We are now safely back in Melbourne and our African adventure is over. The
trip was a wonderful experience, totally awesome. It was a once in a lifetime
experience, the time commitment was huge and it is not something one would do
twice. Which is a pity, as it would be good to apply the lessons learnt and
“do” the trip again.
Vital statistics include:
·
According
to the Odometer, we had covered 90,968 km since we started on 5/9/2011. The GPS
shows ~ 4,000 km more. This may be due to inaccuracies in the odometer, plus we
used slightly oversized tyres for a time. Also we had hired vehicles in Morocco
and South Africa and went on tours in Chad and Tanzania. So, our overall kms
probably approached 100,000.
·
We used ~
13,022 l fuel, giving an overall
usage of 7 km/l. So, assuming our record keeping was accurate, this was not too
bad at all.
·
48 countries, including 5 in Europe.
·
Our initial thoughts were to try and visit every country on the African
continent (not the Islands).
·
We decided it was too hard to get visas for Equatorial Guinea, there was
nothing really to see there and apparently the authorities are not all that
welcoming to Overlanders.
·
We gave Nigeria a miss as we wanted to drive around Lake Chad. Also,
there were serious security issues on there. (Ray has previously visited
Nigeria on a number of occasions for work).
·
There was a coup in Guinea Bissau a few days before we were due to go
there and they closed the borders.
·
It was too hard to get into Eritrea. You needed a travel permit from the
moment you crossed the border and this was only available in the capital!?
·
Lesotho, we ran out of time!
·
We left Australia on the 14th August 2011 and arrived
back in Melbourne on 22nd May 2013.
Africa musings…
We left Australia with the thought we would have a great time, see
fantastic scenery and enjoy the game parks, which we did. What we did not
anticipate were the wonderful people we met along the way and the new friendships.
The interest in our trip, the assistance we received in all manner and people’s
generosity were stunning.
Of course the biggest thanks go our family and friends in Australia who
keep the boring administrative tasks under control.
For us it seems that Africa remains a fragile
continent. The economic/financial press are now writing glowing reports of the
continent. We are probably more pessimistic. With most African countries there remains
significant levels of corruption. The impact is most serious at the political
level: theft, fixing of contracts, siphoning off revenues, cronyism &
nepotism etc. With the police and government officials there is endemic and
continuing petty corruption/extortion.
A further serious issue is the population growth. This seems
to be at its worst in Ethiopia where we heard that the average family had 7
children. However, on most of the continent, there appeared to be large numbers
of children. Unfortunately, most of the kids will be born into a life of hunger
and poverty.
The final negative is the volume of litter in most places.
Route
We are reasonably happy with the route and timing we took. We seem to
have seen/visited most of the highlights etc.
Chatting to other overlanders, it seems that along the west side, the
route south to north is easier from an officialdom perspective, than north to
south.
At the start we could have left southern Africa a week or two earlier
and missed all the wet season in the Congos.
In hindsight, we spent way too long in Cameroon. The tourist hype does
not match the situation on the ground.
In west Africa, we were a bit worried about the wet season as we went
north and probably rushed a things a bit from Ghana to Senegal. Reading
travel blogs meant we overestimated the difficulty of driving from Guinea to Senegal.
This turned out to be quite an easy road. The non-overlander blogs seem to
think it is necessary to make the trips sound difficult and have lots of drama.
We were rushed in Southern Tanzania and Zambia. It would have been good
to have had another 6 – 8 weeks in these areas.
We used
·
T4A (Tracks for Africa) in our Garmin 60CSx. We found this map set to be
invaluable. The power cable for the unit failed towards the end of the trip.
Luckily the unit can also be supplied by a normal USB connection
·
Garmap Africa maps in the Kenwood mounted unit and a Nuvi. These were
nice to have. As commented on previously, the Kenwood unit is not all that
good. The maps performed well, in the unit. The Nuvi was OK, but its internal
power supply failed toward the end and we could not charge the unit.
·
We used maps freely available off the internet for Morocco and Tunisia.
·
We purchased a mapset for Egypt off the internet.
Bribery.
We did not start out with any plan not
to pay bribes, rather to resist to a sensible point.
We gave a couple of policemen some food in Angola.
Ray had money grabbed from his hand by the police in DRC – but this does
not count. We had to pay the officer who took our statements after the crash $
20, but apparently this is standard practice. Note: all requests for a bribe
start at $ 250 in DRC!
By our standards we did pay a bribe to a policeman in Benin (we were
100% in the wrong, it was late in the day and we did not want the hassle of
messing around for a few hours).
We did give the immigration police in Togo a can of coke to rush us
through.
Entering Burkina Faso from Mali we sat for 3 hours refusing to pay a
charge until the local post manager gave way. It would have been a lot easier
to pay, but we resisted because they annoyed us.
The paperwork fixer at Aswan in Egypt forced us to pay to have our
carnet stamped.
Normally we would plead ignorance, make the person who wanted the bribe
to repeat the request e.g. we could not hear, speak French etc at which point
the request normally fades.
Personal Security:
We tried to avoid places where tourists are targeted and to use common
sense. We also ensured we had up to date information. Probably DRC was our
worst experience.
Other places we did not go to:
·
Nigeria; others have driven through the north of Nigeria and had no
issues
·
Nth Niger. You can go to Agadez but need a full escort to go to the Air
Mountains. We saw no need to see another desert town but would have loved to
have seen the mountains, however we had tyre issues at this time plus the $$ of
course.
·
the road out of Niger to Gao (we drove 60% of the way up it),
·
Nth Mali,
·
Guinea Bissau due to the coup
·
Sth Senegal as there is an active independence movement. We did have a
couple of unpleasant experiences with rastas in Senegal.
·
Southern Algeria, we were very, very keen to do this, but the security
situation was just too bad
·
The desert/oasis route in Egypt. This was probably OK, but locals warned
us off
·
Anywhere off the main, tarmac road in South Sudan
·
Somalia – we did go to Somliland and it was safe. The religious
intolerance was a bit off-putting, particularly being criticized while walking
in the street.
·
Eastern DRC.
Theft
We had 2 towels stolen when we left them out to dry in Angola.
Our camera was stolen by a game ranger who we had allowed to ride in the
cab in CAR
A collapsible shovel and wheel brace were stolen in the market in
N’Djamena
Don’t mention Spain.
The vehicle was broken into beside the security hut in a hotel in Tobruk.
A gas lighter and torch were taken.
So overall, not too much was stolen. When it was, it was probably
because we let our guard down. We went to considerable lengths to try and make
theft difficult . Most items in the vehicle were locked and not visible from
the outside (e.g. our tray had a compartment where tryes were locked etc). This
added weight and we still wonder if all the precautions were needed.
Probably the main reason not too much was stolen is because most folks
are fundamentally honest.
Only the camera with the pictures of Dzanga Bai hurts. There were a
number of occasions when there was opportunity and nothing went missing and on
at least one occasion, a stolen item was returned.
Vehicle
We were happy with our choice of vehicle and overall set-up. Toyota has
a good range of service centers throughout Africa. CFAO in west Africa is a
stand out. Their service is excellent. Not much went wrong, so we did not
struggle for spare parts. We needed a new rim in Niger and the local
CFAO/Toyota had one in stock.
Local mechanics have a good understanding of the Toyota and so could fix
any minor niggles e.g. the fuel leaks (which seem to have resulted from the
fuel return line being pinched between the vehicle and the new rear 150 l fuel tank, probably when the new tank
was installed)
·
Suspension: the old
man emu suspension has held up all the way through the trip - very well.
However, the Firestone airbags installed by OppositeLock at Mile End in
Adelaide failed very early in the trip. We think this contributed massively to
the ongoing brakes and tyre issues we have had.
We were
disappointed when the rear axle housing cracked in Morocco and we had to have some serious work done to fix these cracks.
·
Tyres were an
ongoing hassle. Any blog reader will know our thoughts on the BFGoodrich tyres. We found
them to be very poor for our application. We had many wall failures (bubbles in
the walls) and a large number of punctures. Other tyres did not give the same
issues. Our original BFGoodrich 4x4, LT
All Terrain tyres failed after a short time in Angola. From then on we could
not buy new tyres and the 2nd hand car tyres were not really up
to the task. The Dunlop tyres held up very well, until the steel was showing
through the rubber.
We could
only buy BFGoodrich in Spain (where it was essential to get new tyres) and
again in Egypt. We finally managed to get non BFGoodrich in Kenya and South
Africa.
In
hindsight, maybe the all-terrain tread was too aggressive and caught on
embedded stones protruding from a road surface. We probably did not do
sufficient off road driving to justify an all-terrain tread.
·
Brakes; we have
used a lot of rear brake sets (at a guess 7 sets) . This maybe due to our
weight and using brakes originally designed for 3 tonnes to stop 4 tonnes! The
good news was with all the Toyota service centers, replacement parts were not
an issue.
·
ARB Diff Lockers; both front and rear. Actually, we hardly used these. Maybe it is our
driving technique, but even when both the front & back are locked, the
power still goes to the end of least resistance and so you still get some wheel
spin.
·
Diff and gear box breather extensions seemed to have worked well. We replaced the oil on
a regular basis and it never looked as though it had water in it.
·
The vehicle winch. Not used in anger. Very
rarely is there a tree where you need it. There may have been one or 2 times
when, if people had not been around to assist, it may have come in useful.
·
Vehicle
electrics: The main battery (from Battery City, marine quality) failed after 12
months and we fitted a standard Toyota battery.
Ctek D250S battery isolator and
charger. 2nd (Optima)
battery fitted. Hella driving lights.
No issues with any of these.
·
Kenwood GPS and general entertainment system. This was a big disappointment. It was
very temperamental and often disconnected from the iPod.
·
Rear parking sensors did not like the mist & rain and so gave a
false reading under these conditions
·
Reversing camera worked well. It suffered from a loose connection from time to time.
·
Tyredog tyre monitoring system worked well. The batteries lasted the advertised
12 months and Tyredog sent us replacements. They also replaced a faulty sensor.
We would recommend this system. The system saved us from driving on low
pressure or leaking tyres on a number of occasions.
·
Bonnet & head light protectors and side window windshields all well worthwhile.
They were chipped in a few places but protected the lights.
·
Internal roof console was good, but we installed way too many 12 V cigarette
lighter points. 2 would have been plenty.
·
Seat covers are essential. They need to be easily removable for cleaning!
·
Window tinting should have been darker.
·
150 litre long-range fuel tank was really not needed. The standard 90 + 90 would be
plenty. The trick is to ask around to find the people who have fuel. Often it
is not obvious. As per the comment above, the installation of the 150 l tank was
probably faulty and caused the many fuel leaks we had.
·
The fridge in the front cabin was a real
winner. However, it seemed to work best when there were some frozen items in
it. Fortunately, we had a freezer in the other fridge.
·
ARB roof rack was great
·
Custom steel tray/cupboard unit, as you would
expect, held up very well. It protected us in the DRC crash and when we slipped
in the mud in Gabon. Also it provided good protection from theft. However, the
issue of theft was probably not as great as we imagined prior to leaving Oz. We
could probably have cut out a few 100 kg by reducing this aspect
The unit is probably massively heavy and
contributed to the tyre and suspension issues. Maybe we should have used aluminium
– surprisingly, we found lots of places that could weld aluminium.
The caches that hold the under tray draw were
a weak point and failed, often. We did a modification on this in Morocco.
·
Honda generator was used in anger for the
accommodation (when we had earthing issues after the DRC crash) but was not
needed for any vehicle problems.
·
The water treatment system worked very well
– we did not get any water-borne illnesses.
·
4 x underslung tool boxes, we lost one in the DRC crash.
·
The 2
permanently wired ARB compressors in
one of the tool boxes were OK. The idea of permanently mounted, ready to use
compressors is worthwhile. But, this may not be the best configuration. The
diff locker compressor gave off a little oil every time the engine started, so
the compartment was quite messy.
·
Spares: we took
very few spares parts. Mainly because we did not know how to use them! We took
spare fuel & oil filters, which we brought back home. We purchased a spare
set of rear brake pads along the way. We had a collection of fuses, globes,
various nuts & bolts (including some threaded bar and nuts, Bars leak etc.)
We did use a few nuts and bolts, a lot of cord (to
assist others, for clothes lines). With the fuel leaks, we used a number of
Jubilee clips.
We carried a set of spanners, screw drivers, pliers
etc. These were needed as a lot of the local mechanics have very limited tools.
·
Trayon camping unit was overall good. We were
fortunate that the weather only forced us to spend time in the unit on 2 or 3
occasions. We spent most of the time outside.
·
The
electrics: Ctek M300 battery charger,
1,000 W inverter, marine quality circuit breaker panel (not fuses), 120 amp hr deep cycle battery (red
River ??) all worked well. The only issue we had was
with the earthing connection. It took some time to work out why the batteries
were not holding charge, but it turned out to be the earthing. Maybe the
Inverter was overkill - we could have done with a lot smaller unit.
·
The additional hold down points we
installed to keep the Trayon unit in position were successful, and necessary.
The unit did not move substantially on the tray.
·
We did
not really use the accommodation unit sound system as we had iPods, radio,
speakers etc)
·
Secure
compartment with safe worked well.
·
The
canvas did not hold up all that well and remains very hard/ impossible to pin
down when wet.
·
The water
storage system is not user friendly at all. The inlet is way too small and hard
to put a hose in. The outlet is plastic and the design means it needs to be
bent every time it is used and so it failed. This necessitated moving the whole
accommodation unit to get at the connection and mend it.
·
The
chemical toilet was not commissioned! We could have used the space for other
items. Generally we camped at places with a toilet. For blokes, it is not that
hard to find a place for some “incidental stops”
·
Solar
panels - unfortunately, we seemed to have purchased panels that need direct
sunlight to perform well. We should have researched this a bit better before we
started.
·
Camping
Equipment: we were disappointed with some of the camping equipment, in
particular the Colman branded stuff was generally corroded by the end of the
trip (including the “Stainless steel” cutlery) and we left most of it in Arica
We took 4 x cutlery & (melamine) plates. That
was heaps. We very rarely used more than 2.
We took good, heavy, non-stick, kitchen pots &
pans and this turned out to be a blessing. It made cooking easy and washing up
less of a mess.
·
Directors
camping chairs. Colman, corroded and the side table on one chair broke
·
Dual fuel
stoves (Colman fuel & unleaded petrol). These performed OK, but by the end
of the trip they failed to light properly and gave off a lot of carbon/smoke
Accommodation
The nightly stops are recorded in our blog. We were probably a bit more
cautious than most other overlanders who prefer to “wild camping”. Mostly we
found places with facilities to shower; from a brothel (?) in Angola to luxury
camping in Marrakech. However, we did wild camp quite often and
enjoyed the experience.
We found guide books very unhelpful and struggle to recall an occasion
where we got decent accommodation from them.
To find accommodation we read other peoples blogs, chatted to local
folks, put other overlanders through an intense grilling (to see where they had
stayed), asked at a camp ground if they could recommend a place further on,
asked the police for help etc. all the seemed to work quite well.
Water
As stated above, our water purification system worked very well.
Typically we filled up our, 100l,
tank at camp grounds. But along the way we filled up from wells and rivers.
Food
Along west Africa, there was only a small selection of produce. Normally
we purchased fruit & veg from the local markets. Generally, these were not
on the main roads, but tucked away, out of sight in a village. There is usually
a market or maybe just a few stalls in most villages. We would ask around to
find the right spot.
We did not buy much meat along the way. We filled up the freezers in RSA
and then with minced meat in Cameroon and that was about all. Why, well
generally the butchers do not look all that clean and the meat is covered with
flies. Also we could not identify a lot of the wild meat offered at the side of
the road. And, we did not want to encourage poaching.
We also keep a good selection of tinned and dried food, which we
replenished when we got to the main cities.