</sup> 11’ 10.6’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 –21/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray’s big day. He was
last in Loyangalani in April 1978, with Jim Barrett and Ian (Chesty) Bond, on a
safari from Zambia. So, after 35 years, Ray had completed his Cape to Cairo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were fortunate not to
get the strong winds that typically come up overnight on Lake Turkana. We set
off early from Koobi Fora as we had a long day’s drive to Loyangalani. We had
to stop at the park gate to pay the entrance. Ray objected, we saw no animals,
the park seems to be now basically grazing land for tribes people and roads are
terrible. The protestations were to no avail and we paid the $ 20/person. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Along the way we passed
4 young Swiss people (Vincent, Jam’s, Rachel & Goetan) travelling
by Landrover and 2 Brits going by tuk tuk. The tuk tuk lacked the power to get
up a lot of the river banks and often the tuk tuk passenger had to get out and
push. The Swiss were kindly following and providing assistance, lots of pushing
and later towing the tuk tuk. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The track was very poor
and we did get a puncture. Ray managed to plug it reasonably quickly and we
were soon on our way. The track changed between lava fields, large mud areas
and sandy river beds. Given our previous poor experience with mud, these areas
really got the adrenalin flowing. Still, we managed to get though without
getting bogged.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our reward was some
beautiful views over the Jade Sea. Lake Turkana showed the deep colour that
gave it its name and the weather was ideal for the views – clear skies and not
too hot.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped at the Palm
Shade site. We had to carefully select our site and it had been raining hard
and there was mud around. We then ran into the RSAers (Ian and Heather),
Brit/German (Don and Gabrielle)- couples we had met in Addis. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Gabriel, the owner of
Palm Shade welcomed us and they did have cold beer!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Unfortunately the new
BFGoodrich was leaking. We went to the local tyre repair (no jack, hand pump,
no tools etc) and found that it had multiple small leaks. Basically too many
holes to plug. Fortunately we had a spare tube and put this in the tyre. This
involved a trip to the Catholic Mission to get the machine to break the bead.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did get badly ripped
off by the 2 chaps who did the repair and were gently chided by Gabriel for not
asking his advice.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 205 km; 9 hrs; N 02<sup>0</sup> 45’ 22.3’’
E 036<sup>0</sup> 43’ 16.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 –22/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Overnight we did get a
small sample of the wind that comes to Lake Turkana, but it was not too
serious. More serious was that the repaired tyre was leaking! Ray had worried
that the repairers had not cleaned out the tyre properly and some debris had
punctured the tube. And this turned out to be the case. So we had to repair
this and did not get on the road until 08:30.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road out of
Loyangalani is actually designated as a C77 by the Kenyan road authorities. On
the basis they have rated it as a road, we need to rate it as the worst road we
have travelled on in Africa - > 70,000 km thus far. The easy way for them to
lose the worst road title is to remove the rating that it is a road, cause
clearly it is not! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We travelled in convey
with Ian and Don. Again, the upside of the trip was some fantastic scenery.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At Baragoi the road was
completely washed away and the side track was a mud bath – with a truck stuck
in it. There was a small gully to one side and the locals said that other small
vehicles had gotten through in this path. Ray inspected it and was dubious, but
we decided to give it a go. We managed to almost get to the solid road, but the
last ~ 2’ rise was too much and the vehicle was leaning at a precarious angle.
A truck driver bought his vehicle down to try and tow us out, but it was not to
be. Then all the onlookers got together to push us back out of the gully. All
this assistance was given with great humour and generosity; there was no demand
for payment etc. So nice to be back in “Africa”. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As all this was going on
Ian and Don turned up and discovered there was an alternative track through the
village. So at least we had a route out. We reversed the vehicle up the river bank
and proceeded to get stuck in the mud at the side of the road. Bugger! Ian/Don
generously back came around and towed us out.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road had become a
bit of an ordeal, just when you thought it could not get worse, it did. We also
managed to get another puncture.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">So we arrived in Maralal
a bit after dark. Then the joy of civilisation, we went to the ATM to draw some
money.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped at the Yule
Camel club, which had reasonable facilities.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 242 km; 10.5 hrs; N 01<sup>0</sup> 03’
33.2’’ E 036<sup>0</sup> 42’ 39.8’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 –23/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As in theory we had an
easy day, we had a bit of a sleep in and then went into town to get the tyres
repaired. There was a lad (~ 15 yo) at the repair center and he did a lot of
the work. Even though he was going to school, his father thought he should also
have this skill. We had a slow leak on the front tyre and he found this and
instructed Avril to get out of the car for safety etc. And, they did not rip us
off (so got a generous tip). Very nice.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a quick look at
Maralal and set off for Nyahururu. This road is shown on the Riese Know How map
as an all weather main road. Mmm. The road was in bad condition with a very
rough surface (either dried mud or rock). There were a number of mud pits to
negotiate. Which we did safely. We passed a police post a few kms south of Mugi
and asked about the road. They said there was one poor section, but we could
definitely get through. Comforting.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">When we got to the bad
section, Ray waded through the water and the mud etc. There was a side road
that was also a long mud pit. After some inspection we decided, no, we would
not take the risk. We drove back to the police post and they were surprised.
Then they asked, well, why don’t you take the good road? The good road???? We
did not know there was another road. Oh yes, go back to Mugi Junction, take a
left and then go through the village of Lonyek and follow the road to
Nyahururu. And so it was, this is the road all the locals and buses use. It was
a good surface and where there was mud there was a clear dry path around it. We
often stopped other vehicles to ensure we were on the correct road. Invariably
they greeted us with a smile, gave us directions and farewelled us with a
“enjoy your journey. Travel safely”. The tar road started at the town of Kinamba, which is located incorrectly on
the Riese Know How map!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">So, with the good road
we arrived at a reasonable time at Thompsons Falls Lodge near Nyahururu. We had
time to set up camp and take a look at the falls. Ks 200pp, Ray objected:”but
last time I was here it cost nothing”. The attendant asked when that was and
enjoyed the joke. (1978!)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At dusk, just as it was
about to rain a Czech fellow showed up. He is hitchhiking around Africa and
generally camps at the side of the road. A bit different to us. So we invited
him to join us for dinner. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 174 km; 5.5 hrs; N 00<sup>0</sup> 02’
44.4’’ E 036<sup>0</sup> 22’ 04.5’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 –24/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Even though we were
almost on the equator, it was a cold night. We had mainly good roads (with some
pot holes and sections washed away) all the way to Nairobi. We stopped off at
Nyeri to get our phone SIM sorted out and buy some food from a nice café.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived at Jungle
Junction in the early PM – having crossed the equator. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">They had had a lot of
rain in Nairobi and the ground was a bit flooded, but we managed to find a dry
grass spot. Then we walked off to a western style shopping mall to buy some
essentials. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There were lots of other
overlanders at JJs for Christmas: Heidi (Australian) and Jens (her German
husband) and Jesse & Odette (Dutch) plus a large number of Japanese who
seemed to use JJs as a departure hall or such.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Chris, the very helpful
owner of JJs put on a delicious Christmas evening BBQ, complete with starters
and desert.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 263 km; 5 hrs; S 01<sup>0</sup> 17’
20.2’’ E 036<sup>0</sup> 45’ 37.4’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 6 –25/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">This was our 1<sup>st</sup>
Christmas in a long time we were not together with the kids. After a lazy
start, we Skyped home to our family. Then we went to an expensive, delicious
smorgasbord lunch at the famous (from the happy valley colonial set) Norfolk
hotel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then went back to
JJs for the obligatory Betros Christmas
afternoon nap before a dinner with some of the other folks here.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 7 –26/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We spent Boxing Day in
recovery mode, hoping our bodies would forgive the excesses of Christmas day.
We took a stroll to the shopping center and attempted to see a movie – but the
movies showing were not really to our liking.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 8 –27/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A lazy day. Too wet for
chores. We needed to go into Nairobi central to register with the immigration
authorities and get our carnet stamped. The Kenyan officials were very
efficient and this was all completed with a minimum of fuss. We then went to a “stamp”
shop and bought a lot of country stickers for the side of the vehicle. We went
to the Thorn Tree café, but it is now very up market (read super expensive) so
we just had a quick look (for Ray to reminisce) and returned to JJ.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray bought some charcoal
and with others, we had a BBQ in the evening.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 9 –28/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">From other overlanders
we heard that the Ugandan parks charge $ 150/day just for 4WD vehicle entrance.
To that one needs to add park entrance (~ $ 30/pp/day) and camping. This was a
lot more than we anticipated. So, we needed to have a rethink of our forward itinerary and minimise
time in the Ugandan Parks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We decided to drive to
Tsavo West park in Kenya for a couple of days. The main part of the drive is
down the primary Nairobi – Mombasa highway. The road, which is in good nick, is
only a single lane each way and the volume of traffic is massive. There are a
huge number of trucks travelling slowly, so the local sedan drivers take
ridiculous risks to pass trucks (and get stuck behind the next truck). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived at the park
in mid afternoon. Park entrance is 24 hours – and is strictly enforced. We had
originally thought to camp outside the park and enter early the next day, but there
is no camping accommodation outside the park, so we entered the park “immediately”.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The guide books warn
that the viewing in Tsavo is poor, and so it was. However, there are some magnificent
views across valleys etc that in some way compensate for the lack of game.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped at the Kenyan Wildlife
Service camp site, just outside Chyulu Gate. This is generally described as “basic”,
but they had (cold) showers, flush loos and wash basins. So, we thought it was
OK. In addition, each site had a large thatched roofed rondavel, so even though
it rained (which it has done almost continually since we arrived in Nairobi) we
had a nice area in which to cook (Fusion: fajitas & tortillas with Asian stir
fried vegies). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 286 km; S 02<sup>0</sup> 54’ 06.4’’
E 038<sup>0</sup> 02’ 17.4’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Day 10 –29/12/12</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We made a relatively
early start to the day and re-entered the park for some game viewing. We drove
around until ~ 14:00. During the couple of days we saw: giraffe, Thompson’s
gazelles, Kudu (lesser?), elephants (lots), ostriches, dik dik (heaps), zebra,
water buck, tortoise, warthog, Oryx (Barnes?) and interestingly a couple of jackals
harassing a Kudu and the Kudu getting very angry. At Mzima Springs there is an
underwater tank where we watched the fish (in the very clear water).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The roads in the park
are generally in a bad state of repair. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to the
Amboseli National Park gate. The road from Tsavo West to Amboseli is awful. During this drive it rained very hard. There
were great torrents of water running down the side of the roads. We engaged
4WD, stuck to the center of the road and made sure we stayed well clear of the
edges. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We wanted to stay at the
Community camp ground, but everything was poorly sign posted. Anyway, the camp
ground we stayed at was well equipped with hot showers, flush loos etc. Oh, and
room temperature beer. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 186 km; S 02<sup>0</sup> 44’ 15.3’’
E 037<sup>0</sup> 22’ 36.5’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 11 –30/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Fortunately it did not
rain hard overnight. We had come to the Amboseli Gate to try and get a picture
of Mt Kilimanjaro without clouds. We waited until mid morning and for a time it
looked like the clouds may lift. But, it was not to be our day. We did get a
picture of the lower reaches of the mountain.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove back to
Nairobi on good asphalt. We again needed to navigate our way along the Nairobi –
Mombasa road. In some towns on the highway they have car washing points,
complete with power spray cleaning etc. After the dirt of the past few days we
decided to get the car washed. The man quoted KS 300 (~ $3.5). Maybe he
underestimated the degree of difficulty, so anyway he got a big tip. We did a
bit of shopping and we drove back to Jungle Junction to camp for a couple of
days.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 246 km<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-40828730861556433872012-12-25T20:59:00.000-08:002012-12-25T20:59:00.096-08:00Ethiopia 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ethiopia,
Part 3<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 18 – 14/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had an effortless
crossing into Ethiopia, so the customs person at the Djibouti crossing may have
been the exception.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stopped off at Harar
to have a look around and drove through the main gate to the central square. At
that point we were mobbed by “guides”, vendors and every person who thought old
white people may be an easy touch for the day. We were not in the mood for the
whole situation, so decided to just drive around a bit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We met a couple of
younger Aussies and other folks travelling around and stopped to have a natter
and lunch with them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then, we drove back to
the African Village in Dire Dawa and a had wonderful pizza dinner, while
chatting to the Swiss owner.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 320 km; We must have made an error
in transcribing the mileage. 209 out and 320 back does not seem right. Maybe
the average of both would be near the mark<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 19 – 15/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a very lazy start
to the day we made drove to the Awash National Park. Boring though it may
sound, we again had spectacular scenery through the Ahmar Mountains. We then
descended to the Awash River valley, a drop of ~ 1,500 m. The valley is a lot
drier/arid and hotter than the mountains. The road was generally reasonable
tar, but with a number of degraded sections.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We picked up some fruit
and veg at the market in Awash and drove to the national Park. The park has
plenty of domestic animals grazing (camels & cattle), but we did manage to
see a few Dik Dik. We were pleasantly surprised by the Awash falls. They have a
similar layout to Victoria Falls, a broad fall into a long chasm that then
flows through a narrow valley to reform the river.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped beside the
River.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 318 km; 6 hrs; N 08<sup>0</sup> 50’
415.8’’ E 040<sup>0</sup> 00’ 24.9’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 20 – 16/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a very relaxing
night away from all noise we took a game drive through the park. We were
fortunate to see a female kudu, a lot of beisa oryx (similar to gemsbok), some
Soemmering’s gazelles, rabbit/hare and more dik dik. Not a bad morning’s
effort.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The truck route from
Djibouti joins the road at Awash, so the drive into Addis was slow and
difficult. The road is generally OK tar, but with a lot of road works, detours
and some “train tracks” where the large trucks have made tracks into the tar. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The highlight of the day
were the ice creams we managed to buy at Debre Zeit. The low light was
discovering that the track for Djibouti had disappeared from the computer. The
only part of our journey missing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We got to Wim Holland
House at around 15:00<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 216 km; 5 hrs; N 9<sup>0</sup> 00’
36.0’’ E 038<sup>0</sup> 45’ 19.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 21 – 17/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were at the Kenya
embassy 1<sup>st</sup> thing in the morning. And the wonderful people there
issued our visa on the same day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We went to a local
German beer garden for the best beer, wifi and bratwurst in town.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did some vehicle
chores to prepare for our trip to Lake Turkana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 22 – 18/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were up at sparrows
to get a fast break to Arba Minch. Wim had suggested the route via Butajira and
it was a fairly easy run, for Ethiopia. Still lots of livestock and pedestrians
on the road! The herders clearly believe that the whole road belongs to them –
they do not bother to herd their livestock to the side of the road and make a
path for vehicles. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road is OK tar to
Sodo, after that it is a mixture of poor gravel and remnant tar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped at the Bekele
Molla hotel, with a magnificent view over Lake Abaya and Lake Chamo and the
Bridge of God that separates them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 458 km; 8 hrs; N 06<sup>0</sup> 00’
18.3’’ E 037<sup>0</sup> 33’ 06.6’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 23 – 19/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Overnight there was a
fierce thunder storm. The Lonely Planet guide said that the rains finished in
October (we later found out that apparently the rain in the south are from
October to December). We selected the route via Lake Turkana on the basis that
the rain had finished, so the road would not be full of mud/bog zones. The
alternative route is the main Ethiopia – Kenya road via Moyale and the Kenyan
side is supposed to be terrible. Folks at Wims place in Addis said the Moyale
route was now almost impassable, with vehicles stuck for days – but that could
be blogger exaggeration/urban myth. However, rain could make the Lake Turkana
route impassable. All this added to Ray’s stress level.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray was up early to take
some pics of the stunning sunrise followed by coffee from the hotel. The blogs
read that the road to Turmi was bad and we should allow extra time. As luck
would have it, the road from Arba Minch to Konso was ~ 50% tar and 50% gravel.
The gravel badly deteriorated in places. We filled the fuel tanks to the brim
at Konso, as this is the last of the reliable fuel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then the delight of the
day, there is a new asphalt road from Konso to Jinka – we turned off at Key
Afar. Then an even bigger delight, there is a new high standard gravel road
from Key Afar to Turmi. This latter section was 83 km. We arrived at the Kense
Mango campsite early in the afternoon and Avril berated Ray for his lack of up
to date research which had deprived her of sleep-in!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road in the morning
was full of livestock, and this continued for most of the day. The herders were
driving stock to pasture or to a watering point or just grazing them at the
side of the road. As is the custom in Ethiopia, the livestock had possession of
the road and vehicles need to negotiate passage with them. We were surprised by
the vegetation. In our minds, this was to be almost desert, however, there is
some intense agriculture; bananas, corn and a large cotton project near Weito
(Woyto). The steep, high hills beside the road were terraced to take full
advantage of the conditions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It almost goes without
saying, the scenery was spectacular. Great vistas over wide valleys and some
very rugged hills/mountains. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The begging was really
intense at the start of the day. Apparently the local bottled water is/was called
Highland. So, the chant here (for the empty bottle) in “highland, highland....”
Often this chant is accompanied by a little jig the beggar has developed to
attract attention. Some of the jigs are amusing, others border on the bizarre. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Omo valley is
“famous” for its “primitive” tribal people and there are lots of tour groups visiting
the area. The biggest draw card are the Mursi people – the women are the folks
who put plates/discs in their lower lip. We decided against going to see the
Mursi. Other overlanders had not recommended it and said it was like a human
zoo, with the local women pestering tourists (and there are large numbers of
tourists bussed in) to pay to take pictures. In such an environment, any
“natural” photo would be difficult and contrived. It would not be a memory, but
a “tick the box” side trip. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Turmi, where we decided
to stay the night, is known for its bull jumping. An initiation rite of sorts.
This is accompanied by the violent flagellation of female relations or friends
of the person to be initiated. This event occurs on a Monday, so we fortunately
did not need to make a decision whether or not to attend – we like to think the
answer would have been no. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As we drove, we noticed
more indications of recent rain – Ray’s stress level was now at fever pitch!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stopped at a local
market in Aldaba. Stopping at a market it “the thing to do” in the Omo valley.
We wandered for a bit. The market seemed to have very few vegetables but lots
of cheap clothes, lengths of cloth and plastic basins etc. The local lads here
wear mini dresses and have tiara of colourful beads. Some also have the beads
on their arms and calves. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray made the mistake of
giving a pen away t a school child; soon there were a large number of frenetic
kids demanding pens. Fortunately we had brought a some pens for such an
occasion, not enough for the insatiable demand, but we gave away what we had. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After the market we
stopped at the side of the road for lunch. A few local boys came and stood a
respectable distance away. We had more than enough, so shared our bread,
sardines and bananas with them. They were appreciative. There did seem to be
marginally less begging in the Omo and we even had some smiles and waves. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 279 km; 6 hrs; N 04<sup>0</sup> 58’ 33.0’’
E 036<sup>0</sup> 30’ 55.8’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 24 –20/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We made an efficient
start to the day and were at the Immigration and Customs post in Omorate at
09:00, just as it opened. We completed
the formalities in 30 min and spend another 20 min changing our residual Birr
into Kenya Shillings (at a horrible exchange rate).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The bird life around
Omorate was great with brightly coloured small birds and lots of larger ground
birds. We also saw a few Dik Dik.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road from Turmi to
Omorate is passable gravel. The route from this gravel to the border is a dirt
track. We were stopped a number of times for passport checks. The final check
being just before the border and the last Ethiopian we met, the border
official, asked for goods etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The distance to the
border from the Mango camp was 132 km and took 4 hours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ethiopia
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I guess you can tell
from the blogs, Ethiopia was not one of our favourite countries. On the
positive side, the scenery is absolutely fantastic; probably no other country
in Africa can equal it. Also, there is very little litter. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The big negative is the
people. We found them to be sullen and morose. The incessant begging is very
wearing – to the point where you avoid going out. You tend not to ask an
Ethiopian for directions or anything else as you know a demand for money will
result.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The driving is intense,
with the bus and mini bus drivers acting like they are the only people on the
road. The endless procession of villages, livestock and people makes it very stressful
and exhausting. Ethiopia is probably the least developed country we have passed
through.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">For us an added negative
was the lack of sleep. Really seriously over religions that seem to think sleep
deprivation is a way to salvation. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">For most overlanders,
Ethiopia is a “hardship” post. Everyone we spoke to had had stoned thrown at
them and been spat at – often with parents or older people watching. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Lonely Planet guide
(2009) is already severely dated. It’s helpful hints for those trying to travel
on an ultra low budget of no use to us (or we suspect most travellers). We
especially loved the budget for those who want fleas and those who do not. 3/10.
Merked down because it could not get the rain patterns correct<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As always, the Riese
Know How map was very inaccurate. Often mileages were > 20% out, typically
on the low side. 3/10. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-34825085135328262752012-12-14T21:22:00.000-08:002012-12-25T21:02:44.877-08:00Djibouti, Ethiopia 2 & Somaliland<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Djibouti<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 8/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Djibouti formalities
were completed efficiently and quickly. The drive was much the same as in
Ethiopia, lots of trucks and a barren, desolate landscape.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Initially, the road
deteriorated with lots of potholes. ~ 52 km from Djibouti City, the EU has
kindly constructed a better road.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had booked a couple
of points nights at the Sheraton, but decided to try our luck for an extra
night on arrival. The super helpful folks at the hotel pulled out all stops and
got a room on points for us. A bit of luxury, a/c and showers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 404 km; 8 hrs; N 11<sup>0</sup> 36’ 10.8’’ E 034<sup>0</sup> 09’ 28.5’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 9/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Not a good nights sleep.
The Italian marines in the next room decided to party all night. It all got too
much with the prostitute’s yelping at 04:00 and Avril got the manager to sort
it out.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove to Lake Assal.
Lonely Planet says this is the lowest point in Africa – it also says this about
the Dallol Depression, in the same publication. The drive is back towards
Ethiopia to the 52 km mark, the take the turn to the Tadjoura and drive on the
excellent tar road for 39 km. There is a clearly marked turn to the Lake and
then 17 km of very poor, badly potholed road.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Lake is probably has
more geographical interest than tourist appeal. It is a blue/green colour with
salt precipitating at the edges. Local folks are on hand to sell you some salt
of carious crystals.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a lazy afternoon
in the hotel – but changed rooms!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 10/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray was up early to have
the vehicle serviced at the Toyota garage. At the service center, a new Renault
showroom was being opened by a high dignitary, so there was military security
and lots of hum around. The service was professionally carried out. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Otherwise, we spent the
day relaxing and doing emails etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had to decide on our
route to Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland. Our original idea was to drive
the route in Somaliland. The guide book says this is 2 days by car (night
driving) and this was confirmed by one of the chaps on the Danakil tour. However,
we could not get accurate information on the route, whether we needed to take a
guard for the whole trip (an issue as we only have 2 seats) etc. After some
thought we opted for the more certain route, back to Ethiopia and then to
Somaliland. It seemed to be about the same duration and all the local folks in
Djibouti recommended against the Somaliland route. Maybe we are just cowards!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 11/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Lonely Planet guide
said that it was a rough 10 – 12 hour drive to Dire Dawa, so we were up early
to ensure we got to our destination before dark. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We quickly got to the
border crossing near Ali Sabein. Along the way we passed a very large European
military exersize with loads of armoured vehicles and such.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The crossing into
Ethiopia was completed without any real hassle. The customs bloke had already
had his daily allowance of chat (the local “mildly” narcotic drug) so getting
his attention and our carnet stamped was amusing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Djibouti
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were only in the
country for a few days, so any observation must be superficial. The Djibouti
people did not beg and kept their livestock off the roads. It was very nice to
be somewhere where the locals do not beg. At one point, when we were stopped at
traffic lights, a kid came to the car, however a local chap on the pack of a
ute in the next lane told kid off and shooed him away. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did not see any of
the “French Influence” that the guide book talks about.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ethiopia,
Part 2<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 16 – 11/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our immigration
formalities were completed very quickly. But, the customs folks decided to make
our lives difficult. For the 1<sup>st</sup> time on the trip we were forced to
open up the rear accommodation module. Then they wanted to look at everything,
including our safe. They wanted to count our money (Lonely Planet says there
are no currency import restrictions) etc. All a hassle, but we kept our cool
and eventually were on our way. So much for the previous thought of the
Ethiopians welcoming tourists. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The made road ended at
the Djibouti border. The gravel road to Dire Dawa varied from dreadful to OK
(ish). The 215 km in Ethiopia took 4.5 hours. At one point we were stopped at a
road block and asked for 200 Birr, the reason being we did not have Ethiopian
number plates. Some discussion ensued and then one of the chaps asked if we
were Diplomatic Corps – “of course”. So, we proceeded through with out payment
or further debate.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We booked into the
wonderful African Village, a real garden oasis. Clean rooms etc. It is run by
Pentecostal folks, so unmarried people cannot share rooms and there is no
alcohol. A small price for the nice setting.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 327 km; 8 hrs (including 1.5 at the
border); N 9<sup>0</sup> 35’ 36.1’’ E 041<sup>0</sup> 51’ 03.9’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 17 – 12/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After chatting to the
kids over Skype, we set off for Somaliland. The road via Harar and Jijaga all
the way to the border is new high standard tar. As always with Ethiopia, the
scenery was memorable. Immediately after Dire Dawa there were terraces hills,
then a valley with unusual rock formations and finally into some open plains. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There seemed to be less
general hassle in this area; still pedestrians and stock on the road and
crowded villages, but virtually no begging and no “you, you you” chant.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Border formalities were
completed quickly – with immigration requiring an exit photo and finger prints.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Somaliland<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 12/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were greeted with
“welcome to Somaliland” and a smiling immigration officer who made it his
personal business to get our immigration (with photo and finger print) and
customs formalities completed quickly.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road for 20 km
immediately after the border is 4WD, but with lots of local normal sedans
plying the route. We were lucky enough to see a jackal along this section.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After the dirt there is
a reasonable standard tar road (no potholes) all the way to Hargeisa, but with
some vicious, unmarked speed bumps. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had expected desert,
but to our surprise, whilst the land is arid, this is quite thick scrub and
some crops being grown. More intense agriculture than we would have thought.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Oddly, most (> 80%)
of the vehicles are right hand drive, even though they drive on the right hand
side.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We looked around for other
hotels mentioned in the blogs, but could not find any, so settled on the
Oriental Hotel where almost all bloggers tend to stay. It was fine, except that
a prayer/mosque loud speaker was 100’ from our room. Sleep deprivation, again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After settling in we
went to look for the Ministry of Tourism, but we were too late for it. Ray was
treated with some distain by the gate guard, apparently because he had shorts
on. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then went for a bit
of a walk around town. We were the object of everyone’s interest. Some folks
took a coy glance and others were openly staring. We are used to this, but here
it was a bit more intense. However, most people were friendly, with the older
women more than willing to share a bit of a joke. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">When we were almost back
to the hotel a couple of youths (maybe ~ 16yo) said to Avril that she should
cover her hair (she had put on long pants and a top to cover her shoulders). We
tried to talk to them, but it was clear that there was no reason here. A crowd
had gathered and one of the lads said Avril should cover her hair to prevent
violence. Nice. We have been in > 15 Muslim countries, lived and worked in a
number and this was the 1<sup>st</sup> time we had experienced prejudice or
hostility. We just returned to the hotel. We did see 2 other European women and
both had caftans and head scarves. One of the women said that even though she
had a scarf over her hair, her fringe was showing and as she walked through the
market some one flicked the fringe. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a long negotiation
with the hotel management, we arranged a vehicle, guard and permits for the Las
Geel rock paintings. $25/person entrance. Guard, driver and vehicle $ 80. There
was some suggestion that we did not need a guard any more, but the hotel
insisted that we did. Hence, as we only have 2 seats in our car, we would have
needed a car for the guard anyway. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 209 km; N 09<sup>0</sup> 33’
43.7’’ E 044<sup>0</sup> 04’ 04.9’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 13/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Needless to say, given
the strict Islamic nature of the country, we had a short night’s sleep. Here,
they broadcast all the prayers, not just the call to prayer. And, in the
evening this lasted > 2 hours. At breakfast we met a young German who
described how, when he arrived at the bus station a group of school children
had approached him and asked his religion. When he said Christian, they made
throat cutting motions with their hands. Interesting.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It is 51 km to the Las
Geel track turn off. The road is poor asphalt, with lots of pot holes. There
were a number of police check points along the way. So, assuming one needs a
guard, it would be quickly discovered that you did not have one.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There is a very poor
dirt track to the site and a police guard ~ 500m before the site. At the foot
of the massif,there is a small, interesting information display in a hut. Good
access has been provided to the paintings. The paintings themselves are
impressive. There are about 6 shelters (overhanging rocks). They consist of
cows (not bulls) apparently without heads but with a colourful rectangle in its
place, people (large bodies and legs but small arms and heads) and dogs.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The site setting is
gorgeous, with great views over the surrounding countryside. Avril says just
like the Magaliesberg.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Well worth the trip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On return Ray went out
to buy some lunch and was assisted by everyone. So, maybe the youths yesterday
were just an aberration. Hopefully.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We lazed in the
afternoon and did some computer stuff. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 14/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As it was Friday, the
chef decided to go to prayers and there was to be no breakfast (included in the
price) at the hotel. TIA. Interestingly, with no males around, one of the
(female) house keepers took the opportunity to chat to us. She said that the
folks in Somaliland do not respect differences. She kindly organised some
breakfast. After breakfast, we started back to Ethiopia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had an easy run back
to the border and a simple crossing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Somaliland
Summary</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">This non-country clearly
has a functioning government with civil works being carried out, lots of phone
towers and a strong retail sector (it seemed to us they had better shops than
Addis). Apparently it is a reasonable democracy and has a free press.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">What do you say after 2-3
days? Most of the people were very welcoming. However, this is the most
conservative Muslim country we have been to. There were NO women without long,
drab head covering and lots with just the eye slit in the front. This was so, even
for very young tots. Clearly clothes are a big issue for both men and women. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">For overlanders, it does
seem that apart from the Ethiopia – Hargeisa road, security (an armed soldier)
is needed. This is an issue for us as we only have 2 seats. Hence, we did not
bother to go to Berbera and the beach (we probably could not have gone for a
swim anyway). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-79481812714853798762012-12-10T04:56:00.000-08:002012-12-10T04:56:10.789-08:00Ethiopia 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 9/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Almost as soon as you
cross the border the vegetation gets greener and the trees taller. Along the
way, we noticed rivers with water and other signs that we were in a country that
has rain. Unfortunately we were back to the typical, aggressive and selfish African
driving standards. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road standard and
condition also deteriorated badly; at one point there was a burnt out petrol
tanker and trailer in the middle of the road. It had been there long enough to
have its own garden complete with shrubs and grass. There were also a number of
very bad rock falls blocking the road. The compensating factor was the
wonderful and dramatic Ethiopian scenery. Great mountains and lush valleys.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As we were driving near
dusk, the local herders were bringing their stock (donkeys, cattle and goats)
home. They paid no attention to the vehicle traffic and occupied most of the
road. In Ethiopia there are always a line of people walking along the edge of
the road and the combination of people and livestock makes for difficult and
slow driving.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Unfortunately we did not
make it to Lake Tana but camped at the Belegez Pension in Gondor. We arrived
slightly after dark and for us it is always a bit foreboding to arrive in an
African town at night. There were no street lights, the road condition was
terrible (lots of potholes etc), the local taxis and mini buses pay absolutely
no heed to other vehicles and can stop or pull into traffic at any time and
then there are the great number of people all close to the car. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The good news was the
restaurant across the road from the camp area had nice food AND BEER! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 765 km; 12.5
hrs; N 12<sup>0</sup> 36’ 37.8’’ E 037<sup>0</sup> 28’ 19.7’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 10/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As we had visited Gondor
before, we did not bother to go to the local attractions. We changed some money
and got a SIM card. The telecom company here is owned by the government and an
application needs to be accompanied by a copy of your passport and 2 passport
photos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We started out for
Barhar Dar on a good road. Then, along the way we saw another overlander
vehicle and we flashed our lights and they did the same. Great excitement… it
was Luke and Shelly who we had met in Ghana. We pulled off the road and Luke
put out his awning and we chatted, swapped stories and way-points, had lunch etc
for 3 + hours. So nice to see “old” friends”. We were the object of curiosity
for the locals and they gathered in a
large mob to stare, beg etc. We chased them away a few times, but as soon as
one lot disappeared, another mob would form. Even the police could not disperse
the crowd.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The roads in Ethiopia
are not only for vehicles. There are always people walking along the edges in
both directions. Then there is live-stock being driven from spot to another,
donkey carts carrying goods, bicycles, commercial trucks, buses and mini buses
etc. The cattle wander along the middle of the road, the passenger transport
(buses and mini buses) stop on the road to drop off and pick up passengers –
they do not pull off the road, for this.
No one really pays attention to the vehicles; they assume that the vehicles
will slow, stop or take any or all evasive action to miss them. All this means
the driving is more like an obstacle course than a leisurely drive. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived at a decent
time at the Ghion Hotel. Ray changed some tyres - to put the better tyres at
the rear.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had some beer and
G&Ts and watched an EPL match.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 172 km; N 11<sup>0</sup>
35’ 50.5’’ E 037<sup>0</sup> 23’ 09.8’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 11/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Almost the night from
hell. Apparently Saturday night is the big religious night in Ethiopia. So,
they commenced chanting at ~ 00.00 and did not stop all night. Chanting was via
loud speakers and from multiple locations. It was so loud and incessant that
even Avril could not sleep in, so we set out early for Addis Ababa. The road as
far as Debra Markos is OK to fair. After that to the Blue Nile Gorge it is very
bad. The surface is badly deformed, there are potholes and ditches and
stretches where the road has completely deteriorated to rough stones. Last time
we were in Ethiopia the new bridge over the Blue Nile was being constructed.
The bridge opened in 2008. The approaches are now totally deteriorated. The
surface is very badly deformed with some drops in the surface over 2’. This in
less than 4 years. What hope!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road from the Blue
Nile Gorge to Addis is fine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived at Wim
Holland House mid-afternoon. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 547 km; 8
hrs; N 9<sup>0</sup> 00’ 36.0’’ E 038<sup>0</sup> 45’ 19.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 12/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a bit of a noisy
night, we had a lie-in. We did a few chores and then Ray asked Wim about
leaving the vehicle in Ethiopia whilst we went back to Oz. There was a bit of a
misunderstanding when we crossed the border. Long story, short, we had to get
our Temporary Vehicle Permit extended to match our visa. Ray went to the
customs office and they were quite efficient at getting the paperwork done.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Later in the day, we
went to check out the Djibouti & Somaliland embassies for visas. Again,
Lonely Planet was wrong and they were both closed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Brian & Anna and
Rick showed up later in the day. So another reunion. They had unfortunately had
a bad time in Ethiopia thus far. They had stones thrown at their vehicle, were
spat at and their vehicle was hit with a
stick (a lot of the local men carry ~ 1.5 m wooden poles). In addition, their
shock absorber bushes gave way on the (apparently) dreadful road to Tim &
Kims. One of the bikers hit a donkey and whilst he was repairing the damage,
his tools were stolen and his panniers riffled. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 – 13/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A successful day. We
managed to get both the Djibouti and Somaliland visas. The staff at both
embassies were super helpful and went out of their way to assist us. The
Somaliland embassy was in the process of moving but still issued us a visa on
the spot.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Otherwise, a slow day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 6 – 14/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray had more
administrative duties. The Temporary Vehicle Import document had to be altered
again to reflect a departure to Djibouti. Then he had to arrange insurance –
fortunately this will cover us all the way to RSA, with a couple of small
exceptions<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then needed to go to
the airport to fly back to Oz for a brief visit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We
spent from 15/11/2012 to 28/11/2012 on some business in Oz.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 7 – 30/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a frustrating trip
from Oz (airline delays and late arrivals, spoilt brats and screaming infants)
we finally got back to Addis. After some supermarket shopping we returned to
Wim Holland House and were greeted like old friends. Very nice. The vehicle had
been looked after but was quite dirty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After sorting out packing
etc, we had a meal at Wims and an early night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 8 – 1/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A poor night’s sleep;
religious chanting over microphones <b><u>all</u></b>
night. We tried to make an early start, but needed to have the vehicle cleaned
and fill the water tank. So, we were only on the road by 08:30, in time for the
morning traffic jam. It took ~ 90 mins to get out of the city.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were treated to a
really great drive. The scenery was stunning for most of the day, dramatic
mountains and deep valleys together with some very long vistas. Lonely Planet:
“off the Guassa Plateau and down the dramatic Mezozo escarpment is
unforgettable”. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At the bottom of the
escarpment, the vegetation and culture changed almost immediately. It was a lot
drier, evidenced by the camels.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">According to the GPS we
reached our highest point of the trip thus far – 3277 m, at times we were
literally above the clouds. We then very quickly lost > 1,700 m. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road was excellent
quality tar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On arrival at the hotel
we found that the external plastic water pipe had deteriorated and cracked. We
tried to repair it without shifting the accommodation module but the work area
was too narrow, so we had to lift the module for the 1<sup>st</sup> time on the
trip. Fortunately it worked easily – let’s hope the repair holds.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We
stayed at the Sunny Side Hotel – expensive for Ethiopia and very average. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 372 km; 7
hrs; N 11<sup>0</sup> 05’ 21.9’’ E 039<sup>0</sup> 43’ 03.5’’</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 9 – 2/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Another very poor
night’s sleep – are we getting obsessive about this?? The other guests at the
hotel were intent on partying etc and then the 1<sup>st</sup> departures were
at 04:30am.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again we had a stunning
drive over a number of mountain passes and across some very small valleys. Awesome
scenery.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The driving was quite
intense. The tight mountain bends coupled with the activity on the road meant
that great concentration and even greater patience was needed. The roads in
Ethiopia are not solely for the use of wheeled traffic. Much greater use of the
roads is made by pedestrians and livestock. The herders make little (read no)
attempt to clear the road for vehicles, so we had to stop often to inch our way
past stationary livestock. The urban myth here is that the locals want you to
hit their stock, as the vehicle is always responsible for the damages. There is
almost full time pedestrian traffic along the road. Very often we were
subjected to the aggressive, some-what frenetic chant “you, you, you”
accompanied by the reflex begging that seems to be the norm when Ethiopians see
white people. The bad news of the day was that we were spat at as we drove
along. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The road was good tar,
however on a lot of the mountain pin-head turns it has deteriorated, with the
corners now being gravel and the heavy-duty truck breaking has pushed the
approach tar into waves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived in Mekele in
the late afternoon and were greeted by Barbara & John – friends of friends
who had offered to “put us up” for a couple of nights.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It is very chilly at
nights now and when we went out for dinner, jumpers were needed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 403 km; 8 hrs; N 13<sup>0</sup> 29’ 40.9’’
E 039<sup>0</sup> 28’ 51.7’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 10 – 3/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A good night’s sleep,
despite being woken at 04:00 for more religious chanting. This stopped at ~
07:00, but went on intermittently all day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a lazy start to
the day we went to the travel company running the tour to the Danakil
Depression. We found out that there is a made/asphalt road south out of the depression. So, we
decided to change plans (aimless) and take a 4 night/5 day trip and to finish
up on the main road to Djibouti. Given the history of this area, it is
compulsory to go with a tour company, guides, army, police, local Afar tribe
guide etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a pleasant lunch,
we had a relaxing afternoon and an evening walk with Barbara & John.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 11 – 4/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a pleasant
breakfast with Barbara & John we went down town to start our Danakil tour.
Our group consisted of 4 vehicles including ours. 3 young men doing an
experimental arts degree in Berlin (German, Danish & Norwegian), 4
Americans and a Belgian. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a slightly late
start we drove north out of Mekele. We then branched east through some hills.
We stopped for lunch at a village “restaurant” (we both selected the eggs) where
we picked up some of our protection team – Afar police. There was no let-up in
the incessant/aggressive begging and pestering and Avril was spat at as she sat
in the car.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We dropped from the
Tigray region to the Afar region. We descended 1,400 m down the Rift Valley
escarpment into the Danakil Depression in just a few kilometres. As you can
imagine, this was very spectacular. Then, a little more sedately, we then
descended another ~ 1,100m to our camp area at – 110 m. Along the way we saw a
number of salt caravans transporting salt from Lake Assale to the village where
we had had lunch. Apparently this is a 2 day/1 night trip and they only sleep ~
4 hours on the way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The track we drove along
is basically the one on T4A. There is a lot of road work going on and in a few
years this will probably all be asphalt. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped at the village
of Hamadella. Ray made the mistake of giving some children some clothes. Soon,
we were mobbed by local children all begging or rather demanding shirts. There
was no gratitude; one girl even pouted and demanded a different colour.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 164 km; 7 hrs; N 14<sup>0</sup> 05’ 07.7’’
E 040<sup>0</sup> 16’ 45.5’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 12 – 5/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A poor start to the day.
As soon as we left our accommodation module we were assailed by children
demanding pens, shirts and anything else. Things got a little out of hand and a
child threw a stone at Ray. AND, he responded by giving a couple a whack. Then
our guides got the local Afar police to settle things down. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We made a reasonably
early start to the day in an effort to miss the worst of the heat. We drove off into the Dallol Depression. This
area is geologically very active and we were treated to some amazing sights.
Sulphur structures, acid lakes, geysers etc. A kaleidoscope of colours;
brilliant yellow, deep orange, white and black. One of the chaps doing the
experimental arts degree, stripped off and painted himself purple and his mates
took pictures of him with this unique back drop. Even we could see that this
would be great art – and also took a few pictures. We also went to have a look
at where the salt was being cut and loaded onto the caravans and an area that
had a salt lake. You must be on the internet to read this, so use your
favourite search engine to look up some pictures.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It was quite hot, 40<sup>o</sup>C
in the vehicle and probably a few more out in the open with the reflection of
the white salt all around. In addition to the local Afar police and a town
guide, we had a military escort. The soldiers were professional and when we
stopped, went out to form a protective perimeter. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were back at Hamadella
around 14:00 and camped there again. It is worth mentioning that there are NO
ablutions in the town, so everyone uses what the Army used to call “cat
sanitation”, but there is no digging here. So, everyone has to go into the rock
area around the town; I’ll leave the rest to your imagination. Avril reminded
Ray that very few of her friends would put up with this!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 34 km<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 13 – 6/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We elected to camp
closer to the rest of our group and we not bothered by kids again. We drove
along mud flats and sand to get to the base camp for the trek to the caldera of
the Erta Ale volcano. The driving required concentration, but Avril got through
with no issues.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We needed to stop at a
village to get permits, local police etc. We decided to give out some lollies
and pens to the local kids. And tried to educate them to not say “give me” but
rather “please” – but with no success. One of the kids then drew on the vehicle
in a permanent marker we have given him. Great. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The final 12 km of the
journey was across the lava plains and took more than 2 hours, often we were in
1<sup>st</sup> low.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After dinner (the chef
had done a great job on the trip) we set off for a night time walk to the
caldera. This took about 3 hours and it was a little tricky with head torches. We
had camels to carry any gear. There were about 4 different groups doing the
tour, however it was not crowded and we did not run into other groups. At the
summit there are a number of huts where, in theory, one can get some shut eye.
But with all the guides, army, police, camel drivers etc together with the
ability of Africans to talk non-stop, sleep was difficult. Added to this, were
the different time schedules of the various groups. I think our tour had the
best schedule, setting off at 18:00 and leaving just after sun rise. But,
others left at 04:00.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The lava lake is totally
awesome, astounding, fantastic - well worth all the effort to get there. The
crater is almost circular and the time we were there it seemed to be some way
down the vertical sides – the level varies a lot. The impact at night is stunning,
with fissures in the lava forming changing patterns across the lake. One point
on the perimeter seemed to be in a state of permanent eruption. Then, other
sites around the lake and sometimes in the middle, would erupt as well.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We looked on in awe for
~ 3 hours and then tried to get some sleep. Others slept, or rather kept watch
at the rim for the entire night – but they were all younger than us!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 106 km; 6 hrs; N 13<sup>0</sup> 34’ 22.2’’
E 040<sup>0</sup> 35’ 39.0’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 14 – 7/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We awoke early to get a
final glimpse of the lava lake and watch the sunrise. The lake is a lot less
impressive in the daylight – basically a grey surface with some fiery cracks. We
then walked down to the base camp for breakfast.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As mentioned we had
decided to drive south rather than to return to Mekele. After crossing the lava
flow, the drive was relatively straight forward, but very dusty. As Avril says,
“that horrible powder dust that coats everything”. We used the dust as an
excuse to run the air conditioner. After about 1.5 – 2 hrs of the dust we hit
the tar road. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove onto Lake
Afrera (but we still kept the a/c on!). The Lonely Planet guide raves about
this, but we found it a bit ho-hum after Lake Asale and the volcano. It is
greenish and very salty - Ray had a dip and floated like he was in the Dead
Sea. But, it did not have the geographic attraction of the others sights. Ray
also had a quick bath in the very hot, sweet water spring beside the lake. As
it was early (ish) and there was little attraction in camping beside the lake
in the very hot temperature, we decided to push on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove onto
Semara. After a bit of a search, we found the Aramis Pension, a new, clean
hotel. We had dinner at the Oasis Café – only “fasting food” as it was Friday -
spaghetti with tomato, onion & chilli + importantly, cold beer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The best news was that this
is a Muslim area, so no all-night religious chanting. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 15 – 8/12/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We set off at a reasonable
hour to Djibouti. The road links Djibouti, the “only” port for Ethiopia to the
road system in Ethiopia. So, there was a huge amount of truck traffic. The drivers
show little regard for the smaller vehicles on the road and many seem to think
their trucks are Formula 1 vehicles – they do not have the skills to challenge
Mark Weber. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Fortunately the road is
in very good nick to the border. As a by the by, this shows that the Ethiopians
can construct a decent road that lasts, when they want to.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The border formalities
are ~ 1.5 km before the border and we missed them (no flags or official
buildings etc). Some of the truck drivers queuing to go into Ethiopia pointed
out our error and we turned around. Formalities were completed quickly, with no
hint of corruption. In fact, it seemed that there were officials dedicated to
tourists and they were very helpful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-62146312973926609792012-11-16T22:53:00.001-08:002012-11-16T22:53:22.730-08:00Sudan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 2/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The ferry docked in Wadi
Halfa at ~ 12:00. From the distance the town is as dismal as the blogs suggest.
The efficient Sudan bureaucracy was quickly aboard and the tourists were issued
with their travel passes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Magdi (0121730885) was
there to greet us and after a bit of push and shove our little group was on the
quay side. Magdi ushered us to the customs building some 300 m away, no small
effort in the heat. We quickly passed through customs and then had to lower our
standards and take a <i>Land Rover</i> taxi
to town. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril had ordered the
best place in town. AND, to our surprise we were given a room with evaporative
cooling, fridge and en-suite bathroom, but no windows. The rooms were dirty and
grimy and Avril inspected 5 before selecting our room and then got the local
staff to carry out a superficial clean. The lack of cleanliness continues to
amaze us; there was dirt and falling plaster on the beds and floor, the residue
of the previous guest in the bathroom, the balcony was littered with discarded plastic
bottles etc. But, we were pleased to have some cooling.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then gathered with
Magdi to discuss the forward program. Magdi called Mahmoud in Aswan and was
informed that the barge would leave Aswan 18:00 that day. In the mean -time,
Ray had asked Samir to also call Mahmoud from Cairo and he was told that the
barge would leave the next day, Saturday. The lies continued even after we had
left Egypt! Magdi said that he does not
believe or trust the Egyptians. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Magdi had also arranged
for the official who issues the Photo Permits to come to the hotel and we got
this small piece of bureaucracy out of the way. The cyclists and walker were
keen to start the next day and register with the police in the morning.
Arrangements were made to do this.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We ate at a local
restaurant; deep fried Nile Perch and beans (foul and fasoulia also on offer).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Canjan Hotel. N 21<sup>0</sup>
47’ 41.6’’ E 31<sup>0</sup> 20’ 52.9’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 3/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were up early to wave
off Hannah, Diarmaid and Chris. But, Magdi came around and informed the
cyclists and walker that, as it was the weekend they could not register with
the police (this must be done within 3 days of arriving). Once again, erroneous
information! So they decided to stay an extra day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray wandered with the
others to the local market to get some fruit & veg; Avril just relaxed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We wrote the blog, Avril
did some clothes washing and we chatted to the group and passed the time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray managed to contact
Mahmoud (who for once answered his phone) and was told the barge would arrive
in the afternoon the next day. More lies??? Time will tell.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Chicken for dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 4/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again, we were up early
to wave off Hannah, Diarmaid and Chris. This time they managed to register and
depart. Magdi came around with the Registration stamped in our passports.
Another administrative task completed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Given the time delay, we
were concerned about the state of the accommodation module batteries. It was
super hot and the fridge was probably working overtime. As a precaution, we had
put a number of frozen water bottles in the fridge. But, with the assurance
that the barge would arrive 16:00 on Saturday and the risk of theft, we decided
not to put the solar panels out. We now feared that all our fridge contents
will be mush. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our other concern was
that we have flights back to Australia from Addis Ababa on the 14<sup>th</sup>
November. With all the delays, time was running short.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Chicken for lunch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Later in the day Magdi
phoned us to say he has spoken to the barge captain and the barge has only just
arrived near Abu Simble. No chance it would arrive that day. The barge must
have left on Saturday, not Friday as promised. To Magdi.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We all decided to go for
a tuktuk ride but as we left the building a local man with a top range
Landcruiser jumped up and offered to take us for a ride. We all piled into his
car and were given a tour of the village. On the way we ran into Mizat, the
other local fixer. He told us that our barge only left on Saturday and would
arrive tomorrow morning. He also said the Egyptians just lie! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Over our chicken dinner
Anna’s brother texted that Brian’s EPERB device was showing that the barge had
stopped on the Egypt/Sudan border. So, tomorrow it was! We were all left to
wonder at the blatant and useless lying of the Egyptian officials. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 5/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a restless nights
sleep, our little group met for breakfast and then went to the town to get a
tuktuk to the port. Magdi reported that the barge was yet again running late
and would not dock at 08:00 as planned.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived at the port
at ~ 10:00 and were super excited to see the barge arriving, with our vehicles.
After docking, Ray rushed aboard to start the engine and hopefully salvage some
of the fridge stuff. There were boxes packed all around and almost over the
car. We only noticed later that the workers loading the barge had used the
bonnet of the vehicle as a platform for loading and put a bad dint in it. All 3
bikes had minor items stolen. We managed to offload the vehicle with a minimum
of fuss. The steel ramps that Nile Valley Navigation Company promised would be
loaded in Aswan were not there (surprise, hey) and we broke the packing pallets
they had placed down as a ramp in the process of unloading.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were soon off the
dock and completed the customs process and paperwork very quickly.
Unfortunately the official who accepted money had gone to the bank and so we
needed to wait for him. The port authorities allowed us to leave and pack the
vehicles whilst Magdi waited to pay the necessary fees and get receipts for us.
We were impressed with the efficiency and common sense of the Sudanese
officials. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were finally on the
road at 13:45. It was an extremely hot day, mid 40s and we met Chris, the
walker, around 50 km out of Wadi Halfa, in the middle of a very barren
landscape – harsh desert. With the heat, wind, lack of shade and desert
environment, it was a punishing time for the walkers and cyclists. We were very
worried about Chris. Later we bumped into Diarmaid and Hannah who were also struggling
– we gave them some snacks and lots of encouragement! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a time the road
joined the Nile. We drove alongside the thin strip of vegetation and a
considerable amount of housing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our group; Brian &
Anna and the bikers, Rob, Rob & Rick camped beside the eastern Deffufa
(ancient mud building) near the village of Kerna. Whilst the mound of bricks
may be > 3,500 years old, from a tourist perspective, it was not that
impressive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 338 km;
104.5; N 19<sup>0</sup> 36’ 08.6’’ E 030<sup>0</sup> 26’ 36.1’’. A high
standard tar road until we headed to the Deffufa. The corners were not cambered
all that well, so we needed to slow for turns.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 – 6/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The night noises were
appropriate for the rural setting; donkeys, occasional cow, dogs and roosters to
greet the morning. We were up for sunrise and visited the Deffufa. Having seen
the eastern one, we decided that it was not exciting enough to see the western.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove through to
Dongola and bought some veg and bread. We then drove to Jebel Barkal (the Holy
Mountain – actually more of a hill than a mountain), and lunched by the
pyramids there. We went to see the Temple, but there was an entrance fee and
the guide book said it was ruined, so we did not bother.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove on to Arbata
where we joined the main road to Khartoum. After the freedom of the desert
roads, it was tiring to have a large number of trucks on this road. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We turned off the main
road at the Meroe pyramids, where we camped the night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Apart from the thin border
along the Nile, the drive was through some uninteresting desert – very flat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We noticed that the
driving standard was much higher than a lot of other places we have been to on
our journey. There were no mad, needless manoeuvres to gain an extra mm and at
check points one line formed rather than people forming 10 lanes and
aggressively bumping, hooting etc to push in, truck drivers allowed space for
overtaking etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Sudanese have a
reputation for hospitality and friendliness. Along the way we got lots of waves
and greetings. It was very nice to note that the women here seem more
emancipated. They are quite happy to greet you and chat a bit. Their scarves
are not pulled tight, but rather draped lightly and they often show their hair.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 621 km;
10 hrs; N 16<sup>0</sup> 55’ 57.2’’ E 033<sup>0</sup> 44’ 54.5’’. Again, we
were on good standard tar the whole day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 6 – 7/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had a quiet, desert
camp near the Meroe pyramids. Some of the local kids set up an impromptu
souvenir store for us, near the camp But it is a bit hard for us to buy along
the way as we do not have the space. The Sudaneses respect one’s personal space
and a local chap came and chased the kids away. After a leisurely start to the
day, we visited the pyramids. It is a fairly large site and we basically had
the whole area to ourselves. Unfortunately the pyramids here are not intact. An
Italian bloke dynamited the top off all the pyramids looking for treasure in ~
1834. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After the pyramids we
went on to the two temple complexes at Musawwarat Es sufra and Naqa. The sites
are probably more interesting to a keen archaeologist rather than a casual
tourist. There was not all that much of them and after the grandeur of Egyptian
temples, they are small and without a lot of detail.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Driving from one temple
complex to the other, we managed to get bogged in the only bit of sand around.
Brian towed us out, one of the many advantages of travelling with others. The
drive itself was quite interesting across the desert and scrub. In contrast to
other parts of Africa, there was not a lot of people or livestock around. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The day took a bit
longer than expected and we did not arrive at the Blue Nile Yacht Club until
after dark. We went to the local “Steers” restaurant for dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were very unimpressed
with the facilities at the Blue Nile Yacht Club – a traditional overlander camp.
They were very dirty and there was no water in the girls’ shower for the whole
time we were there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 301 km; 9
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 7 – 8/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We spent the day doing a
few chores and hanging out at the (only) a/c shopping centre, the temperature
remained in the high 30’s to low 40’s. Ice Cream was a key factor in Avril’s
decision to shop there. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril had a “chat” to
the camp site manager about the ablutions and he variously said: “not all
Sudanese are nice” (our experience was that he was the only exception to the
accepted norm that in fact all Sudanese are very nice); pointing to the mess in
the club camp area “Africa is dirty, you should get used to it” and with the
lack of water “Africa does not have water”. We were still expected to pay full
price!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">We also tool a taxi to the junction of the Blue and White Nile</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 8 – 9/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We set off very early
with the aim of getting to a camp ground on Lake Tana in Ethiopia. However, the
traffic gods were against us. The commercial traffic was heavy, the road
conditions not great (though the road is paved the whole way, at times we felt
like we were riding a mechanical bull) and police and other stops meant we did
not make the time we wanted to.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The toll booths are an
interesting experience; there is a chap standing outside and he has a witch’s
hat which he places in front of each car as they (finally) get to the booth. It
seemed to us that a critical KPI was his ability to have a long conversation
with each car. He would then take any money due and pass it to the man in the
booth. The man in the booth would then hand- write a receipt and stamp it. He
would hand it back to the chap outside the booth who would the pass it to the
driver. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As we made our way
south, the desert gave way to Sahel type country and then a massive cereal cropping
area with huge paddocks. There were a couple of small mountain ranges, kopjes,
to break the endless flat plains. We also noticed that the houses changed from
the typical flat desert house to a traditional circular structure with a
conical grass roof.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We made sure we filled
up our tanks (gasolina here) as it was supposed to be a lot cheaper than
Ethiopia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As seems to be our
habit, we arrived at the post at prayer time. But, it seemed to us that prayer
time = the time we get there i.e. it bares little or no resemblance to the time
on a watch. Anyway, we waited for an hour for the man with the stamp to come
back. Whilst waiting, we changed a rear tyre that had developed a leak. Tyres
again!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The formalities on both
sides of the border were quick and efficient – when the person was there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It remained very hot all
the time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Sudan
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We like Sudan. The folks
are as welcoming as their reputation – always lots of waves and smiles. We did
not find the bureaucracy too hard and the Sudanese try to make it easy e.g.
with the forms being done on the ferry, allowing us to leave the port area even
though we had not completed all the customs formalities. It was a delight to
drive with people who are not aggressive, who do not push in and show
consideration for other drivers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The roads are mostly
good to OK. “Wild Camping” is easy and no hassle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The biggest downer was
that it was hot the whole time we were there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Bradt guide was
useful = 8/10. Again, the Riese Knowhow maps were very disappointing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-19264974711254807462012-11-04T22:30:00.003-08:002012-11-04T22:30:59.210-08:00Egypt<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 19/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The crossing into Egypt
was as chaotic and bureaucratic as anticipated.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Immigration took only 5
minutes. They could not issue a visa there (apparently they did not have the
facilities to accept money) so took an innovative step of giving us an entry
stamp, but we will need to buy the visa on exit. To get the stamp we had to go
through a dark and very dingy office complex to the departures hall. In this
area, we also managed to change some money with the ‘changers” and buy an
active SIM card.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After this, the post
stopped for Friday prayers. Following a 20 min wait, we queued for a customs inspection.
In typical Egyptian fashion, this involved many traffic lanes merging into a
single lane, people pushing in etc. Fortunately a “facilitator” had decided we
were his dinner ticket for the day and quietly attached himself to us. He
directed the traffic to make sure we got into the queue. The customs inspection
took some time. They hopped into the box and made a complete mess. They also
opened most of our doors to have a look inside the cupboards. Then a lot of our
bags had to be x-rayed. Avril was concerned with the security of our bags, as
they exited the x-ray unit around a corner, so she kept a very keen eye on
events.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The rest was very
confusing. But it did involve handing over money at regular intervals. The
carnet bloke was one of the most obese people Ray had seen and he proved to be a
big delay in the process. Some of the offices were exceptionally hard to find
in the dark rabbit warren office complex.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Anyway, after ~ 3 hours
we had our carnet stamped, new number plates for the vehicle, insurance, a
laminated Egyptian card with the vehicle registration details on it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The facilitator was well
worth the UK £ 20 we paid!!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to Masa
Matruth and arrived just at dark. We stayed at the Beau Site Hotel. Avril
negotiated for us to get the residents rate – LE 377. It is a very nice hotel
with BEER and a fine dinner (unfortunately Ray managed to get a very bad dose
of diarrhoea from the dinner).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 370 km; 9
hrs; N 31<sup>0</sup> 21’ 44.1’’ E 027<sup>0</sup> 13’ 16.06’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 20/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove straight to
Cairo – and were pleasantly surprised at how smooth the traffic flowed. A
number of the very bad intersections we remembered have been replaced by
traffic lights etc. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Tony & Jo Pearce had
kindly invited us to stay with them, which was fantastic. So we chatted with
them and had a beer and a very delicious BBQ dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 449 km; 5
hrs; N 29<sup>0</sup> 57’ 23.5’’ E 031<sup>0</sup> 15’ 57.7’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 21/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Samir, our driver from
when we lived in Cairo, had taken leave and rented a car so he could drive us
around. Our 1<sup>st</sup> chore was to apply for Ethiopian Visas. The address on
the internet was incorrect, so it took some time to find the embassy. When we did, we were
a bit late for a same day service.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then went to the
Australian embassy to get a letter for the Sudan visa. This involved us
executing a “stat dec” absolving Australia of any involvement in assisting us
if we had issues in Sudan. The letter basically said that as Australian
Passport Holders, we were Australian citizens! We met one of the staff there,
Christine, and had a good natter for a couple of hours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then caught up with
Dr Mustafa, the BG doctor, had a chat and got his advice on some drugs. Then we
went to the pharmacy to get dozycycline for Malaria and Ray’s statins for 5
months.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the evening we caught
up with Dave and Mary Simmonds. They had done the Sudan ferry and most of the
route we will do, so we got their advice and GPS tracks etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 22/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the morning Ray took
the car for a service. Then Samir drove him back to pick up Avril and to
collect our Ethiopia visas at ~ 13:30. Then to the Sudan embassy. However, they
only take passports between 09:00 and 13:00, so we missed the day’s window.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It seems to us that
Cairo’s traffic is worse than ever and we spent ages in the car. In addition,
the air pollution was worse than we remembered. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5– 23/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Another frustrating day.
We arrived before the Sudan embassy opened, the doors opened at 09:00, but the
staff did not attend until 09:30. TIA. Then, we were told (very rudely) that we
could not pick up our passports until tomorrow. This seemed to be at the whim
of the visa official. The USA passport holder behind us could collect his at the
same day at 14:00, but was charged $150, not the $100 we were charged. There
were a couple of Brits there as well, and they did not need Ethiopian visas nor
a letter from their embassy. TIA<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray went back at 14:00
and managed to see the consular official and the visas were ready, but we can
only collect tomorrow. Mmmm, this attitude may explain some of the issues in
Sudan. TIA<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray picked up the car,
which seemed to have been given a very decent service. He also purchased a new
tyre to replace the new BFGoodrich that had developed a bubble. Very
unfortunately only a similar BFGoodrich was available. We will run on the
Goodyear and hope tha itt lasts and keep
the new BFGoordich as a spare.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril went and visited some
of her old stomping places – one of her many tennis clubs where the gatekeeper,
the coaches and the ballboys recognised her after an absence of 5 years! Avril
claimed that it was because she was a good player and a nice person, while Ray
reckons it was because she was a good “tipper”!! Even the greengrocer and the
flower-seller remembered her!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had been
investigating the ferry from Aswan to Wadi Halfa in Sudan. With the Eid period,
unfortunately, they had decided not to run the ferry over the holiday period.
However, there was an additional ferry on Thursday 1<sup>st</sup> November. We
spoke to the famous/infamous Mr Salah (01283160926), who apparently now only
does the people ferry. He told us that with the Thursday departure we needed to
start the departure process very quickly on Tuesday. There was a suggestion
that the vehicle ferry may depart on Tuesday. He gave us the number of Mr
Rashaad (?) (01090772410) who apparently now organises the vehicle and cargo
barge. We called him and spoke to him in both English and Arabic and confirmed that
we had a place on the barge for the vehicle and would also be able to get
tickets for the passenger ferry, also leaving on the same Thursday (Nov 1<sup>st</sup>).
We felt quietly confident that things would work out.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 6– 24/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Another day of chores.
We picked up our passports complete with visas. Ray then went to get the new
tyre fitted to the rim, only to find that they had put a 17” tyre in the car
rather than the 16” Ray had pointed to. So, another trip into town. Lesson: not
enough QA by Ray! The tyre was then put on the rim. Avril sorted out the
clothes and cleaned the accommodation module. Then, chores finished, we
relaxed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray went for coffee with
Nebil Younis, a colleague from BG days. After coffee, Nebil took Ray on a
diesel/solar/naptha/gasoil hunting expedition. There is a major shortage of
diesel in Egypt. Apparently, cash strapped, they have not paid for recent
deliveries and so, the traders and banks have stopped delivering. This has
meant that some of the foreign exchange earners e.g. tourism have suffered and
some trips etc to Luxor have been cancelled. Folks do not seem to be happy at
all with the new government here. Anyway, we found a place that was getting a
delivery that night and resolved to go very early the next day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Tony, Jo and family left
for a trip to Singapore and Bangkok, so we were “home alone”. A huge thanks to
them. It was very nice to have a luxury pad to return to after the day’s
exploits.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 7– 25/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It was the start of the
Eid holiday and so the roads were not too busy. We returned to the previously
identified service station and after queuing for 30 minutes managed to fill our
tanks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to Soma Bay,
a Red Sea resort area south of Hurgada. There was a mess up with our booking
and the reception staff decided that “giving attitude” was the way to resolve
this. As you can imagine, this did not go down too well with Ray and he had a
wee chat to the manager. A solution was found, but it did leave a sour taste.
We found that the Sheraton at Soma Bay was OK, but as they charged us European
type rates, it was poor value for money. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On the way we did manage
to fill up with diesel once. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then, we had a chance to
relax, with a walk around the resort complex and along the beach.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 507 km; 6
hrs; N 26<sup>0</sup> 50’ 46.8’’ E 033<sup>0</sup> 59’ 48.7’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 8– 26/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A relaxing day around
the pool, reading and swimming. Dave and Mary Simmonds came to the hotel for a
chat and a bit of lunch. On the return to their hotel, they reported that there
was diesel back towards Hurgada, so Ray jumped in the car and made a successful
dash to fill up the tanks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 9– 27/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We relaxed around the
pool in the morning and in the afternoon drove to Luxor. There is no convey
anymore, which makes the trip a little easier and more convenient. The drive is
mainly through the desert to the Nile and then along a canal for ~ 60 km. The
initial stages are along a wadi and are quite spectacular. The drive along the
canal gives a good idea of the villages and farming in the Nile valley. Again, the Eid holiday meant there was not a
lot of traffic so we had an easy time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We found the Rezeiky
Camp quickly. On arrival we were informed that there was a group of children
(turned out to be ~ 100+!) but the noise should stop at 21:00 or 22:00 latest.
We met an American biker (Rob) and had a few cold beers. We then retired and
waited for 21:00 or 22:00.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 429 km; 10
hrs; N 32<sup>0</sup> 48’ 59.3’’ E 012<sup>0</sup> 22’ 42.6’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 10– 28/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As intimated, we had the
night from hell. The children were continually excited/reved up by the
organisers. Initially there was a band and later the organisers reverted to a
loud hailer/bull horn to ensure maximum noise. The children were organised for
games and this seemed to involve even more noise, yelling, stamping, clapping
etc. At 23:00 Ray went to have a chat to management and though they sympathised,
they did nothing. Then at 23:45, Rob, who had a room at the hotel also had
words and successfully removed the loud hailer from the mix. After 00:00 most
of the kids went to bed but some ~ 8 yo’s stayed up to 02:00 playing soccer. We
will not even mention the chickens and dogs in the compound.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Anyway, having had no
sleep and finding out the kids were there for a further couple of days, we
managed to get a room in the Luxor Sheraton (but our points balance is now very
low!!).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We went for a walk to
Luxor temple and had a bite of lunch at a balcony overlooking the temple. We
went for a walk along the Cornishe, but the experience was not very pleasant.
Every 2 minutes you have to go through the ritual: <i>“Hello. Where are you from? Welcome etc” </i>then comes the inevitable:
do you want a felucca, see my shop, horse carriage, taxi, clothes, scarf etc
etc etc etc. So, instead of having a nice walk along the Nile, it became an
ordeal to just get to a destination. We appreciate they are only trying to make
a living and are always polite. It seems that tourist numbers are way down, so
that may also give additional pressure. However, there is no recognition of the
needs of the tourist, maybe they would just like a quiet stroll. The
consequence of this is that most tourists stay in their hotels and are bussed
to the sites. They do not want the hassle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had heard that some
Naptha/diesel/solar/gasoil maybe available from a point under the bridge
heading into town. So, we quickly scurried along and managed to get our tanked
filled. This was “black market” fuel (from an ordinary pump etc). The cost was
LE 1.50 v LE 1.1 normally. Still very cheap.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then went to the
Sheraton, which has been refurbished since last time we were here and sat
around the pool sans children’s carnival for the afternoon. In the evening we
went to the Karnak sound & light show. The show has changed since our last
visit, but we still enjoyed being in the temple complex.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Rezeiky Camp is very
basic. Given the African/Arab approach to ablutions, you can imagine the state
of the facilities with so many kids. The owners were apologetic, but it would
really take a lot to get us to go back. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 429 km; N
32<sup>0</sup> 48’ 59.3’’ E 012<sup>0</sup> 22’ 42.6’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 11– 29/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove to Aswan. On
the way, we visited the Edfu and Kom Ombo temples. We have been to both temples
a few times before, but it was still great to wonder at the ancients, their
religion and their buildings. The commercial activities, shops etc are kept
outside the temple complex, so you can enjoy the temples without hassle. That
said, the kids in the car parks are very persistent with their begging and
demands – it seems the only way to get rid of them is to be rude from the
beginning. It is a pity, but they are very persistent and take any sign of
politeness as weakness and a reason to go in harder.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We managed to fill with
fuel just before Aswan – a real bonus. Then we went on a recce to ensure we
knew where the various offices we would need to visit to organise the car were
located in Aswan and the port. We sent texts messages to Mr Salah and Mr
Rashaad to let them know we had arrived.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then went to Adam
House, the only place to camp in Aswan. The facilities are very basic. The
vehicles camp under some trees ~ 3 – 4 m from the road. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We met Anna (Swedish)
and Brian (Zimbabwean) overlanders with a Landcruiser, Rob (RSAer) with a motor
bike) and Diarmaid (Irish) and Hannah(Scottish)
who are cycling down the east side. It was wonderful to meet other folks
on a similar journey. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">They had been waiting
variously for up to 2 weeks for the ferry, but had been told it would load the
next day. So, we hurriedly packed bags for a few days in Aswan without the
vehicle. This all seemed positive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 429 km; 10
hrs; N 32<sup>0</sup> 48’ 59.3’’ E 012<sup>0</sup> 22’ 42.6’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 12– 30/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As you can imagine
camping close to the road meant only one thing, traffic noise. Apparently the
village is “quiet” and “small”. The traffic was heavier than Bourke St on a
Saturday night. Small must be a comparative term? In common with a lot of
Egypt, there are also packs of feral dogs (though they seem to have had a
culling in Cairo). The dog packs around Adam House looked to have taken up the
wolf approach and howled/barked in competition most of the night. The 04:30
call to prayer came from at least 10 mosques in the area and was not the
“normal” 5 – 10 minutes but went on for 30+ min.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Soooo, we did not get a
lot of sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We wanted to get to the
port early and see what the administrative burden and procedures for the
vehicle were. We asked at the gate and were told to chat to Mr Mahmoud Idries
(01006845201). Mahmoud, an employee of Nile Valley Navigation Co arrived soon
after and we chatted. He then went inside to see what the story was. In the
meantime, we phoned Mr Salah and he said, we needed to talk to Mr Rashaad. So,
when Mahmoud returned, we said we wanted to do this. This meant we needed to
get a pass for Ray to enter the port and this involved a LE 10 bribe to the
police at the gate – no option. Ray sat with Mr Rashaad for some time whilst
they confirmed that Wadi Halfa could accept the vehicle barge and that there
was space for our car, Brian’s vehicle and Rob’s motorbike.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray then went outside
and chatted to the other travellers about the situation. The ferry would not
load that day, but we needed to be there early the next day to complete
procedures and load the vehicles. 100%.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Mahmoud also said that a
fixer, Kamal would have to arrange to have the court clearance (to say we did
not have any traffic infringements) done and have the traffic police come to
the port to return our Egyptian car registration and number plates and to have
the carnet signed. Also, having read other blogs, we were confident that we
could complete the formalities ourselves. But, we did not want to rock the boat
so went along with the fixer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Brian was a little
nervous as another fixer, Mohamed Abouda (01225111968) had tried to latch onto
them and was now threating that if they did not use/pay him he would make sure
their car did not make the barge. Nice!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We spent the rest of the
day doing internet ad having a few beers.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 13– 31/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">With the noise, we had
another poor night’s sleep. We got to the port early and Mahmoud came to look
after us. A group of 3 Finish lads in a Landcruiser also show up. At 09:30
“our” fixer, Kamal showed up. He immediately came across as a buffoon (drunk or
high on hasheesh!). We all paid our LE
10 bribe to be allowed to enter the port. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Mahmoud took the drivers
to purchase barge tickets for the vehicles. But, the men selling the tickets
needed instructions from their boss, so we waited for him. This boss is a
small, blind man who yells aggressively and a lot. After a shouting match
between the blind man and Mahmoud, we were allowed to purchase tickets but a
Sudanese man was “bumped” from the barge. After paying, we were very confident
– given we had tickets, we were on the way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The drivers returned to
the vehicles and as we had barge tickets and port entry passes we were allowed
to proceed through the gate. We stopped immediately after the entry gate for a
customs inspection. Kamal instructed us to pay LE 40 to the customs official.
Given he had pre-agreed this with the official, we had no real choice. The <i>quid pro quo</i> is that we were not searched.
The customs man leered at Avril through the window and made some inappropriate
comments. He moved onto Brian’s car and found an excuse to extract further
funds (they had a fishing knife in their car!). He leered at Anna and again
made some very inappropriate remarks and also invaded her personal space. Mmm,
Ray thought any more of that and we would have had some very serious words. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then proceeded to the
customs area to get our carnets stamped. The Finish boys took the opportunity
to race ahead of everyone (they were the 4<sup>th</sup> vehicle in line). They
are the 1<sup>st</sup> Finish people we have met and this did not go down well.
Ray told them their behaviour was inappropriate. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Carnet stamping man,
Mr Hamam (?) then said that the barges would not be loaded until tomorrow, so
we had the option of leaving our cars there (LE 30) or coming back tomorrow and
completing the paper work. Given we had our tickets, we were confident that tomorrow
would be fine and so we all decided to camp another night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Later that afternoon one
of the group received a call from Mahmoud. There was a problem and he needed to
see us. So we all gathered at 20:30 (Mahmoud managed to get lost on the way).
The barge our vehicle was booked on also needed to have general cargo loaded.
Customs had not cleared all the cargo and the Sudanese’s fixer who was to pay
for the freight, buggered off for Eid and had not been seen and had not paid.
The best guess was Saturday! This was a problem for us as we needed to take the
passenger ferry the next day (Thursday) and this would have meant leaving our
vehicles at Aswan with no guarantee when they would leave. We debated and argued
and it was agreed we would see the port management in the morning to see if we
could rent a separate barge or work out any other way to get an earlier
departure.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 14– 1/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again another poor night’s
sleep, with the added stress of not being certain about our vehicle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived at the port
early and Ray and Rob went to see Mr Rashaad and his boss Mr Fouaad. Mahmoud
did the talking, explaining that we could not wait until Saturday for our
vehicles to leave and we were looking for a solution. The solution was that we
could put our vehicles on another barge that was currently loaded with lentils.
However, we needed to shift some of the bags of lentils to make space! We needed
to organise some labour to shift the bags. This seemed like a good solution and
was endorsed by Mr Rashaad and his boss. We later saw Mr Rashaad on the lentil
barge looking over things.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Mahmoud went looking for
the labour organiser and we purchased our passenger ferry tickets. To our joy,
we had been honoured with 1<sup>st</sup> class tickets. This meant our own
cabin rather than the deck with the great unwashed! We proceeded through the
port gates and onto the carnet man, Mr Hamam. Kamal insisted we pay Mr Hamam LE 50 to get the
carnet signed. This time, Ray objected and Kamal remonstrated. But again, given
the time pressure, we were left with little choice. It is clear that Kamal is
the facilitator of bribes, so he ensures that we pay the bribes so he
ingratiates himself to the officials and gets to continue the corruption. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to the
vehicle loading area. As we had entered Egypt without a visa (no-one to take
the fee at the border), Kamal then needed to get us a visa so we could exit.
There are no facilities at the port, so he went to the airport, only to find that
immigration there was closed (1pm on a workday!). So, he had to go way back
into Aswan to get the visas. We had wanted to do this the day before, but Kamal
insisted that it was easy and we could do it on the day of departure. Anyway,
this was all sorted and we had our immigration exit stamp. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then we waited and waited.
Ray went to find Mahmoud. He was with Mr Fouaad, Mr Rashaad and the blind
shouting man. It seemed then that we were to go back to the original barge, but
that it would leave 13:00 Friday and arrive in Wadi Halfa 16:00 Saturday. Ray
objected, saying how could we have any confidence in yet another arrangement. All 3 men guaranteed the timing and called Mr
Salah who also confirmed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray: never before have I
been so consistently and blatantly lied to. 1<sup>st</sup> we were meant to leave
Tuesday, then 100% Wednesday, then 100% Thursday, then a promise for Friday –
time will tell. It is clear that all the people we have been talking to have
lied the whole way. This is exceptionally disappointing as we have not struck
such systemic dishonesty anywhere else in Africa, or elsewhere for that matter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">What were we to do? Time
had run out and we needed to load the cars and board the vehicle ferry.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Putting the cars on the
barge involved lots of shouting and instructions from almost everyone in the
area. The area available to turn onto the loading ramps was very tight and Ray
decided the best way was to do a multi-point turn so that our vehicle was
perpendicular to the barge rather than trying to turn onto the ramps. When
Avril started her approach, there was again lots of shouting. Time for
aggressive Ray. They could ALL shut up and we would do it the way described!
Kamal insisted that he should drive the vehicle on. Yeah, not! So, with everyone
watching, Avril completed the manoeuvre in immaculate style. The vehicle sat on
top of one of the cargo hold covers!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then, Kamal demanded his
payment, the men who shifted the ramps demanded baksheesh, Mahmoud wanted a
present. Kamal asked to borrow our phone to make a quick call and used most of
the available credit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The continual harassment
did not stop until we were on board. The 1<sup>st</sup> class cabin was a
filthy, disgusting, dingy “box” that smelt terribly. Avril identified the smell
as mould and all this for A$150 – an absolute disgrace!! The toilets were
almost unusable before we had even departed! We chatted to our fellow
travellers, had a bite to eat, had our Sudanese visas stamped and went to bed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 15– 2/11/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We have been so sleep
deprived that we slept very well. We drifted past Abu Simble and our final
glimpse of Egypt.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Egypt
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Disappointingly, after
DRC, we found Egypt to be the worst country of the trip so far. We had been
warned that people had lost respect for the police but did not appreciate how
this would translate into chaos on the roads. Drivers show no consideration for
anyone else, drive on the wrong side of the road etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We found no one with a
kind word for the new government. The lack of diesel being just one of the most
obvious issues.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Aswan is without doubt the
most corrupt border crossing we have been through (remember, Egypt is country
no.33!). It is totally endemic and with everyone demanding bribes, it is hard
to move unless you pay. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Most disturbing was the
continual lying by the Nile Valley Navigation Co staff at all levels. Never
before have we struck such aberrant behaviours. The road from Aswan to Wadi
Halfa, complete with border crossing, was completed some time ago. There are 2
theories why it is not open; either the ferry company staff want to continue to
get income or the new president wants to get credit for the construction. The
blogs talk romantically of going through this ferry & barge ordeal as a rite
of passage and that when they have gone, something great will be lost. Maybe
for the masochists, but for Avril & Ray, we would much prefer a low stress
road to Sudan.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">For Egypt and their
people, it would seem they have entered a downward spiral and it will be very
tough for them to get out of it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Aswan
for Overlanders<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In general we found
Aswan port to be the most corrupt customs post of our journey.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Nile Valley
Navigation Company is the most incompetent, disorganised, dishonest and unethical
organisation we have ever been involved in (and those who know Ray’s background
will appreciate that this is quite a statement).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Mr Salah (01283160926)
appears to now only handle the passenger ferry. He will refer you to Mr Rashaad
for the vehicle barge. Mr Salah will only issue a passenger ticket when your
vehicle is on the barge. This is easily done on the day of departure.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We only managed to get
Mr Rashaad (01090772410) to answer his phone once (from Cairo to confirm a
vehicle booking). Hence, it is a problem to contact him and make arrangements.
In addition, his English is basic (but better than my non-existent Arabic!), so
it is difficult to have a complex conversation.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The easy way would seem
to be to contact Mr Mahmoud Idris (01006845201). He speaks good English and can
make contact and organise for you to see Mr Rashaad. Getting to see the right
person and confirming a booking and schedule are the biggest uncertainties. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">To obtain a ticket for
the barge requires the approval of the blind shouting man. We could not work
out is position/role, but you need him to approve your vehicle ticket.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">You do not need a fixer.
The procedure is very straight forward (the blog “gapyear4x4” gives clear
directions on all the steps, directions to offices etc):<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Court Clearance to confirm no traffic violations, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">return
the number plates, vehicle registration card/licence and pink copy of the
vehicle ticket to the police<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">go
to the port and clear customs <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Drive
down the road a bit and get the carnet stamped.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Proceed
to a holding area<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Load
the vehicle<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The fixer Kamal
(01005322669) who assisted us is a buffoon. He facilitates/perpetuates the
corrupt system of bribes with the Customs people. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The fixer Mohamed Abouda
(01225111968) seems to be a very nasty piece of work. He tried threats,
standover tactics, intimidation etc to try and extract funds from Brian &
Anna. He lied to the bikers, Rob & Rick.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The main problems seem
to be:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">getting
in touch with the right person to get barge space for a vehicle transfer<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">sorting
out the schedule and accurate times/dates for the vehicle barge <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The
systemic customs corruption and the lies told by the Nile Valley Navigation
Company staff regarding vehicle transfer. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A strong warning must be
given about the Nile Valley Navigation Company people. Whilst you must deal
with them, you cannot believe them. So, whilst they may give assurances, times,
dates etc this should all be taken with a huge degree of scepticism. Sad, but
true. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-7276637614087727312012-10-20T13:10:00.002-07:002012-10-20T13:10:45.230-07:00Libya<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1– 15/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Clearly it is still not
normal for western/foreigners to enter Libya overland. Still, our business
visas passed muster! There were some questions about our sponsor, so we showed
the email from Libya travel with the details and all that passed quickly.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Getting the carnet
stamped was another matter. Maybe we should not have bothered. Still, after a
bit of a wait it was completed, unfortunately the customs officer took both the
entry and exit portion. So we will see what happens on exit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had read about the Libyan
drivers, but nothing could prepare you for the actual event. There is a divided
road, 4 lane highway from the border. That did not stop folks driving on the
wrong side! They drive super fast and only need 1 mm to squeeze past a slightly
slower vehicle in a passing manoeuvre. That 1 mm includes allowing for the
oncoming traffic to break hard and swerve to avoid a fatal crash. Actually,
they are probably not as good as they think
they are, as along the road side there were a great number of burnt out wrecks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We decided to stay at
Sabratha for the night. We asked directions from a chap at the side of the road
and he brought a fluent English speaker – very broad Irish accent! They shut
their shop and jumped in their car to show us the way. Then at the well known
Roman site we asked about accommodation.
This chap also hopped into his car to show us the way. He was the
curator of the site. The Youth Hostel appeared to be closed. We went to another
hotel, but could not find any staff to show us a room, so with the assistance
of our guide, we went on to another hotel. Avril checked this out, but it
definitely did not pass her scrutiny. So, unfortunately we had to go for the 5
star resort down the road – bugger. The Hotel Tellel Complex was very nice. It
cost Dinar 180 for dinner, bed & breakfast.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The beach looked quite
solid and folks a little more adventurous than us could well camp nearby.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 429 km; 10
hrs; N 32<sup>0</sup> 48’ 59.3’’ E 012<sup>0</sup> 22’ 42.6’’Day 1– 15/10/12<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2– 16/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Find a Bank. Roman
ruins. After a leisurely breakfast, we filled up the main fuel tank in the car.
As promised it was A$ 0.10/<i>l</i>! The
manager of the hotel had told us there was an ATM in town. And so there was, in
fact a few ATMs and a very nice man went out of his way to guide us (via car)
to the various places. Unfortunately, none would accept our credit card. So, we
went in search of a bank to change money, but they do not seem to do that in
Libya. So, we went searching for a money changer – but no luck. So we gave up
and went to visit the Sabratha Roman ruins. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The ruins are very
impressive and as the guide book says, the location on the coast adds to the
appeal. The theatre is exceptional and the mausoleum notable. Most of the site
it yet to be excavated, but there are still a lot of temples, columns, mosaics
etc that kept us occupied for a couple of hours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to
Tripoli, searching for banks along the way. We stopped at a number of banks,
but none had operating ATMs or could change money. We (OK, Ray) were starting
to worry a little. Then, Amen bank to the rescue. They had a number of
operating ATMs and a few vehicles with mobile ATMs. Unfortunately, the machine
snapped one of Ray’s cards, but we managed to get it out and withdraw with
another card (lesson: you can never have too many cards). We withdrew the money
just before the start of the Tripoli ring road, so we avoided the city center
and used the ring road all the way to the east of the city. We can accurately
report that the city drivers are as bad as the country drivers. Very scary, the
speed and overtaking manoeuvres. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stopped on the way to
fill the reserve tank. After filling, Ray had a senior moment and left the key
on the pump – and only found out much later. Fortunately, we have a spare (lesson:
you can never have too many keys).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our final stop for the
day was the exceptional Leptis Magna ruins. For once the World Heritage stamp
meant something. The ruins are vast with much still in place. This was the home
town of local boy, Septimius Severus, made good – all the way to Emperor. So,
lots had been done to make the city impressive. The Arch of Septimius Severus
at the entrance just being a taste of the great ruins: baths, nymphaeum, colonnaded
street, forum (old and new), Severan Basilica, more temples, churches, arches,
an amphitheatre etc. we wandered around for a few hours – no one else was at
the site. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped at a clearly
marked place to camp, with ordinary facilities near the entrance to the ruins. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 223 km; N
32<sup>0</sup> 37’ 54.2’’ E 014<sup>0</sup> 17’ 23.6’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3– 17/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A very long day. The
Libyan love affair with octane and cars did not end until the early hours of
the morning; hence we had a very poor sleep. We got up early to start our long
drive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The landscape in
southern Tunisia and in Libya is quite flat and uninteresting to monotonous.
So, the drive is a bit of a task. The Libyan drivers kept us very focussed on
the road – driving is akin to a session in a simulator with all sorts of
obstacles etc appearing in weird locations. A hard aspect for us was to predict
passing distances with the oncoming traffic approaching at + 160 km/hr. The
roads are in fairly good nick; however an interesting obstacle is the complex
arrangement of single and dual carriage ways. At times we needed to drive on
the “wrong” side of the dual carriage way, but it was not clear when this was
necessary/appropriate. In general, we just followed the vehicles in front.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There were many road
blocks and we were stopped a few times. On one occasion the young militiaman
was a bit agro. The local Libyans quickly came to our aid and we passed on
quickly.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There is not too much
evidence of the war, apart from the large number of armoured vehicles along the
road -those at the road blocks presumable as trophies. Some of the others show
the impact of an air strike on a vehicle – best not to be in the vehicle we
would guess.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived in Benghazi
on dusk and with no assistance found our way to the recommended hotel, only to
find it was full. They directed us to sister hotel, Juliana Hotel, a couple of
hundred meters down the road but it also was full. We asked the chaps at the
desk to assist and ring another hotel in town. They started to do this, but did
not want us to go into the middle of town, so gave us a suite at a reduced
rate, LD 220, still expensive but it was late.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Along the way today we
noticed that the rear, right tyre had developed a bubble on the outside. We
nursed it to the hotel and after check-in Ray changed the tyre. Still this is
very annoying, a new tyre! This is the 2<sup>nd</sup> time that BFGoodrich
tyres have done this on our vehicle. No other tyre has done it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 882 km; 11
hrs; N 32<sup>0</sup> 05’ 03.5’’ E 020<sup>0</sup> 02’ 46.1’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4– 18/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After getting a bit
bamboozled by Benghazi traffic, we made our way to Cyrene. Some of the journey
was marked green on the Michelin map. There were some small, rolling hills, but
maybe the green was out of sympathy as these were only non flat bits we have
seen thus far.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Cyrene was originally a
Greek city before the Romans took it over. It is a vast site and justly rates a
World Heritage stamp. We spent a couple of hours wandering the site – again we
were the only tourists on the site. We are a bit “Romaned out”, so probably did
not give the site its full due. We did look at the all the ruins mentioned in
the guide book, but this site probably needs much more.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">From Cyrene we drove to
the sea. The drive from Appoloninana/Marsa Susah to Darman along the ocean was
wonderful and fully deserved its Michelin green. We had a nice picnic
overlooking the ocean. Along the way we needed to ask directions; an English
speaker seeing we were asking questions, drove out of his way to check we were
alright. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then we drove to Tobruk,
stopping at the Knightsbridge Commonwealth Cemetery to honour the soldiers
there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stayed at the Al Masira
hotel (LD 135) the best in town apparently. Again, we found the place with the
help of folks we asked on the road.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 485 km; 9 hrs; N 32<sup>0</sup> 04’ 20.1’’ E
023<sup>0</sup> 58’ 03.4’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5– 19/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A disappointing start to
the day. When Ray went out to start packing he found that the 2 side doors of
the accommodation box had been forced. Fortunately only a torch and 2 (new) BBQ
lighters were stolen. Still, this is the 1<sup>st</sup> time our vehicle had
been targeted. AND, we parked beside the security hut to try and be safe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On the way out of town
we visited the Tobruk War Cemetery. This is the main Australian cemetery. It is
always sobering to visit a war cemetery and reflect on the sacrifices made and
the grief and sorrow of those left behind. Whilst the cemetery is in quite good
nick, it was in need of some gardening and there was litter around.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to the
Libyan border. Immigration was competed in less than 60 secs. Getting the
Carnet stamped took 60 min! This is probably because they had not seen one
before and did not have the stamp at the outgoing border post.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Libya
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Libyans we met were
friendly and super generous. They invariably went out of their way to assist us
in any way. That said, they are the world’s worst drivers, total maniacs. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did not feel there
were any security issues and we always felt safe. However, we stayed in hotels
or secure areas at night and did not wander after dark. This added to the cost.
It would have been possible to camp in a number of places, if we had have been
assured of the security situation. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Folks in Tunisia had
been concerned about the availability of fresh food in Libya, so we had stocked
up in advance. This was not needed. There were excellent fruit & veg
markets across Libya.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We saw the main tourist sites
in the north in the time we had. However, if the reported security situation
was not so bad, we would have probably spent a few days more. There are some
wonderful beaches and coast. The security situation prevented a trip to the
desert in the south. The roads on the route we took were in good condition. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We obtained business
visas at Tunis with the assistance of Jill at contact@libyatravelandtours.com.
There was a mix up with fax/reference numbers for Avril’s visa. That took a
couple of days to sort out. With the correct reference number, it is a straight
forward process and takes 1 – 2 hours. Note, the application form needs to be
completed in Arabic.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Libya seems to have a
proper functioning economy, with civic works underway, clean and well presented
shops (including diet coke and beer in some places). Apart from the destroyed
armoured vehicles and tanks beside the road, there is little in any evidence of
the conflict. After the drivers, litter is a huge problem.<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-83057631883227281012012-10-15T23:13:00.001-07:002012-10-15T23:13:29.657-07:00Tunisia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 9/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Crossing into Tunisia
took a bit of time. We managed to get our visa on entry, but did not realise
until later they had only given us 7 days. We had to explain about the carnet
to the Tunisia customs people, but they were OK with it and after a bit of time
stamped us in. We had to pay €20 for 8 days car insurance.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then, the real delay
started. A film crew was on site to film the customs entrance process and we
could not proceed until they had finished. The poor folks in the 2 vehicles in
front of us got a real working over; 100% inspection. Fortunately the customs
chap who had assisted us got us through without too much fuss.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The pleasant drive
continued, though we noticed almost immediately that the road condition was not
as good as Algeria and that the volume of rubbish was much greater, which is a
pity. It was not like that in the past.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove through to
Bizerte where we had booked a hotel room for the night. We then made a side
trip to Cape Blanc, the most northerly point in Africa. We have been to the
most southerly point, Cape Agullus, some time ago. When we were in the west we
did not think of this, so will not be able to complete the east – west.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; N 37<sup>0</sup>
17’ 42.9’’ E 009<sup>0</sup> 52’ 18.7’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 10/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We got up early to try
and get to the Libyan embassy in Tunis early. Unfortunately there were bridge
works on the way out of Bizerte, with only one lane operating. So we were
delayed ~ 20 min. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On the way into Tunis we
got stuck in a major traffic situation. There is probably too much traffic for
the road system; however the situation does not seem to be helped by the
driving habits of the local folks. In order to maintain optionality, drivers
try to occupy as many lanes as possible. To a large degree this is done by
sitting in on a lane marker. To counter this, other people form additional
lanes. So, if the “freeway” has 3 lanes they will try and make 5 lanes,
squeezing in between other vehicles. Then, there are the lane changers, like
flies trying to move in and out of any space, or perceived space in order to
get one car further advanced. Then, Avril’s biggest hate; those who use an exit
lane or such to get to the front of a line and then make their way into the
traffic flow. The police assist the traffic confusion/congestion by ignoring
the engineered traffic signals and deciding to direct against red lights etc.
The police do not seem to have much of an impact, as drivers will turn against
their hand signals and just wave as they break the law.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">With some sense of irony
or maybe just plain sarcasm, the GPS asked; “do you want to swap to pedestrian
mode”. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We managed to get to the
Libyan embassy. Unlike in previous times we have visited Tunis, there is a lot
of army around the streets in Tunis. We asked the soldiers in front of the
British Council if we could park there and they let us – which was very helpful.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Access to the Libyan
embassy is via 3 steps to a barred window. In front of the steps there was a
reasonably large crowd, and in African style, queuing is not a natural
instinct. However, Avril soon had them sorted out. When we got to the window -
it turned out that Ray’s visa was waiting, but not Avril’s. Bugger. So, after
some liaison with the folks in Tripoli who organised the visas (US$400 per
person plus 45 dinars each!!), we decided to get Ray’s and they would work on
Avril’s overnight. More queuing to get to ask for Ray’s visa. Then it took some
time to get the folks in the embassy to understand that we only wanted Ray’s
visa. After completing the form in English and handing it in, we were told it
had to be in Arabic! A helpful chap,
also queuing, completed the form in Arabic for us. Then, we queued again to
hand the form in. Finally + 4 hours later, much of it in the sun, Ray had his
visa. In addition we had made some new friends and Avril had at least got some
African people to understand that when western people are about, queuing should
be practiced!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We
the managed to find our way to the Kasbah to meet up with Steve (our nephew)
and his family. Virginie is undertaking research in Tunis for her PhD. We had a
nice lunch and went to have a look at where they are staying. They have 2
children – Nina (5) and Eliot (7 months) who are both very cute and
well-behaved ( their parents and grandparents will be reading this!!). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then
we found our way to Sidi Bou Said. Mike & Caroline Rees (head of the local
BG operations) had kindly asked us to stay. They have a marvellous house with
pool etc. We had a very pleasant evening chatting over a delicious dinner and a
few beers. Thanks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; N 36<sup>0</sup>
52’ 12.4’’ E 010<sup>0</sup> 20’ 74.7’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 11/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a good sleep in
and practising patience, we got word from the agency in Tripoli that Avril’s
visa should be available at the Libyan Embassy. Apparently the Tripoli agency
had sent us an incorrect reference/fax number. So, we quickly grabbed a taxi
and arranged for Steve (nephew) to join us there and translate our visa
application into Arabic. Unfortunately we got there a tad late. The folks at
the window were very apologetic, but the visa section closed an hour earlier
this day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We went back to Steve’s
place for a bit to eat and then a visit to a shopping centre with his family
and also to buy Nina a belated birthday present. It is always wonderful to
spend time with family. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 12/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We got an early lift
into the city with Mike (who is always early to work!) and then on to the embassy.
We wanted to be 1<sup>st</sup> in line to avoid queuing and hence miss the time
bell again - we managed to achieve that
KPI. Again, the folks in the window were helpful. When it looked like the visa
section could not find Avril’s fax, the chap from the window grabbed her
passport and went upstairs to search for it himself. The fax was there and some
comparatively short time later we had Avril’s visa. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We offered the window
man some cash as a thankyou, but he rejected this. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then spent the rest
of the day catching up on chores, emails etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 – 13/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> A very lazy day. We caught up with Steve,
Virginie, Nina & Eliot for the afternoon. In the evening we went to a very
nice restaurant with Mike & Caroline and their “other” guests, Fiona and
Ben. With the menu, wine list and
fashions, you would not have thought we were in a Muslim country. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 6 – 14/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Mike got up to make us
breakfast and then we were on our way. He had kindly arranged for us to stay at
the BG village near Sfax. We were lucky to catch up with Paul Bartlett, a work
colleague of Ray’s from days past.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove into Sfax for a
quick look see, actually to find the Carrefour supermarket. The fruit & veg
were not the best! We then had dinner (and a few beers) with Paul and some of
his workmates in the dining-room, while watching English soccer and rugby!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 449 km; 5
hrs; N 34<sup>0</sup> 40’ 49.8’’ E 010<sup>0</sup> 38’ 52.2’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 7– 15/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We got up very early and
made the border in ~ 5 hours; 315 km. The road post Sfax is tar, but has seen
better days.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ben Guerdane, the town
nearest the border has a real wild west feel. Black- market fuel is openly on
sale (from Libya where is costs $ 0.10/<i>l</i>),
there were people on the road waving wads of money (we changed the last of our
Tunisia Dinars and some UK £), the stalls along the road had a very temporary
look about them etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The exit from Tunisia
was completed without any real delay. Customs wanted to know about our
declaration for camera, computer, but we were not required to fill one in on
entry. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Tunisia
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were very fortunate
to stay with Mike and Caroline, many thanks. It was also great to catch up with
family.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We had travelled around
Tunisia in the past, so really did not feel the need to revisit sights etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Chatting to folks seemed
to reveal that the revolution is still a work in progress. We were disappointed
to see the level of litter - this is a downward step for the country. Still,
Tunisia remains a very low hassle country and super easy to travel around.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-71734070882129828922012-10-09T10:51:00.001-07:002012-10-09T10:51:19.569-07:00Algeria<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 28/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a very smooth
Mediterranean crossing we arrived in Oran either on time at 07:00 or 1 hour
later at 08:00. We were thoroughly confused by the time zone and much to Avril’s
chagrin, got up an hour early. Turns out it is the same as UK summer time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Algerian immigration was
completed very quickly at the vehicle on the docks. One of the Immigration
officials took us into his care and got everything done poste haste. Customs
took a bit longer. We may well have been the 1<sup>st</sup> Australian
registered vehicle to enter Algeria/Oran in a long time. Also, they normally
deal with the French style “<i>Carte Griese</i>”
(?). We have a Carnet de Passage and this took some time to work through the
various officials. The good news is that everyone was trying to be helpful and
they were all friendly: apologising for the delay as they got the paperwork in
order. All in all the whole process was less than 2 hours, so well below our
longest wait.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Given all the security
and other warnings about Algeria, we decided to be very cautious and organised
a guide to accompany us all the way. Our guide, Safia was in the customs hall
ensuring that there were no problems. We then checked into the Sheraton hotel (points!)
and set out on a city tour. The views from the mountain overlooking the city
were spectacular. We saw the main civil and religious buildings and passed by
the WWII Operation Torch landing areas. We had delicious paella for lunch – the
chef said it was due to the fresh fish. This area had been occupied by Spain
for some time a few hundred years ago and they have kept the paella tradition
alive. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the departure hall at
Alicante, Ray had been chatting to an Algerian chap, who then assisted us in
filling in the paperwork and chatting to immigration in Oran etc. Kadia was a
resistance fighter during the fight for independence and proudly showed us a
newspaper article written about him. He invited us to his home for tea and we
were delighted to go there in the afternoon. His daughter had prepared some
lovely sweets to go with tea. Interestingly his son- in-law is the instructor
for the pilot instructors in the Algerian airforce. But his passion is to
somehow organise a team of pilots and planes to fight major bush fires around
the globe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Sheraton Hotel: N 49<sup>0</sup>
52’ 55.2’’ E 004<sup>0</sup> 46’ 32.1’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 29/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a casual start to
the day we headed to Tipasa. We elected to take the coastal route and it was a
great decision. We had a very good drive along some amazing coastal scenery.
The road hugs the coast and we were fortunate with the weather and had a
brilliant, deep azure/turquoise Mediterranean Sea on our left all the way. The
mountains come to the sea in the latter part of the drive and the road is very
reminiscent of the Great Ocean Road (without the 12 Apostles) but much longer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There were many security
checks along the way, but we were only stopped twice. And, the officer
apologised for delaying us – very courteous. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Saturday seemed to be
wedding day. We passed or were intermingled with a number of weddings along the
way. The public part of the event consisted of a convoy of cars, the lead car
elaborately decorated. Follow-on cars make as much noise as possible and delay
any through traffic!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Did we mention, diesel is
~ A$ 0.15/<i>l</i>. Dinner was some lovely,
fresh, BBQ fish. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 354 km; 9
hrs; Hotel Torquoise (€ 50 and was pleasant and clean). N 36<sup>0</sup> 35’ 33.2’’
E 002<sup>0</sup> 27’ 01.8’’. Today marked our last day of the trip in the
west. From now on we should be east of Greenwich. <b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 30/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the morning we had a
look at the Tipasa Roman ruins. They are well sited on the coast. There is
still a lot of excavation to be carried out. Entrance was only $ 0.40, so it is
hard to see how they can maintain the site. We drove along the coast, visiting
the tomb of Juba II & Cleopatra (daughter of Mark Anthony & Cleopatra I) on the way to Algiers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We booked into the
Sheraton (points again) and went into central Algiers and looked at the
Kasbah. In the past this was partially
destroyed by the French and what is left has not yet been renovated. A couple
of palaces/riads have been restored and they are quite stunning.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On the way back to the
hotel, we stopped at the catholic Basilica which has recently been renovated.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 62 km; 2
hrs; N 36<sup>0</sup> 45’ 45.2’’ E 002<sup>0</sup> 52’ 30.7’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 1/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our guide got stuck in
the terrible traffic, so we go a latish start. Algiers seems to have a
reasonable freeway system, but now, it seems that the volume of traffic in peak
times is way too much. We stopped off for breakfast at a fuel station and the
kind folks changed the TV station to English. Again, very courteous.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We headed out of Algiers
on a newish, well designed and built 6- lane freeway. This took us through a
fertile valley that appeared to be a fold in the Altas Mountains, to Bouria. We
then headed south over the mountain foothills, through a wheat-growing area and
into an arid region. Our objective for the day was Bou Saada. Along the way we
made a detour to visit Beni Hamaad, the site of the capital of a 10<sup>th</sup>
century dynasty capital city. Unfortunately all that remains today is some
columns and the minaret of the mosque (apparently the Moors and Marrakech based
their minarets on this one).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Overnight was at Hotel
Kerdada (€ 41)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 433 km; 8 hrs;
N 35<sup>0</sup> 12’ 39.8’’ E 004<sup>0</sup> 11’ 01.8’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 – 2/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the morning we were
greeted by a number of policemen. As
events transpired, we travelled in convoy (just for us) and had a police escort
all day. It was well organised and when we exited a district, the new district
police were waiting for us.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the morning, we had a
quick tour of Bou Saada including the Ferrero mills (unfortunately there is
very little remaining) and the museum of the French artist Nasreddine Dinet (he
was based in this town). We left town with sirens wailing and the road cleared
for us.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On the way to Ghardaia
we visited the Zaouia El Hamel. Apparently over 70% of Algeria’s clerics are
trained at this mosque/college. They can get students to memorise the Koran in
less than 9 months!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We also visited the
Zaccar Neolithic (?) rock art site.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived in Ghardaia
late in the day and in need of a bit of rest. We stayed at a traditional house,
the “Hotel” Enteg (€ 30)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 447 km; 12.5
hrs; N 32<sup>0</sup> 27’ 39.8’’ E 003<sup>0</sup> 41’ 11.0’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 6 – 3/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We spent the day in the
M’Zat valley. The community there is based on 5 walled/fortified towns. We
visited the oldest, El Ateuf. The towns are built on hills, with the mosque at
the highest point and the rest of the complex cascading downhill from there.
The effect is rather like a mini Kasbah/Medina, with houses built together in a
complex set of streets. In order to preserve privacy, one door in not allowed
to be opposite another door. To all accounts they have preserved their
traditional social structure with the elders making decisions etc. In addition,
through a system of giving, the poor are looked after by the community. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The folks here are
renowned for being very conservative. The women wear white; a flowing under
dress and a long head scarf/veil that extend to ~ their knees. They close the
front of the head dress. Married women only show one eye through a small
triangle in the scarf. The unmarried women can show all their face. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The blokes wear pants
like the Thai fishermen pants, but with pleats.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the afternoon we
visited the irrigation/water distribution system which is based on a system of
tunnels. One’s water allocation is based on the number of date trees in one’s garden.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 7 – 4/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again we had a police
escort the whole way. And, again, the changes between police areas were
basically seamless. We spent the day driving to El Oued via Ouargla and Touggourt.
The drive is through typically Saharan landscape. Initially we drove through a
windswept stony plain. South of El Oued the landscape changed to an erg, but
without big dunes. There are a couple of impressive dune sets outside El Oued.
Unfortunately a local business has decided to commercialise the area and “beautify”
the dunes by adding statues of gazelles on the dune tops. But really, the
scenery was not spectacular; rather we got a small idea of the vast,
immenseness of the Sahara.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We attempted to have a
picnic with our police escort outside Ouargla, near a palm grove. Unfortunately
the flies were in plague proportions. Apparently this is due to the dates being
ready to harvest. We have noticed since we left the north that the flies have
been very bad. Anyway, the picnic was not all that pleasant and we will think
of this when complaining about Australian flies in the future.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At El Oud we visited the
Zouaia Tidjania. Algeria has started to collect and catalogue its old Koranic
books and they are stored here. The dome of the mosque is UNESCO listed, more
for its double skin construction than the painting . We spent some time in the
mosque listening to some very restful chanting of Koran verses. The school has
an academic bent and is trying to ensure a moderate version of Islam is
propagated and that non-Muslims understand the non-violent and non-discriminatory
nature of Islam.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The temperature, even as
the northern hemisphere goes into autumn was hot. It peaked in the high 30s.
The fridge in the cab comes in particularly useful at time such as these. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our hotel, Hotel Souf (€
40) was interesting. It was built in the socialist style and you could
recognise the same design as in Vietnam. More interesting though, were the
young ladies in very revealing modern dress. MMmmm. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 477 km; 4
hrs; N 33<sup>0</sup> 21’ 36.9’’ E 006<sup>0</sup> 51’ 44.4’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 8 – 5/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We started the day visiting
one of the palmeries in El Oued. With our police escort we get to run all the
red lights and take priority through roundabouts and road blocks! We then drove
to Batna. Initially the road is in the desert and at Mendi, along the way,
there are salt lakes. The salt is mined and apparently the lakes get and retain
sufficient water in winter to act as a stop on the bird migration route from
Europe. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stopped off at a
petrol station for a convenience break and Ray went to the cafeteria to get a
baguette. The folks there would not accept money for the bread, quite generous.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">With the consent of our
escort we drove through the middle of the Massif de L’Aures, instead of taking
the main road. The route is green on the Michelin map and worth the acclamation.
The scenery was superb, with a broad valley cut in the middle by a deep gorge.
This was most spectacular at Rhoufi. The gorge has sheer sides here, the bottom
is covered with palms and half way up the cliff face there are deserted houses.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived early at
Batna. Our guide was quite sick so after we checked into the Hotel Hazem (€ 71,
including dinner) we went for a walk around the local area. Icecream for Avril
and some fruit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 383 km; 7
hrs; N 35<sup>0</sup> 33’ 22.9’’ E 006<sup>0</sup> 10’ 44.0’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 9 – 6/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A Roman day. Again our
police escort was on time and at 08:00 we set off for the Timgad ruins. On the
outskirts of Batna you pass by the ruins of Lambaesis, the Roman military camp.
Timgad is an extensive site. It has all the typical characteristics of a Roman
town, however not many of the great structures have survived. Ray found the
“sweet spot” in the theatre (not hard as it was marked) and we found the
“advertising” on the market stalls interesting (the 1<sup>st</sup> time we have
seen this?).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Next we drove to the
Royal Mausoleum of the (a) Numidian: Medracen. This massive structure, a
cylinder surmounted by a cone, was the model for Cleopatra & Juba’s tomb
near Tipassa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our final stop for the
day were the impressive Roman ruins at Djemila. Though smaller than Timgad, a
lot more of the site is intact and includes a long road colonnade, temple,
baths, victory gate etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The museum on the site
has an incredible collection of mosaics. Our resident mosaic critic/connoisseur
(Avril), thinks they may be better than those in the Bardot Museum in Tunisia,
the benchmark up to this point. But she will double check when we visit Tunis
in a few days! We were again surprised at the very low level of the entry fee,
$ 0.40, to get into the sites.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The scenery along the
way made the drive very interesting. We travelled along/through large hills,
with some long vistas from the high points. This area has been known for its
wheat since Roman times and the farmers were out busily preparing for their
winter crops. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We finally drove to the
very busy town of Setif. The original hotel that had been booked did not have
secure parking, so our guide decided to change to one that did. With our police
escort, it was a simple matter to get there! Hotel Hidhab (€ 55. The most
expensive hotel so far and a little worse for wear and a bit dirty). We walked
into town for a nice dinner at a kebab café.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 285 km; 4
hrs; N 36<sup>0</sup> 11’ 37.1’’ E 005<sup>0</sup> 24’ 31.8’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 10 – 7/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Museums. We began the
day with a walk to the Setif Museum. The main attraction is the mosaic of the
legend of Bacchus. Suffice to say, our resident mosaic critic/connoisseur says
this is the best she has seen. It is truly extraordinary, with very small
pieces and the different colours and shades making it more like a painting.
There was an interesting collection of Roman artefacts. The resident manager
showed us around and a couple of students, keen to practice their English,
assisted.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then took the freeway
to Constantine, the 3<sup>rd</sup> largest city in Algeria. The river Rhumel
makes a very deep gash through the hills here and in the past the city has made
use of this in its defence. The deep chasm means the city relies on bridges and
we saw most of them; from the remains of the Roman bridge (built on older constructions)
to the modern French- built. We visited the spectacular Emir Abelkader Mosque,
opened in 1992 and then the local museum, which again had an enviable
collection of Roman artefacts.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our local police escort
did well to guide us through the complex local streets and Avril did a
marvellous job not hitting anything in the ancient, narrow streets. To thank
the police, we had a bite of lunch with them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">We then drove to</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Annaba, on the sea. The El Mouna Hotel (€ 40)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 286 km; 9
hrs; N 36<sup>0</sup> 55’ 10.4’’ E 007<sup>0</sup> 45’ 49.3’’<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 11 – 8/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A restful day. We
visited the local museum, with the now familiar mosaics and collection of Roman
remains and the adjacent ruins of Hippo Regis. The “highlight” here is St
Augustine’s Basilica. St Augustine was a local lad who learnt his philosophy
and theology here before becoming a preacher and proceeding to higher things in
Rome. We went for a drive through the hills surrounding Annaba, with great
views of the cost and surrounding area. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then had a lazy
afternoon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 12 – 9/10/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We set off at 08:00 with
our police escort for the Tunisian border. Again, the drive along the north
highway was very pleasant, with hills and some fantastic seascapes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We reached the border
after 2 hours and crossed into Tunisia with a minimum of fuss.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Algeria
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We found the Algerians
to be unfailingly courteous, considerate and generous. Quite often people would
shout a greeting as we drove through towns etc. There also seems to be a good
smattering of English spoken throughout the country. The police would always
try to chat and folks in the street, shops etc would have a quick natter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After pleasantries are
exchanged and we have a bit of a chat, talk would often turns to the
West’s view of Islam. Overwhelmingly there is a sense of frustration (definitely
not anger) at what they perceive is the West’s (unfortunately, read USA) inability to understand what they believe is
the true nature of Islam. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As mentioned, we decided
to take a local guide. This seems to be essential i.e. independent overland travel (with your
own vehicle) would be difficult without a guide. Our route needed to be
communicated with the police and where deemed appropriate, by the police, an
escort was arranged. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Currently there are no
campgrounds in Algeria so we were “forced” to stay in hotels. If we had have
asked or planned in advance, it may have been possible to camp in the grounds
of one or two of the hotels. Given the police escort and the reported security
situation, bush camping does not seem to be an option in the areas we travelled
to. All this meant that Algeria is an expensive place for Overlanders. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At no point did we feel
threatened or was there a security or safety issue. This could have been due to
the police escort, but we did not feel any issues when walking around cities at
night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A big thanks to the Algerian
police. Travelling in convoy could have been tedious and painful. However, the
police were super helpful and flexible, adjusting their arrangements to suit
any change in our plans. We never had to wait for them to arrive at a change-over
point etc. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The roads generally are in good condition, however there is a large
volume of traffic which can make going slow. Also, Algeria must take 1<sup>st</sup>
prize for the number of traffic bumps. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The big negative, as
with the rest of Africa, is the rubbish left everywhere. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">We hope to return and
visit the desert areas in the south of Algeria. These are still considered too
risky for independent overlander travel</span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-35984838583225666692012-09-28T11:53:00.002-07:002012-09-28T11:53:53.553-07:00Back to Africa<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Following our sad trip
back to Australia, we returned to the UK on 21<sup>st</sup> September. Steve
Marshall made the heroic deed and got up in the wee small hours to collect us
from the airport.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We tried to get over the
jet lag for a couple of days in the UK and did some maintenance on the vehicle.
The battery was flat and we could not jump start off our spare battery. Turned
out the jumper leads were not performing. We eventually got the vehicle running
and used the alternator to charge the battery. We also put it onto a battery
charger overnight.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Unfortunately all this
did not work and we did not bother to check. The vehicle would not start as we
went to leave for the ferry on Sunday night. Steve to the rescue: he did a
quick soldering job on the jumper leads and we were on our way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We elected to take an
overnight ferry to Le Havre (Sunday 23<sup>rd</sup>) to try and make use of night
time. Fortunately we were on HD Lines. Brittany ferries were on strike – the Euro
crisis clearly has not increased peoples’ desire for work. We left the UK in
the middle of a fierce storm (apparently this was the worst September storm for
30 years). Gale force winds had been forecast, but fortunately they did not
eventuate or the ferry stabilisers were working overtime. We slept all the way
and were rudely awakened by the vessel’s PA telling us we were already meant to
be out of the cabin.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Despite leaving late,
the ferry arrived on time. However, due to the loading sequence, we were the
last off the ferry. Still we had time
for breakfast.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We looked unsuccessfully
for a new battery at the Le Havre Toyota. They kindly organised one to be
available in Bordeaux, so we headed down there. It was a long drive in pretty
terrible conditions with heavy rain and strong winds the whole way. The good
news was that we managed to work out how to use the tollway credit card
machines and we got the new battery fitted the same day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">With the rain, we
decided to take a cabin at the Village de Lac where we had previously camped.
We are happy to report a quiet night – no gypsies and no need for the police
this time!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We headed out of
Bordeaux on 25<sup>th</sup> in pouring rain and managed to get caught in a mega
traffic jam and it took us ~ 2 hours to be completely free of the heavy
traffic. Rather than take the recommended freeway route, decided to go via the
Pyrenees Alpine NP. A great decision. The scenery was absolutely stunning. Too
bad we were on a schedule as we would have stayed a bit longer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The vehicle had started
to make some “clunking” noises when hot and on cornering. When we got to Zaragoza we tried to see the
Toyota people. However, we discovered that street names in Spain have multiple
forms and landed up in a lower socio economic residential district (was that PC
enough?). So, we decided to give up on the vehicle and look for the camping
ground. Again, the street names got us disoriented. We ended up in a nice
residential area. A very friendly man saw we were totally lost and though he
had no English (and of course, we have zero Spanish) he went out of his way to
get us at least headed in the correct direction. After a further hour or so and
calls to the camp ground, we finally found the camp. Whew! Some other Aussies
from Qld were checking in and had also had the same problem finding the camp
ground. So, it was not just us.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Zaragoza Municipal
campground: N 41<sup>0</sup> 38’ 26.1’’ W000<sup>0</sup> 56’ 42.6’’ <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We set off very early to
the Valencia Toyota garage, again in rain. The service chief there took the
vehicle out for a long run, but of course there was no noise. So, we headed off
to Alicante. As we hit town the noise started again. Thanks to home office, we
had the Toyota address in Alicante, so we went directly there. But, it was
siesta time! So, we headed off into town to try and find about campgrounds in
the area. The Tourist Office was closed for siesta. We approached a policeman to
ask directions and he made some calls via his 2 way radio and gave us some
general information. After asking some other folks along the way, we managed to
find the camp ground. But, of course the office was closed for siesta. As we
drove back to town, we found another campground, with an open office so marked
that place. It has to be said that we found the Alicante road system really
confusing, we got lost multiple times and even the normally reliable GPS found
it hard.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We returned to Toyota
after siesta and they took the vehicle out for a long run. They said it seemed
to be an issue with the hand brake. Both Valencia and Alicante said it was not
“dangerous” and importantly there were no issues with the drive
train/differential. However, it was now too late for them to look at the
brakes, so we returned to the open campground for an excellent night’s sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Jardin Campground; N 38
23.584 W 000 24.911<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Thursday 27<sup>th</sup>;
another early start to be at Toyota by 08:00. The good folks there removed the
rear tyres, brakes etc and reset everything. Then only charged us for 1 hour
labour. Very kind.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We were instructed to be
at the ferry terminal 3 hours before departure i.e. at 16:00. With the rain
pelting down we went a bit early. The counters opened at 17:00 and there was a
general mad rush to get the boarding pass. Back to Africa. It has to be said
that the women were ruthless at this and had no qualms about pushing and
shoving their way to the front. Ray eventually got the paperwork done whilst
Avril looked after the vehicle i.e. rested in the driver’s seat and watched all
the activities going on at the terminal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After boarding, Avril
watched the Algerian merchants bringing their goods on board. This was done
manually and they made many trips from shore to vessel with big loads. Hard
yakka.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">So, on board a Greek
ferry we departed at 22:00 with promises we would arrive on time (versus
scheduled departure at 19:00) from Spain to Algeria.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-56914854335180408822012-09-21T08:35:00.001-07:002012-09-21T08:35:39.956-07:00Morocco, Part 4 and some very sad news<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 25 – 26/8/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A very exciting day for
us – Gabrielle arrived from Australia to join us for a holiday in Morocco. She
flew in early and we went back to Steve’s for a bit then Gabrielle and Ray flew
to Marrakech for a bit of “serious” trekking. Arrival temperature was 41<sup>o</sup>C!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril elected to stay in
Marlow, visiting old friends and playing some badminton and missing the hard
work.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stayed at Riad Bel
Baraka <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 26 – 27/8/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Gabrielle and Ray were
picked up at the Riad by their guide, Hassan and then drove via taxi to Imi
Oghlad to commence the trek. At Imi Oghlad we picked up Hamid the muleteer and
chef.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The 1<sup>st</sup> day’s
trekking was an easy walk along the Azzaden valley to Tinzert. We trekked until
~ 12:00 and Hamid prepared a delicious lunch of salad and a lentil tagine. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Dinner was soup, salad
and a meat tagine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The guest house this day
was very basic, but clean. The hardest part for us westerners was the “squat”
dunny.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">So, we will not comment
further on the scenery. All along the way there were stunning views with
fantastic vistas along the valleys and to the mountain peaks on either side.
The lower levels of the valleys had Berber villages. Here they have terraced
the valley walls for intensive agriculture.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 27 – 28/8/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A leisurely start to the
day. We trekked again along the Azzaden valley to Tizi Oussem.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A nice slow introduction
to the harder trekking to follow. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again we stayed in a
clean but basic guest house. This guest house had hot water in the showers (for
an additional price) but still the “squat” dunnys. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 28 – 29/8/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">An earlier start to the
day, we commenced trekking at ~ 06:30. We trekked up the Aguelzim Pass at 3,650
m. Along the way we passed the Tamsoult waterfalls. Apparently the zig-zag route
in the last part of the ascent to the pass has 99 zig-zags. Apparently! We were
panting too much to count. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Heroes that we were? At
the top of the pass there were a couple of goat herders tending their stock and
also selling soft drinks they had carried from the village of Tizi Oussem. We
bought a few drinks as we were so impressed with the enterprise. Lunch was a
simple picnic as the mule, with the chef and supplies, took an easier path than
us! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived in Toubkal Refuge
(mountain hut) at ~ 17:00, 3, 207 m. A long day’s trekking.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We elected to camp in a
tent rather than share a dormitory with 18 other people in 3-level bunk beds.
There were hot showers and the joy of western toilets.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 29 – 30/8/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again a very early start
to the day; we were on the mountain by 06:00, walking with our head torches.
The ascent up Mt Toubkal was strenuous, but both Gabrielle and Ray made it
without too much stress. It has to be said Gabrielle a lot faster than Ray –
but she had the courtesy to wait for Ray and they ascended the final 20 m
together. At 4,167 m Mt Toubkal is the highest mountain in Morocco & North
Africa. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After the ascent, the trek
down the Toubkal valley to Imlil (the guest house of the tour company owner was
at 1,800 m) was long and we arrived at ~ 17:00. After 11 hours (3 up and 7
down,1 for lunch) trekking, both Gabrielle and Ray were a little sore, but a
touch proud to have made the assent..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At 19:00, Avril arrived
at the guest house, wet from a rain storm, after flying into Marrakech from Gatwick.
She had a steep (100 m rise) trek to the guest house.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 30 – 31/8/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After the previous day’s
effort, Gabrielle and Ray were appreciative of the late (09:00) start to the
day. To cater for Avril’s luggage, we needed to employ another mule and driver!
We all trekked up to Tamatert Pass, at 2, 200 m altitude, a “simple” ascent for
some! Then along the Tacheddirt valley to Tacheddirt village and the wonderful
Tacheddirt guest house 2,300m.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 31 – 1/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A relatively easy day
trekking over the Tizi N’ouddi pass (2,860 m) and along the Oukaimden valley.
We elected to trek along the dirt road rather than the short but more difficult
mule track. Nomads had made their annual trek to the high pastures and the
valley was “full” of livestock, mainly goats and sheep. The nomads live in very
basic/rough huts and it seems they have quite a tough life.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived at the ski
resort of Oukaimden (2,500 m) early in the afternoon. Our original
accommodation was not up to scratch, so after some discussion we shifted to the
very nice French Alpine club chalet. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 32 – 2/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We trekked over the Tizi
N’oukaimden pass (2,680 m) along the Tacheddirt valley to the Amsker village.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Unfortunately there was
an all-night party at a house very close to the guest house, so we did not get
a very good night’s sleep! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 33 – 3/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a very short trek
(~ 3 hours) we finished the trek where Gabrielle and Ray started at Imi Oghlad.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove back to our
comfortable riad in Marrakech and enjoyed a hot shower etc. Then we hit the
markets for some shopping and snacking. The bazaar is colourful and the
Moroccan store holders ensure a great “shopping experience”. The negotiations
are carried out with great humour and good spirit and the store holders go out
of their way to ensure you are happy with the end result. Best of all, if you
say “no”, they take this in good spirit and do not continue to hassle you. We
probably bought a bit more than we intended to, but enjoyed ourselves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the evening we went
to the main square for the famous dining event. Lots of small stores set up
with fresh produce which is cooked on the spot. We elected to have a seafood
entrée, then walked around for a bit and went back the same store for a seafood
main course. No room for dessert. Most of the stores have spruikers to
encourage you to eat at their store. Again the good humour and no-hassle
approach is fantastic. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 34 – 4/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We made a very early
start to the day to allow for the very long drive. Our plan to make a very
early start was frustrated by the time it took to finalise the hire car
arrangements and actually get on the road. We managed to exit Marrakech without
getting lost and drove to the Ouzoud Falls. The falls are a big local
attraction and there were plenty of places to eat, accommodation, boating
activities at the bottom of the falls etc. the falls are probably not an
international attraction, but a good diversion. We had lunch at one of the
restaurants overlooking the falls.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then had a very long
drive to Fez. Apparently there is a very high death/casualty rate on Moroccan
roads and to counter this, they have reduced the speed limits to quite low
levels. And, as Ray discovered, the advisory speed limits on corners are
legally enforceable – and if you break them a fine follows!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The drive crossing the
Atlas Mountains was spectacular. Unfortunately we had probably set our
destination for the day a bit far and we did not really fully appreciate the
views. We arrived in Fez after dark. Avril was navigating using the carlight to
read a map, when a fellow on a motor bike beside us asked if we needed help.
Yep, we did! So, he went out of his way to take us to near the old medina and
arranged for a friend to take us to a convenient spot near our accommodation.
Yet again, the generosity of local folks was fantastic and humbling. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The manager of the riad
met us at the well-known Blue gate and led us to the riad Dar Hafsa. After a
long drive, we were happy to just collapse.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 35 – 5/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a large breakfast
at the riad (we did manage to convince the owners to only provide food for 2
rather than 3), we spent the day, with a local guide, looking a Fez. This
seemed to consist of looking at some wonderful buildings and visiting a lot of
the artisans (which Fez is famous for).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We did not do a lot of
shopping, but enjoyed the day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 36 – 6/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After heading the wrong
way out of Fez, we managed to get onto the right road and drove to Mouley
Idriss. Non-believers are not allowed to visit the tomb/mausoleum in the town,
but the overall views of the city are impressive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to
Merzouga in the desert in the south of Morocco. We stayed at the Kasbah Erg
Chebbi. Unfortunately they had had terrible storms in the previous days which
had impacted the electrical systems. Worse still, they had recently had a
English group through and they drank ALL the beer. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The Kasbah provided a delicious evening meal
& wine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 37 – 7/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril and Gabrielle got
up early to view the sunrise. Ray slept in. After a hearty breakfast we went on
a quad bike trip. Avril behind the guide and Gabrielle and Ray riding bikes. It
was a great way to visit the spectacular dunes. The Erg Chebbi is the most
visited bit of desert in Morocco and the trip through the dunes showed why.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to Todra
George, where we stopped for a walk. One of the local chaps asked for a lift
back to town and given all the assistance we had been given along the way, we
could not refuse. Interestingly at the end of the drive he offered to pay and
then invited us to his home for tea. Unfortunately we did not have time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We spent the night at Kazbah
Tizzarouine<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 38 – 8/9/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Tragically, very early
in the morning we received news that Ray’s dad had died overnight. This was not
unexpected, but a truly sad occasion for us.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove back to
Marrekech to catch a flight back to the UK. We then flew back to Australia for
the funeral. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-56251068533023914892012-08-23T02:36:00.004-07:002012-08-23T02:36:45.690-07:00Belgium, the UK and Stage 1 Summary<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Belgium<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 1 – 19/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The rain continued as we
drove into Belgium. Our primary purpose in travelling here was to meet David
& Julia, who we had met in CAR and travelled with for a couple of days. </span><a href="http://www.driveagainstmalaria.org/"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="color: blue;">www.driveagainstmalaria.org</span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">. We got to their home just outside
Antwerp in the early afternoon. We chatted, had a few beers etc for the
remainder of the day.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 142 km; 4
hrs; N 49<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 52’ 55.2’’ E 004<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 46’ 32.1’’<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 2 – 20/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Julia prepared a big
brunch and we spent most of the day chatting. We went for a drive to look at a
local chateau (and have a beer) and in the evening celebrated Julia’s birthday
with some of their friends at a local restaurant.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 3 – 21/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After another delicious
brunch, Dave drove us into Antwerp to have a look at the old city. There is a
nice pedestrian area along the river and near the cathedral. We stopped at a
well- known restaurant/bar for a beer (has lots of religious and other statues
inside) – and were treated quite poorly. We heard a number of people
complaining about the service - we ordered food which was not delivered. We had
experienced poor service at the restaurant the night before, so it may be an
Antwerp thing to be off hand with tourists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Still, the main thing was the company and the beer was cold. Eventually
we went to a Thai restaurant (run by Hong Kong folks) for a great feed and
decent service. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 4 – 22/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove to Bruges and
spent a wonderful day with Olivier and Chantal friends from work times. We
began with some snacks at their home and a visit to Olivier’s amazing scooter
collection. We then drove to the centre of Bruges and were treated to the local
delicacy of mussels – delicious! And the service was 1<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">st</span></sup> class. We
then walked around the historic centre of Bruges and ended with a beer/pancake
(you can guess who had what).<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 5 – 23/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a sad farewell to
Dave & Julia (and we will hold them to their promise to visit us in Oz) we
drove to Dunkirk to get the ferry to the UK. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Belgium
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We enjoyed visiting
friends and relaxing in Belgium. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"> </span></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">UK<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">23/7/12<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We arrived safely at
Steve & Ing’s in north London. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 356 km; 8
hrs (including ferry crossing); N 52<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 36’ 54.8’’ W 000<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup>
25’ 09.0’’<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"> </span></o:p></span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">London turned on a fantastic event with the Olympics.
Our son was working here when the Olympic tickets went on sale - we applied for
lots and were lucky enough to get lots. Also, we bought extra tickets from the
official internet site, thanks Marie. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We attended a number of sessions at the London 2012 Olympics. The Brits
absolutely earned Gold for their performance. The main venue was outstanding
and the individual stadiums great. The transport system has held up well with
the record number of passengers – oh that Melbourne could have such service
even at normal times. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The most impressive aspect was the people running the event and the
Londoners everywhere. They were all super friendly and helpful. The event
management was amazing, even with full airport security; we never had to wait
more than a couple of minutes to get into grounds. In general this was run by
the military, who always had a bit of a joke etc – unlike the airport security.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">10/10 to the Brits.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"> </span></o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After the Olympics we took
the opportunity to visit some “old” friends. Unfortunately, time did not permit
us to see everyone we wanted to see. We did have a wonderful time at Kate and Jason’s
wedding! The good news is that we will be back to the UK again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We also set about
preparing for the return trip to Africa. We had the vehicle serviced at
Overland Cruisers, a specialist Overland and Landcruiser garage in
Herefordshire. The good news was that generally the vehicle is in good nick.
They confirmed that the repair done in Morocco is OK and fixed up all the
little items we had let go for a few months. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We stocked up the
vehicle with dry food. However, we think we will not need as many provisions on
the north and east sides of Africa. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Stage One Summary<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Apologies to those who
have seen this before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">With our arrival in London, stage one of our African
odyssey is now over.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Vital <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">statistics</b>
include:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">More than 51,000 km<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">30 countries. We had
initially intended to try and visit every country in Africa, but this took an
early hit. We decided it was too hard to get visas for Equatorial Guinea, there
was nothing really to see there and apparently the authorities are not all that
welcoming to Overlanders. We gave Nigeria a miss as we wanted to drive around
Lake Chad. Also, there were security issues there. There was a coup in Guinea
Bissau just before we were due to go there and they shut the borders. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We left Australia on
the 14<sup>th</sup> August 2011 and went via Singapore to RSA. We arrived in
London on 23<sup>rd</sup> July 2012.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The trip has been totally awesome. We would prefer not
to pick highlights etc, but if forced to, it would be the people – the
friendships, interest in our trip, helping hands and generosity have been
stunning. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This started with our
wonderful relations in Cape Town and Pretoria</span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Continued with our
friends Steve & Ing in Namibia. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Koos & Jose were
total professionals and wonderful leaders of the trip in Angola. Our fellow
travelers there were tremendous and we hope to visit them when we return to
RSA. Many thanks to the police and officials in Angola, who despite their
reputation, proved super helpful. Giving us a visa extension in 3 hrs (and
rejecting our offer of money for all the effort), the police at the Congo
border who assisted us in getting our carnet stamped.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">M. Michael the great
and generous mechanic in DRC/Kinshasa. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Bruno Baert</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">, who provided us advice prior to arrival and a backstop when we had our
accident and Mary at the Protestant mission, a real friend. </span><br />
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In ROC, the folks at
African Safaris & </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Christelle
at Odzala NP. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Tomo Nishihara for helping with advice and directions.
Thomas and the staff at NNNP –seeing the gorillas is a once in a lifetime
experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Peter & his group were
great travelling companions in NNNP. It was the 1<sup>st</sup> time in a while
we had someone other than each other to talk to – so, hopefully their ears
recovered. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We met the
wonderful/fantastic Didier in Gabon and he assisted with advice for the rest of
our trip. Thanks to David and the folks at BHPB. Thanks also to the Director of
the Mayumba NP who sorted out the mess and got us into the NP where we saw the
leatherback turtles nesting - way up there in the wildlife highlights of the
trip. Along the way, the Catholic mission in </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Mouila</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> for letting us stay and the charming young students there. Also to the
people who stopped what they were doing in many towns to show us the way. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Cameroon the WWF
folks (Mark & Bridgette) helped with fellowship and advice. Big thanks to
all the people in Nth Cameroon who assisted with flat tyres, bits falling off
the vehicle and repairs. Big thanks to Fr Patrick who welcomed us into his home
in Batouri and Yaoundé and to Sr Susan and Sr Frieda for food, beer and fellowship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And of course our kids who made a huge effort
to come all the way from Oz for Christmas and New Year. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Tim and Anne and the
crew at the Swedish Baptist Mission (no Swedes and no Baptists!) in CAR who
looked after us royally. In CAR we met David and Julia from
‘driveagainstmalaria’, truly inspirational people. We stayed with them for a
few days in Belgium.</span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Chad was one of the
biggest surprises of the trip and we can thoroughly recommend a trip to Eneddi
Deserti and the fantastic Zakouma NP. Many thanks to Lorna at Zakouma for
guiding us to Chad and settling our fears and to Jean and the staff for looking
after us whilst there. Do yourself a favor and go to Zakouma!! Big thanks to
the Tunisian civil engineers who towed us into Mongo and the Catholic mission.
Denis made sure we had a comfortable bed and looked after us in N’djamena and
provided us with advice along the way. Many thanks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All along the way CFAO (responsible for
Toyota in most of west Africa) assisted. In N’djamena Pierre was super helpful.
He looked after our vehicle whilst we went to Ennedi , the mechanics took
delight in servicing the vehicle etc. They also put us in contact with folks in
Niger (including the Col responsible for security). </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Niger it was
fantastic to be welcomed by Tim & Barbie, who also provided us with
contacts and advice along the way. And to the Col in the Niger army (whose
details went with Rays phone issues!) who contacted us almost daily to ensure
we were OK. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">All the people of
Burkina Faso, a really cheerful lot. In particular the customs official who
sorted out our carnet after we were stopped at the border.. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Our visit to Mali was
constrained due to the security situation in the north. There was a military
coup ~ the week after we left.</span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Benin, the
policeman we paid our one and only bribe to. What a charming fellow who also
paid to have a taxi take us to our accommodation. The policeman in Cotonau who
stopped directing traffic to take us to the French embassy. The Ivory Coast
consulate staff who seemed to fill in the forms for us and may have had to bend
some rules to get us a quick visa.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Togo, the Islamic
teacher, who, through a communication mess up, took us all the way to the Ghana
border (turned out he was going nowhere near there!!). </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Ghana the police
who gave Avril bananas at the border. Thanks to Sunil, Hannah and Kate for
including us in their travel plans. So nice to see friends. Great to meet some
more overlanders: Luke & Shelly and Jan & Marisca. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Ivory Coast, again
Didier. In </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Yamoussoukro</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Charles</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> from the UN who went out of his way to sort out a communication mess
with the Catholic mission and find us alternative accommodation</span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Liberia, many thanks
to the folks at the BHPB compound in Monrovia. Great luxury for a few days and
wonderful to meet such friendly people. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We were not long in
Sierra Leone, but it was relaxing to chat in English to the volunteers camping
at the beach where we stayed. It restores your faith in the future to see the
younger folks out trying to help. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Guinea was a lot
easier than we were led to believe. It has a lot of green on the Michelin map</span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Senegal we were
welcomed by Pierre, Didier’s best mate. Patrice and Picky welcomed us into
their home for 3 days of relaxation.</span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Gambia the chap
from the </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Malik</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">, who worked to get us some a/c accommodation for the night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Jen & Laura</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> from the Horse and Donkey refuge. Wow, all that heat and no fridge!
Thanks for the bed. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The officials (once
you left the south) of Mauritania. They were always helpful and did not insist
on silly registration etc. General people in the street who went out of their
way to show us where things were. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Morocco, well it
is really very similar to Europe. Thanks to Ali, who stopped to give us his business
card and then repaired our vehicle. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Spain – well you know
our thoughts!</span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">France, people
everywhere. Thanks to Pierre and Coco for treating us like kings/queens!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also Nicolas for showing us Champagne. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"> </span></o:p></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Of course the biggest thanks go to The Home Office who
look after all the annoying paper work and administrative drudgery. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">And of course to Peter M - without his efforts, most
of this would have been much more difficult. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"> </span></o:p></span><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Route</span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We are reasonably happy with the route and timing we
took. We seemed to have seen most of the highlights etc. We were a bit worried
about the wet season as we went north and maybe rushed a bit from Ghana to
Senegal.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We maybe should have left RSA/southern Africa a week
or so earlier and missed all the wet season in the Congos. In hindsight, we
spent way too long in southern Cameroon. It would have been better for the kids
to join us in Chad rather than Cameroon (which from a tourist perspective was
disappointing).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We would have had a
better time with the kids and had more time further north. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">It seems from the issues other travelers have had,
south to north is easier from an officialdom perspective than north to south. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The big issue is the lack of reliable information –
guide books are generally hopelessly out of date. Worse still are the maps: German
Reise know-how paper maps, Michelin maps, other French Maps etc. All these maps
are basically useless. On GPS we have T4A and Garmap (Garmin RSA affiliate),
generally these have been OK. When confronted with a conflict between T4A and
Garmap, we tend to believe T4A. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Bribery.<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We did not start out with any plan not to pay bribes,
rather to resist to a sensible point. By our standards we paid one bribe to a
policeman in Benin (we were 100% in the wrong, it was late in the day and we
did not want the hassle of messing around for a few hours). The experience was
so nice; we would do it again – for Avril, just to gaze upon the handsome
officer!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Ray had money grabbed from his hand by the police in
DRC – but this does not count. We had to pay the officer who took our
statements after the crash $ 20, but apparently this is standard practice.
Note: all requests for a bribe start at $ 250 in DRC!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We did give the immigration police in Togo a can of
coke to rush us through. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Normally we would plead ignorance, make them repeat
the request e.g. we could not hear, speak French etc at which point the request
normally fades. Entering Burkina Faso from Mali we sat for 3 hours refusing to
pay a charge until the manager gave way - but, only because they annoyed us. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Best examples: the look on the Cameroon officer’s face
when he said he needed money for food and Ray took him some bread. But even
better, in Senegal, Ray was in the passenger seat talking on the phone. The
police officer stopped us and came to the window and with full indignation said
“ you were talking on the phone”. Ray said” yeah, but look where the steering
wheel is”! Absolute devastation on the officers face. He then tried to say
Avril was speeding, but somehow Ray found a 35 km/hr number on the GPS. We all
knew it was wrong, but what could he say?? BTW, she was speeding!!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"> </span></o:p></span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Health<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We were fortunate to only have one incident of “food
poisoning” during our trip (from a freshly killed goat left out in the sun all
day in Chad). This maybe because we were taking doxycycline for malaria for
much of the trip and being an anti-biotic, a side benefit was that it killed
other nasties.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The water filters held up well and we were fastidious
about drinking water. We also were fortunate to be able to shower most days. We
were probably less fussy about hand washing during the day, but survived
anyway.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Ray did get some vertigo for a while, but hopefully
this has cleared up again.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Accommodation <o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The nightly stops are recorded in our blog. We were
probably a bit more cautious than most other overlanders who prefer to “wild
camp”. Mostly we found places with facilities to shower – from a brothel (?) in
Angola to luxury camping in Marrakech.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>However, we did wild camp quite often and enjoyed the experience<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"> </span></o:p></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Personal
Security:<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We tried to avoid places where white tourists are
targeted, but to use common sense and up to date information. Probably DRC was
our worst experience. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We did not go to:</span><br />
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Nigeria; others have
driven through the north of Nigeria and had no issues</span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Nth Niger. You can go
to Agadez but need a full escort to go to the Air Mountains. We saw no need to
see another desert town but would have loved to have seen the mountains,
however we had tyre issues at this time plus the $$ of course. Next time. </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">the road out of Niger
to Gao (we drove 60% of the way up it), </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Nth Mali including
Timbuktu; </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Guinea Bissau and </span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Sth Senegal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"> </span></o:p></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Theft</span></b><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We had 2 towels stolen when we left them out to dry in
Angola.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Our camera was stolen by a game ranger who we had
allowed to ride in the cab in CAR</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A collapsible shovel and wheel brace was stolen in the
market in N’Djamena </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Don’t mention Spain.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So, not too much. Only the camera with the pictures of
Dzanga Bai hurts. Maybe this was because we had good systems in place and were
careful, or maybe because most folks are fundamentally honest. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">There were a number of occasions when there was
opportunity and nothing went missing and on at least one occasion, a stolen
item was returned. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"> </span></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Vehicle<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
Th<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">e vehicle has held up reasonably well. Though, we
were disappointed when the rear axle housing cracked. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Suspension:
the old man emu suspension has held up very well, particularly with the extra
stress placed on them with the failure of the Firestone air bags. The Firestone
airbags installed by OppositeLock at Mile End in Adelaide failed very early in
the trip. We think this contributed massively to the ongoing brakes and tyre
issues we have had. In Morocco we had to have some serious work done to fix
cracks in the rear axle housing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Tyres
have been an ongoing hassle. Our original BFGoodrich 4x4, LT tyres failed after
a short time in Angola. From then on we could not buy new tyres and the 2<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">nd</span></sup>
hand car tyres were not really to the task (they do not have the wall strength
necessary to support our heavy vehicle). The Dunlop tyres held up very well,
until the steel was showing through the rubber. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Brakes;
we have used 4 sets of rear brake pads. Maybe due to the weight, using brakes
originally designed for 3 tonnes to stop 4 tonnes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">ARB Diff
Lockers; both front and rear. Actually, we hardly used these. Maybe it is our
driving technique, but even when both the front & back are locked, the
power still goes to the end of least resistance and so you still get some wheel
spin. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Diff and
gear box breather extensions seemed to have worked well<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The
vehicle winch. Peter is correct, we have not used it in anger<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Vehicle
electrics: Ctek D250S battery isolator and charger. 2<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">nd</span></sup> (Optima)
battery. Hella driving lights. No issues with any of these.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Kenwood
GPS and general entertainment system, a big disappointment. It is very
temperamental and often disconnects the iPod. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Rear
parking sensors do not like the mist and wet and so give a false reading under
these conditions<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Reversing
camera works well. It has suffered from a loose connection from time to time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Tyredog
tyre monitoring system worked well until recently. One of the sensors started
to massively under read the pressure. Tyredog has said they will send a
replacement & new batteries. Thanks very much. . <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Bonnet
& head light protectors and side window windshields all well worth while.
They have a few chips, but have protected the lights.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Internal
roof console is good, but we installed way too many 12 V cigarette lighter
points. 2 would have been plenty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Seat
covers are essential but are now very dirty<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Window
tinting we should have been darker.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">150 litre
long-range fuel tank is really not needed. The standard 90 + 90 would be plenty
and we met some folks who did most of this trip with just 90 l and no jerry
cans. The trick is to ask around to find the people who have fuel. Often it is
not obvious. The installation of the 150 l tank may have been faulty and caused
the many fuel leaks we had. The mechanics in Guinea where we had the final (we
hope) leak said that the return line was pinched. This may have caused back
pressure and hence the leak<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The
fridge in the front cabin is a real winner. However, it seems to work best when
there are some frozen items in it. Fortunately, we have a freezer in the other
fridge. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">ARB roof
rack is great<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Custom steel tray and
compartment has held up very well. It protected us in the DRC crash and when we
slipped in the mud in Gabon, so that is great. However, it is probably
massively heavy and has contributed to the tyre and suspension issues. The
theft issue has not been as big as we imagined. We could probably cut out a few
100 kgs by reducing this aspect. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The caches
that hold the under tray draw were a weak point and have all failed. We did a
modification on this in Morocco. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Honda
generator has been used in anger for the accommodation (when we had earthing
issues after the DRC crash) but has not been needed for the vehicle, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The water
treatment system worked well. We needed to replace the coarse 1 ɥ filter a
couple of times and the carbon/silver filter once. We also replaced the Seagull
filter in London. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">4 x
underslung tool boxes, we lost one on the DRC crash. The 2 permanently wired
ARB compressors in one of the tool boxes have been OK, but this may not be the
best configuration. The diff lockers squirt oil into the compartment when
engaged and this gives an oily environment. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Trayon
camping unit has overall been good. We have been fortunate that the weather has
only forced us to spend time in the unit on 2 or 3 occasions. We spend most of
the time outside. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Accommodation: Ctek M300 battery charger, 1,000 W
inverter, marine quality circuit breaker panel, 120 amp hr deep cycle battery
have worked well. The only issue was the earthing connection after the DRC
crash. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The additional hold down points we installed have
been successful. The unit has not moved substantially on the tray. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">We have not really used the accommodation unit
sound system (iPod, radio, speakers etc)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Secure compartment with safe has worked <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The canvas has not held up all that well and
remains very hard to pin down when it is wet<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The water storage system is not user friendly at
all. The inlet is way too small and hard to put a hose in. The outlet is
plastic and the design means it needs to be bent every time it is used and so
it fails. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The chemical toilet has yet to be commissioned! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Solar
panels, unfortunately, we seemed to have purchased panels that need direct
sunlight to perform well. We should have researched this a bit better before we
started.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2526369827115197999.post-61558379848234983652012-07-21T23:33:00.005-07:002012-07-21T23:33:52.945-07:00France part 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 12 – 6/7/12<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We wandered through the
region which we discovered includes some of the Dordogne Valley. Our trip took
us through more wonderful scenery and villages. The villages included,
Carrenac, Loubressac, Autoire, Capdenac and Cardaillac which are graded in the
top 150 villages in France. We walked around Figerac, which at > 2,000
people is not considered a village. It was interesting to see all the
businesses shut at 12:00, on the dot. Clearly live-style is more important than
money! We also went via Chateau de Castelnau-Bretenoux, apparently the best
fortified castle in southern France.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The weather was
overcast, but we only had one brief and heavy down-pour in the mid- afternoon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped near
Rocamadour at La Roc. Low price at € 14/night. 3 stars, but on the road and a
bit stark.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 162 km; N 44<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup>
29’ 11.9’’ E 001<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 39’ 16.2’’<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 13 – 7/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">With ideal weather, in
the morning we visited Rocamadour, which apparently gets more visitors than
just about anywhere else in France. The setting is spectacular and it was a
nice place for our brunch. Brunch was at 10:30, at that time only one place in
town was offering food (and only breakfast, nothing more substantial) and a lot
of the shops had not yet opened. We parked at the top of the bluff and walked
down to the bottom village and then back up to the chateaux at the top; on our
feet, not knees – according to the history books, the pilgrims did/do it on
their knees – an incredible feat.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove via
Souillac to Salat; the Foie gras capital of the universe. Oh yeah! We had
afternoon tea in a square near the town hall (yep, foie gras for one and crepes
for the other).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove to
Beynac-et-Cazenac, another medieval village with spectacular setting on a
bluff. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped close to Domme
at Le Perptuum, 3 star (€ 21/night). The holidays had officially started, so
the campground was the busiest we have found on our trip thus far.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At some point in the day
we passed from the Lot region to the Dordogne. Ray reckons his blood specific
gravity must be above 1.00. Given the amount of rich food and animal products
he has consumed since entering France, his blood must now have a high
percentage of lard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 93 km; N
44<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 48’ 51.9’’ E 001<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 13’ 10.7’’<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 14 – 8/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Another day wandering
and visiting beautiful villages. We passed by Domme, La Roque gageac and Beynac
et-Cazenac all of which seem to be in the top 150 villages, assuming we have
read the notices correctly. We visited the exotic church at Perigueux with its
almost Asiatic/eastern spires. The town itself was pretty dead as it was Sunday
afternoon. Apparently Sundays remain very special for the French.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We camped near Brantome at the Camping
Brantome (€ 20/night). The campground was close to the town and we walked into
town and managed to see a bit of Wimbledon, before the rain. The town was
massively crowded as there was a “trash and treasure” market. Looked like 100%
trash – but we may have been wrong.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 288 km; N 44<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup>
21’ 36.3’’ E 001<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 39’ 46.4’’<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 15 – 9/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">An early start to the
day and a reasonably long drive to Cheverny in the Loire valley. Soon after
starting our drive we noticed a chateau/castle in a stunning elevated position.
It was not marked and we did not stop. In any other place this would have been
at least a minor attraction. But, such is the wealth of history and beauty
here, that it did not even rate a road sign. Very spoilt we are. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We are camped at Les
Saules just outside the village. A very nice park with wonderful
owners/managers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 300 km; 6
hrs; N 47<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 28’ 36.7’’ E 001<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 27’ 02.1’’<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 16 – 10/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">An exciting day for us.
We took the bus into Blois to meet our niece who had travelled overnight from
the French Alps to spend a few days with us.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After meeting Elena at
the railway station we collected a hire car (we only have 2 seats in our
vehicle) and drove back to the camp.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We spent the afternoon
in Orleans, wandering around the older part of town and the Cathedral. We did
manage to fit in a bit of eating and a couple of drinks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 17 – 11/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After a lazy morning of
chatting with Elena and catching up with all the family news from Aus, we
visited Chambord, the largest chateaux in the Loire Valley. Apparently this is
a “must see” in the chateaux itinerary. It is certainly large and well-presented
however the gardens have yet to be restored.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 18 – 12/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A “Chateaux” day. We set
off early and made good time to Amboise. This is a former castle and set on a
dramatic setting high above the river. We then visited Leonardo Di Vinci’s
(smallish) chateaux which was within walking distance of Amboise. They had an
interesting exhibition of some of LDVs inventions and a magnificent garden with
life-size models of some of his inventions. We then drove to Chenonceau, a big
favourite with most folks. It is well presented in wonderful formal gardens and
the chateau rooms were all decorated in period style and furnished
appropriately.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The weather has not been
so good, very overcast and occasional showers. So, it is a good time for inside
tourism. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 19 – 13/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A bad weather day – it
rained all day and most of the night. Ray and Elena returned the vehicle to Blois
and after a walk around the town and some breakfast they attempted to get back
to the campground by bus. But, understanding the local timetable was challenging.
Even the local folks had trouble, so we did not feel too bad. However,
eventually we worked out that the busses were not all that frequent, so grabbed
a taxi back to the campground.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Our original plan had
been to walk to the nearby Cheverny chateaux, however the rain prevented
outside activity. So, Ray and Elena watched some films on the computer (in the
comfort of the 5-star accommodation unit!) whilst Avril did some emailing. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The campsite became
water-logged and in places started to flood – around Elena’s tent and at the
bottom of our stairs. So, Ray carried out some emergency drainage works and
managed to get rid of the worst of the water.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 20 – 14/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After saying good-bye to
Elena and packing up wet and muddy kit, for later cleaning and drying, we
headed off to La Chapelle-sur-Loire to visit Pierre and Coco, who we had met in
Botswana some years ago (Nov 2008 to be exact).<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It was wonderful to
catch up and we spent most of the day talking, eating and drinking. Still, it
was still a bit damp, so being inside was a good outcome.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 210 km; 4
hrs; N 47<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 14’ 49.7’’ E 000<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 12’ 39.7’’<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 21 – 15/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A lazy start to the day.
We walked along the Loire River into the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>nearby village and had a beer. Then we went back to Coco & Pierre’s
home for a BBQ. They made a special effort for Rays birthday (the next day)
with a delicious wine tart and one very large candle (no space for 58
candles!). More food & drink, chatting and then we looked at some of our
photos and some of their photos (much better than ours - Ray is scheming to
look for a new camera!).<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 22 – 16/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We visited the Usse
chateaux - also known as the Sleeping Beauty castle. It was very attractive
with nice gardens and lived up to the name. A welcome addition was all the
notices/explanations being in English. In the afternoon we visited the
Fontevaud Abbey. This was a real surprise, very impressive and well worth the
visit.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In the evening Pierre
& Coco took us to a very special restaurant for a wonderful meal – to
celebrate Ray’s birthday. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 23 – 17/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A very big thanks to
Pierre & Coco who were the perfect hosts and treated us like royalty. We
were very spoilt and hope to reciprocate when they visit us in Aus in 2014.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We drove to a campsite
near Verzy in the heart of the Champagne producing area. We decided to take the
long way round and miss driving through the center of Paris - Orleans, Troyes,
then to just south of Reims. A long day, but it gave us a sense of the vast
scale of French agriculture. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As we drove through
Verzy, searching for a caravan park and a supermarket and looking obviously
lost, we were approached by a very nice man, Nicolas. He had seen us driving
about and thought he could assist. He gave us directions to the campground and
the nearest supermarket. He also volunteered to show us around a vineyard and
cellar - so nice. Got to love the French nation.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped at the
municipal camping ground, Val de Vesle near the river. The land on the hills, near
the village, being too valuable for grape production to waste on camping.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ray driving; 410 km; 7
hrs; N 49<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 10’ 00.00’’ E 004<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 12’ 51.7’’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 24 – 18/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We met Nicolas at his
winery for a tour of his in-laws’ facilities (production and cellars) and an
enlightening description of the district, production techniques etc. We then
sat down to taste a bottle of the “good stuff”. It turned out that Nicolas was
a 4x4 and Toyota buff. He has a camping Toyota, rock crawler, old Celica etc,
which we looked at in his garage. He also runs tours of the local region (and
has had a lot of Aussies recently). </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><a href="http://champagne-henriet-bazin-eng.blogspot.fr/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">http://champagne-henriet-bazin-eng.blogspot.fr</span></a></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">
to see us and </span><a href="mailto:contact@oenovasion.com"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Calibri;">contact@oenovasion.com</span></a><span style="font-family: Calibri;">
to contact Nicolas. We are not experts, but his champagne seemed great to us!!<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We then drove into Reims
to have a look at the cathedral (where almost all the kings of France were
crowned) and the old town.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">On Nicolas’s advice, we
travelled through the Ardennes region along the Meuse River – green on the
Michelin map. It was a pleasant drive with some great views across mountain
villages.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We camped at Camping des
Rapids de Phades near Montherme, which had a nice grassed area and clean, but
old facilities. €11/night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Avril driving; 288 km; 6
hrs; N 49<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 52’ 55.2’’ E 004<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">0</span></sup> 46’ 32.1’’<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Day 25 – 19/7/12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We continued our drive along
the Meuse River, through interesting and touristic villages and towns and into
Belgium.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span><br />
<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">France
Summary<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Of course, we loved France. The scenery is
stunning, the villages and towns gorgeous, the food delicious (we have both put
on some serious weight!) and the people are really wonderful. They are super
helpful & friendly. We can absolutely recommend France for a holiday, we
will be back.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Areas for improvement: more
viewing/parking areas on roads where you can stop to admire the scenery. Pick
up the dog poo! It is not nice to leave it for others to step in.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0